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Industrial tires

Discussion in 'Tractors' started by Woodland, Mar 1, 2007.

  1. Woodland

    Woodland LawnSite Member
    from Maine
    Messages: 207

    I'm planning the purchase of a new tractor this spring, 30 - 35 hp range. I'll be using it mostly for loading mulch, loam, etc at the yard but will also use it for onsite work when needed. I definetely wont be getting turf tires, but I was wondering if there would be any benefit to industrials over regular ag tires. The are "the best of both worlds" but we all know that isn't exaclty true! How much traction loss over the ags would I be giving up as opposed to damage reduction with the turf?

    Also, the dealer I'm looking at fills the tires at no charge. What are the pros/cons to filled tires?
  2. start2finish

    start2finish LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 497

    filled with what? alot of people fill the rear tires with water and antifreeze(not exactly, but a methonal blend) this is for ballast when using a loader generally.

    as for the R4 tires, industrial, they do not do well in mud or on slopes, but for general all around use they are fine, you should get more wear out of them on paved surfaces. We run these are are okay with it, they also have a wider stance and in my opinion make kubotas look larger. not sure of the other brands

    the ag tires will get awesome traction, but will mark turf more because of the deeper lugs. they will work on turf if the ground is not wet
  3. hossmp

    hossmp LawnSite Member
    Messages: 100

    Hello, Just wanted to add my opinion on this. I am new to landscaping but grew up on a farm and still work there often. The R4 tire is the one to use if you are trying to multi-task and you arent interested in the turf tire. The turf tire will do alright in most conditions but if you are doing alot of loader work off the turf you may want the r4 industrial tire. The AG tires will not be gentle at all on turf. As for filling the tires that has gone out of favor with alot of the larger equipment. We are running two of the largest JD machines a 8000 series and a 9000 series and they would usually have "wet" tires but instead they are equiped with cast weight. Its alot more money but in the long run its alot better since you can change your weight easily. The material used to fill the tires is typically calcium chloride. I would strongly recomend a ballast box. They can be had new for just over 200 dollars and you can take them off when you want the tractor to be lighter and you can adjust the weight. I just picked one up for my compact and love it over the previously filled tires. Best of luck to you
  4. 7 IRON

    7 IRON LawnSite Member
    from VT
    Messages: 227

    About 85% Of The John Deere Compact Tractors I Sell Have R-4 Tires,Followed By Turf,Then Ag.Usually R-4's Are Thicker Ply Tire Also.
  5. oleblue

    oleblue LawnSite Member
    Messages: 13

    I decided to put industrial tires on my New Holand 1920 (32hp) Each tire is filled with calcium. I have not got stuck yet. There is way less turf and ground damage then the double long bar AG tires. I use my tractor for the same purposes as you do. I run on alot of Blacktop in the spring and have found that the industrial tire wears much better. I have 500+ hours on them now and I antcipate they will get me through the 2007 season fine
  6. lawnspecialties

    lawnspecialties LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,524

    I've had both turf and R4 industrials. From now on, I'll always get the R4s. The only time I've ever done any damage to a yard is when it was very wet and that damage was minimal. I think turf tires can do more damage sometimes because they tend to slip and spin way more often.

    For what you're doing, I'd get the industrial tires but make absolutely sure the tractor has both two and four wheel drive. 4WD is just as important to keeping damage down as is your tire choice.:)
  7. DiyDave

    DiyDave LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,695

    The problem with calcium filled tires is that the calcium is corrosive to the rim and the brass core of the valve stem. It also is quite an effective herbicide, if you get a bad leak on the lawn. Better would be methanol, as it is not as toxic as antifreeze. Best is cast segmented weights, which can be removed if needed. As far as tread style, for traction, ag longbar/longbar are best then longbar/shortbar then R4, then turf. Inverse for turf damage.

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