Is my Kohler Siezed??? Need Help!

Discussion in 'Mechanic and Repair' started by stonedawg, Jul 28, 2006.

  1. stonedawg

    stonedawg LawnSite Member
    Messages: 26

    Kohler may be siezed!!
    Posted yesterday about my mower just quitting on me. After working on it all afternoon yesterday, I replaced a blown fuse, checked all electrical and still, when I turn the key, the flywheel moves about a 1/2 inch. The starter is engaging. Could my motor be siezed up? I find it hard to believe because it only has 300 hrs on it and it quit on me with no warning whatsoever while I was mowing. No noise, it was like the saftey cutoff cut the engine off. It made no noise, it just shut off. If it siezed, wouldn't their be some smoke, banging, or something? Sorry this is so long? Thanks so much for your opinions!!
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  2. Jman

    Jman LawnSite Member
    Messages: 217

    Can you roll the engine over by hand? If not, pull the spark plugs out and try it again. If you can't roll it over by hand something is siezed, either in the engine, or the clutch or something driven by the engine.
  3. stonedawg

    stonedawg LawnSite Member
    Messages: 26

    Can turn it by hand with plugs out. Very tuff to do. It quit in mid mow, could the pressure from the pumps and blade engaged at time of failure be cause too much pressure to start??
  4. Restrorob

    Restrorob LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 11,029

    Remove all the belts off the crankshaft then check again, I didn't see if this unit has electric pto or not but I have seen clutch bearings seize and shut a unit down.
    Shutting down in mid mow I believe would have nothing to do with your problem now.
  5. Jim@MilkyWay

    Jim@MilkyWay LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 472

    How tough is it?
    When you say 'It's tough to do" can you hear or feel anything, from simply spinning the engine by hand, that would make you think metal is rubbing hard against metal inside engine? Because at normal engine operating speed, this would cause high friction and subsequent seizing due to heat build up, which can be _very_ rapid.
    I think engine seizing is _always_ caused by excessive heat, regardless of the cause.
    Were YOU actually the operator when engine shut down? If you have sufficient experience with this particular machine then I should think that you would have noticed, when you first lost power, if engine stopped spinning _very_ quickly compared to what you observe as "normal" for this engine. If you did not notice this, then engine probably was not seizing.
  6. Jim@MilkyWay

    Jim@MilkyWay LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 472

    that is, unless something breaks, of course.
  7. Splicer

    Splicer LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 992

    Engine seizing is caused by lack of lubrication...or as has been stated previously...if something breaks...usually caused by lack of lubrication...If the motor turns over by hand and 'feels' rough (which IS different from stiff) you have a rebuild on your hands...if it turns freely with the plugs removed but very hard to impossible with the plugs installed chances are the valve timing slipped...
  8. khouse

    khouse LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,465

    I just repaired a command 27 where the magnets under the flywheel flew off. It chewed up the stator and was grinding a lot. I bet that it could have happened to you.
  9. Jim@MilkyWay

    Jim@MilkyWay LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 472

    Have you ever watched those TV infomercials where they run their "friction reducing" product, like Dura Lube Advanced Formula in the engine, then drain out all the oil and run the engine for half an hour with no "lubrication" in it?
    The surface coating left behind by those products still lubricate the engine. Once the coating wears away, then friction again rears it's ugly head and your engine, if operated after that point will toast it'self in short order. Toast is quite literal.
    If you loose lubricant or coolant, or if you, just for giggles tried to run your engine in a pure oxygen atmosphere, and if you had temp sensors attached to any engine in the right place to monitor cylinder-wall temp, then you will find, I believe without exception, that the temp would ramp up _QUICKLY_ just before engine seized. The spike/max temp probably would occur just after it seized, due to thermal inertia. Soo,, regardless of why engine heats, it will, if not controlled lock 'er up.
  10. thecrankshaft

    thecrankshaft LawnSite Member
    Messages: 172

    So what would be the exception to seizing if the end cause wasn't heat?

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