I think I’ve located a bottleneck FW15?

TPendagast

LawnSite Fanatic
I posted the last one while you were posting this, I’ll look at the Scag. The problem with long threads is they start to go everywhere. I’m not mowing through mud leaving 3” deep ruts, I’m just looking for a slightly lighter footprint because of the many borderline too soft properties where I can get the Deere but greatly risk damage and getting stuck in a surprise mucky spot.
That’s why I suggested the walk behind
It takes the rider off the machine for 1
2 it’s lighter in general
3 it’s got about the same tires so better floatation
Plus if your normal machine is down you have a productive back up

the little machines don’t have enough horsepower for wet lush grass
Otherwise the turf master 30 would be a much better machine

when you throttle down you’re loosing some horsepower To slow the blade tip speed down

so 17 hp becomes more like 12
On those little machines 5hp becomes 3 and 5/6 wasn’t enough to begin with

this is why a bigger machine, even if it’s only a 32 or 36 is so much better than the 30
It’s all in the engine, tranny and tires

the 30s are nice because almost any new hire can use one with minimal training
They are more productive than 21s by far and they don’t weigh much
But they’re underpowered for anything more than cutting 1/3 of the grass blade off

the mistake most make with this is thinking “I cut at 3””
And just doing it when the grass is 6” tall
That machine does not have the performance for that
You need to cut it at 4”
Wait til the growth and rain slows down in a few weeks to a month
Then drop it back down

but the stubborn are like no, I cut at 2.5” to
3” and if this machine can’t do that in one pass with perfect results in all conditions , it’s a POS snd I want my money back because I was lied to!

when I first started this profession
You have bunton, ransomes/bobcat , yazoo/keys and a few others that were all literally the same mower with different colors
I make those jokes now about “pick a color” but no joke, back then it was gospel truth
If they were different , I’m ignorant to how.
Most of them came with 10.5 to 12hp engines that were single cylinder and ran with the efficiency of a 1940s water pump
The three wheel riders had 18-20 hp on 61-72” decks

all this and we we’re cutting the same grass with the same weather conditions you have today
So trust me when I say getting it done is more based on knowledge and experience than it is on the machine.
Do the advancements help? Sure
But they don’t replace the know how
 

Crazy 4 grass

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Minnesota
Quite serious.
I've never heard the term "bottleneck" used to describe a mower.

Unless it's not being used to describe a mower.
In that case, I still don't understand the thread title. ;)
Think traffic. A bottle neck creates a ripple effect of getting slowed down and behind schedule. Rainy weather is creating a bottleneck in his mowing schedule, which he is trying to find a possible solution for with buying a fw15.
 

douglee25

LawnSite Senior Member
Location
TX
Bottle neck is a restriction to flow. It’s the point in the bottle that determines the overall output. Changing the size of the neck changes the flow. A bottle neck in business is the exact same. Changing it, changes the flow or output of work that you can produce. Could be equipment, could be a process

Bottlenecks can usually be attributed to 3 things (3m's) - Man, Method (process), or Machine.
 

JLH52

LawnSite Senior Member
I've read the whole thread, BTW I only cut my own 10 acres but like others the rain has got me thigh deep in overgrown Bahia.

My observation from this thread is that many give their suggestions about how to start, run and grow a lawn care business. When to start and stop, how many days to work per week, side jobs, etc.

What I can't understand is how so many have enough extra time to read and post on this forum during the day and talk about mowing instead of actually out getting it done.

Reminds me of the guys with the big hats, big belt buckle, cowboy boots but no horse.
 

OakNut

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Pittsburgh PA
I've read the whole thread, BTW I only cut my own 10 acres but like others the rain has got me thigh deep in overgrown Bahia.

My observation from this thread is that many give their suggestions about how to start, run and grow a lawn care business. When to start and stop, how many days to work per week, side jobs, etc.

What I can't understand is how so many have enough extra time to read and post on this forum during the day and talk about mowing instead of actually out getting it done.

Reminds me of the guys with the big hats, big belt buckle, cowboy boots but no horse.

When it's your show, you work when you want to work!
:)

Sitting in the shade, catching some AC goodness, and checking out what all the other non-working pros on Lawnsite have to say before I start the next job!
 

Freaky Fido

LawnSite Bronze Member
Location
Northeast USA
@Hurryupelectric you know you can do this with your stander for deck scraping and blade changes, right? Do half and then move to the other side. Helps if you're not on the side of the road of course. If I am I'll just reach under the best I can from the curb side. Much easier with my TT.
IMG_20210806_142507226.jpg
IMG_20210806_143257768.jpg
 

OakNut

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Pittsburgh PA
With my 36" walk behind, I hate the ramp method. Doesn't raise it up enough and moving to each side is a hassle.
I tip it back and prop up the front with a cat litter bucket under the deck edge!
 

Freaky Fido

LawnSite Bronze Member
Location
Northeast USA
With my 36" walk behind, I hate the ramp method. Doesn't raise it up enough and moving to each side is a hassle.
I tip it back and prop up the front with a cat litter bucket under the deck edge!
Yeah easy enough to tip a walk behind back. I use an axle stand sometimes too. Mine is actually resting on the sulky mount and works equally well with the sulky attached. I haven't used it all season - trying to lose some chub. :)
 
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