Just gly’d this so i can start over with better seed!

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Garrett1234

LawnSite Senior Member
You have automatic irrigation ? There's no excuse then, it has to look good.
(it will)
Yes sir. Water will be set for three times a day to start with. Then taper off as the weeks pass. That was a large install project a couple years back. Then a few months ago updated all the pump and vfd set up. Waters a rare commodity these days. And since I’m blessed to have great water availability, I wanted to max my opportunities to use it. And with property, bare soil and weeds are more difficult to take care of than turf in my book. So I plan to keep expanding. Next project is installing some SIME HIDRA’s for a larger area I’ll be planting in the future. I just love grass/turf. I think almost all of us on this site do right. I learn something new everyday on this site.
 

RigglePLC

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Grand Rapids MI
My suggestion. I would use regular(with slow release), fertilizer for the "grow-in" phase at week three and six. No need for half-rate starter fertilizer. Starter is costly, and you need the full-rate slow-release nitrogen more than the phosphorus and quick-release nitrogen. Cut back when the new grass starts to get too tall between mowings.
Be sure to mow it when it gets to two inches tall. That helps it to spread sideways. Mowing also helps the tiny, short, bluegrass sprouts--as they compete with ryegrass--they need plenty of sunlight as long as soil is moist.

Plant a sample of seed in a coffee cup on your desk--just so you can watch it closely. Judging by my experience, three weeks ago--perennial rye should germinate and grow to a half-inch tall in five days. Save a sample of the seed so you can complain to the seed company, if it is not satisfactory. Be sure the seed is not too old. The germination testing date should be less than 6 months before now. Even if it is stored under cool dry conditions (not outside), it should still lose a few percent per month in germination rate. Check the soil as you seed. You are trying to sow about 10 to 20 seeds per square inch. See this table:
https://www.dlfpickseed.ca/professional-turf/resources/seeding-specs

Lots of work. You must be exhausted. Still--get pictures.
 
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Garrett1234

LawnSite Senior Member
Hi riggle. Great information. I’m not doing rye however this time, tttf and the kbg. I did notice mowing in my March seeding test seemed to (as you mentioned) expand sideways or “fill in”. growth. I was thinking it was due to the slow germ time of the kbg and possibly that starting to fill in / grow. I actually think i lower below 2” due to wanting the sun and air exposure for the kbg. One thing I realized is if you don’t have kbg to start with in your blend, , it never seems to have a fighting chance to germ. It’s either Choked out or can’t even get started. That’s why I like a decent kbg percentage to start with
 

phasthound

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Mt. Laurel, NJ
Thank you. I’ve read that mentioned many times on this site. I guess I could google it. However what do you like so much about it?
It's an Enhanced Efficiency Fertilizer with Organic Matter. Provides a deep long lasting green for up to 13 weeks. Available at SiteOne.
 

RigglePLC

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Grand Rapids MI
Opinions vary. This paragraph from Guelph University in Canada, suggests overseeding at twice the usual rate.

Overseeding and Timing

Overseeding is a method of thickening up a lawn that has become thin or damaged by insects, diseases, weeds, drought, excessive traffic or other types of damage. To ensure success, add compost, peat or topsoil before overseeding. Overseed at double the seeding rate for establishing a new lawn. The best time to overseed a lawn is in the fall (mid-August to mid-September). Keep the overseeded area moist by watering several times a day. One week after seeding, reduce watering to twice a day until seedlings are established.

http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/crops/facts/08-017.htm
 
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Garrett1234

LawnSite Senior Member
The darn seed isn’t arriving until tomorrow. Taking forever! However I’m quite sure the suggested bag rate is approx 5lbs. I’m going double that. I can’t measure my exact square footage without buying a fancy app. However last measured touch under 12k (to best of my ability). And I’m dropping 125 pounds total seed (25#) being kbg. So feel good about the quantity.....at least I think I do. I like OVER seeding. I don’t mean over-seeding. I mean OVER seeding. I find seed is RELATIVELY inexpensive compared to trying to fix a sparse lawn with aeration / fert / more seed later in an over seeding/ labor. Pay an extra couple hundred now for heavy seed rate and save in the long run. Learned through experience and regret!
 
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