Image And Trimec Classic Mix

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by tlds, Sep 25, 2013.

  1. tlds

    tlds LawnSite Member
    Messages: 12

    Is it safe to mix Image with Trimec Classic?

    I'm targeting sand burr in Bermuda grass but also want to address the broadleaf weeds that are still active.

    Going a little further, and after researching remedies for sand burr, I would also like to add pre-emergent and urea to the mix. If this is possible, it would give my client a better value as well as address winter weeds.

    The label on Image states that it can be tank mixed with other post emergent herbicides that aren't labeled for grassy weeds. It also states that it can be mixed with pre emergents and urea.

    If this is all possible, would everything be mixed at label rate or reduced?

    Or, is there a better solution that someone could suggest?

    The client doesn't want to wait for the sand burr to die out this season as our growing season is a bit extended.

    Thanks for any help and advice.
  2. Turf Dawg

    Turf Dawg LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,719

    Why not Celcius? It will hit most broadleaf weeds and will really stun the Sandburs. This time of year the Sandburs are going to be hard to kill anyway this close to the end of their cycle. Your area is different than mine, but I have had very good results using Prodiamine in early March with medium rate of Celcius then the same thing in June.
  3. tlds

    tlds LawnSite Member
    Messages: 12

    Thank you for the reply Turf Dawg.

    Please forgive my ignorance and inexperience of my next question.

    I've been wanting to use Celsius but am a bit confused by the label directions.

    Most of my career is spraying homes and yards for insects. I've only been spraying turf and right of ways for weeds for about a year. I have two truck mounted sprayers and my general calibrated rate for most products i spray is around 2 to 2 1/2 gallons per 1000.

    The label of Celsius states to use a max of 60 gallons per acre. And along with that, it states that a larger droplet size is optimal. However, even at 20 psi and a large droplet, that is a bit difficult with my truck sprayer and hand held gun.

    I called Bayer and they said my results will be diminished if I add more water to my mix even though I would still be applying the 2.4 grams per 1000.

    I'm not asking anyone to tell me something that goes against the label as it does say to use 2.4 grams per 1000. So will adding enough water to suit my calibration speed while still applying 2.4 grams per 1000 really diminish my results that much?

    Honestly, I really didn't want to ask this question and do hope no one slams me for my inexperience. I'm just trying to learn.

    Thanks for any help.
  4. countryclublawnllc

    countryclublawnllc LawnSite Member
    Messages: 153

    Reason for lighter water rates are so it will stay on the leaf surface where it will work the best.

  5. tlds

    tlds LawnSite Member
    Messages: 12

    Thanks for the replies.

    It gave me incentive to get out and figure this out. I knew it was possible and I just didn't have something right. I got a new wand with the right tips that I can regulate to any gpm and gpa I need for these highly concentrated chemicals.

    Thanks again.
  6. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,124

    I find that the sweet spot for weed applications is between 20-40 gallons per acre. When going after hard to kill weeds observe the Bayer recommendations concerning surfactants/adjuvants. Celsius has been a very good product for my situation. However, it has been used under certain parameters. The concept being make as much of that 2.4 grams per 1000 sq ft stick to the target weeds and penetrate into those weeds. High or low volumes applied as widely scattered large droplets do not work the same as up to 60 gallons per acre applied as closely spaced droplets. This is for fungicides, but I think it also applies to herbicide applications. I like the AI tips on either a single nozzle wand or small boom for residential turf applications. It is a good compromise between coverage and drift control.
  7. Turf Dawg

    Turf Dawg LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,719

    I have better luck spraying with a AI flat fan or my PG. I truely think you get way better results with fan sprays for contact herbicides. I like the Chemlawn/Tee Jet gun for pre's, ferts and insect but not contact herbicides.
  8. foreplease

    foreplease LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,062

    I think you will be gald once you do get your calibrated spray volume down. You will find there are turf chemicals that go down at even lighter rates than Celcius. 1 oz per acre is lowest I have applied but recently saw greendoctor mention one at 1/2 oz per acre. You simply cannot afford mistakes with those kinds of concentrates. Good luck. Sounds like you are on the right track.

    Hang on to that other wand. Urea probably will not flow at the lower spray volume.
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2013
  9. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,124

    There's a couple heavily used in warm season turf. Metsulfuron Methyl(Manor, Mansion) 1/4-1/2 oz per acre. Trifloxysulfuron Sodium(Monument) 10-15 grams per acre not gallon. I know gulfjoe made up a mix of 15 grams Monument and 2.4 oz Celsius for application to bermuda for removal of crabgrass as well as most broadleaf weeds.
  10. tlds

    tlds LawnSite Member
    Messages: 12

    Thanks for all the replies and advice. I do like the fan spray for this and am starting to understand the higher concentration chemicals a little better.

    Thanks again.

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