is it synthetic oil? i've never seen it for sale anywhere. i use regular oil for the first 100hrs. after the first 100hrs i use a full synthetic oil like mobil 1-10w30 or something. synthetics hold up to heat way better than regular oils.

 

i go 250hr with out oil change :waving:

 

Have heard the kawi oil was very expensive. If so, it wouldn't take long before the cost of a new engine would have been spent using their oil.

 

is it synthetic oil? i've never seen it for sale anywhere. i use regular oil for the first 100hrs. after the first 100hrs i use a full synthetic oil like mobil 1-10w30 or something. synthetics hold up to heat way better than regular oils.

Ya it's synthetic and I can't ever find it anywhere except my dealer. I used penzoil sae30 once and I'm Prety sure it was synthetic but my dealer found out about it and is apparently a big no no. I'm not sure what to think about it
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I sell it for 4.99 a quart, its been amazing for us, and really affordable compared to amsoil or royal purple. I have a couple oil freak customers that do regular oil tests, and they say it works better than anything they run
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My dealer gives me honda power equip. oil. Thats all they sell. I am thinking of switching to synthetic like I use in my truck after break-in. My 2010 hustler only has 49 hours on it so far...

 

amsoil is seriously good oil. however, i have not a doubt that the brand oil is very good. would have to compare specs to really now.

 

Mobil One for engine and hydro pumps works great.

 

I use Pennzoil in my Kaw.

 

Kawasaki 30 weight oil is made by the Opti-2 Co. It would great if someone sent the oil in for analysis to see if it is in fact extra high in anti wear additives like ZDDP etc. Mobil 1 15w-50 did in the past have higher levels of ZDDP than the other grades followed by their High Mileage specific synthetic oils.

I typically use diesel rated synthetic oils in my mowers 5w-40 for easier cold cranking and less stat up wear which is a big factor. Not a big fan of extended drain intervals on mowers. The Kawasaki dip stick threaded area is area that is prone to contamination. At least on my Kawi engines. Employees checking oil could probably care less if junk gets knocked down the tube.

Lots of oil talk and splitting of hairs of this stuff at bobistheoilguy.com

 

we have used the opti oil for break in periods on ingines to extend the warranties before. dont know if it did anythign really. but, we lov ethe opti 2 cycle mix oil with great results.

 

Have heard numerous reports of kawi 17 and 19 hp engines having problems with premature engine failures. Am wondering if part of the problem is from overheating which a higher quality oil would remedy.

 

I use regular old Penzoil 10w30 with ZERO failures.

 

I use regular old Penzoil 10w30 with ZERO failures.

Same here. Wonder if certain families of engines are more troublesome than others.

 

Have heard numerous reports of kawi 17 and 19 hp engines having problems with premature engine failures. Am wondering if part of the problem is from overheating which a higher quality oil would remedy.

that would be us, have pics on here somewhere of a rod blowing the side of the engine out. we have replaced 3 of the 17hp at 1000hrs of less. most around 800 hrs. most seems to be air cleaning issues, poor seals on the filters. that, and cheap oil. we have history with those engines, and trying to remedy the issue to no avail. it is the class of engine that had issues

 

that would be us, have pics on here somewhere of a rod blowing the side of the engine out. we have replaced 3 of the 17hp at 1000hrs of less. most around 800 hrs. most seems to be air cleaning issues, poor seals on the filters. that, and cheap oil. we have history with those engines, and trying to remedy the issue to no avail. it is the class of engine that had issues

Interesting you mentioned the problem with seals on the air filters. Was getting ready to install a new air filter on my 17 hp. Took the old one off and the seal was broken and about 1/4th of it was loose and in the throat of the carb. Not good!! Problem with that is you don't know there is a problem until you take the filter off.

My 17 does not use oil but I can regularly smell oil in the exhaust at startup. Am thinking this series of engine is not of the same calibre as the older 19-25's.

 

that would be us, have pics on here somewhere of a rod blowing the side of the engine out. we have replaced 3 of the 17hp at 1000hrs of less. most around 800 hrs. most seems to be air cleaning issues, poor seals on the filters. that, and cheap oil. we have history with those engines, and trying to remedy the issue to no avail. it is the class of engine that had issues

So did using Amsoil help?

 

Have heard numerous reports of kawi 17 and 19 hp engines having problems with premature engine failures. Am wondering if part of the problem is from overheating which a higher quality oil would remedy.

Overheating is caused by lack of airflow.

After 100 hours of operation your oil filter is plugged and your pump is killing itself.

The key to long engine life is change the oil and filter often.

Clean your engine shrouds daily.

 

Overheating is caused by lack of airflow.

After 100 hours of operation your oil filter is plugged and your pump is killing itself.

The key to long engine life is change the oil and filter often.

Clean your engine shrouds daily.

Jackal, in no way am I disputing your post. Kawi's manuals say 200 hours is the service interval on the filter - or at least they used to. Richard Martin had a thread about oil longevity. He had his tested and posted the results. Maybe he will chime in and refer us to that thread.

Am guessing very few folks clean their engine shrouds daily, most are lucky to get them cleaned once per year.

I would tend to agree with Grassman that the problems mostly lie with a certain family of engines. My 17 developed a small oil leak at the top of the engine that was hardly noticeable until the shroud was removed. Under the cover a lot of dirt had built up. Fortunately, I rarely use that mower for more than 10-15 minutes at a time so overheating did not become an issue.

Not saying these are bad engines but are less forgiving than others.

 

After 100 hours of operation your oil filter is plugged and your pump is killing itself.

The key to long engine life is change the oil and filter often.

Why would the oil filter be plugged at 100 hours?

Say I were to only change the filter at 200 hours or once a year, whichever occurs first. Is there some consequence to doing that?

 

Why would the oil filter be plugged at 100 hours?

Say I were to only change the filter at 200 hours or once a year, whichever occurs first. Is there some consequence to doing that?

Have a 23 kawi with 4400+ hours. Oil filter changed every 200 hours. Oil is changed more often.

 

Why would the oil filter be plugged at 100 hours?

Say I were to only change the filter at 200 hours or once a year, whichever occurs first. Is there some consequence to doing that?

As the pores in the filter fill up with contaminats they restrict the flow of oil thru the filter.

One of two things will happen. Blow out which allows the contaminats to flow thru the engine or complete restriction which reduces oil pressure. Neither is healthy.

 

Have a 23 kawi with 4400+ hours. Oil filter changed every 200 hours. Oil is changed more often.[/QUOT

I have an 03 Deere with 3500 on it and it still runs great. Oil and filter changed every 80 to 90 hrs.

 

As the pores in the filter fill up with contaminats they restrict the flow of oil thru the filter.

I know what happens. I need to know why it happens at such low hours? Why do virtually all of the factories recommend a 200 hour filter change interval?

 

Where is the majority of the dirt inside the motor?

It should be in the filter.

Most engine mfg recomend the first oil and filter change at 5 to 10 hrs to get rid of contaminates.

A filter might last 200 hrs but that doesen't mean its doing anything. It can only hold so much dirt.

I can't believe you put a dirty filter back on when you change the oil.