Kawasaki FH580V V-twin RPM drops when PTO engaged

OP
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ComfortControl DD

LawnSite Member
I would think your spark plugs should be more then just hand tight ...
Or did i just miss something in ur vid when u loosened them with a ratchet?

I had just hand tight the spark plugs for the video.

I will have new spark plugs tomorrow and I will gap them at 0.030 inches per service manual. If the new plugs don't fix the issue I'll make a new video and this time I will use a ratchet.

If the plug isn't igniting shouldn't the plug be wet? Where is the gas going if the plug isn't firing?

I have the engine service manual thanks to one of the members posting it on this thread.

I see on page 174 of 181 the resistance values. Can't I just test the ohm value with the coil on the machine providing the coil isn't positioned on the magnetic to the flywheel and I remove the kill wire from the coil? Just trying to remove the least amount possible since afraid a bolt might break since the engine has never been taken apart.

Again if plug isn't igniting where is the gas going?
 

fastline

LawnSite Member
This right here is when I would be using an inductive spark tester on the engine!!!!!! They are like 5 bucks. You need to nail down the spark issue. I don't know where you live but seems odd to have to 'order' spark plugs.

Anywho, about the fuel thing. If engine has good compression, it will bring in fuel as vapor and yes, it would expel unburned fuel out the exhaust. It will also wash down the cylinders and contaminate the oil eventually thus why I recommended an oil change when things get resolved.

The reason for rinsing down the cylinder walls is combustion gases actually push through the ring lands in the pistons to help the rings seal. When combustion does not occur, the rings will leak by a bit. You can bet on it. Hell, there is a split in every ring anyway so impossible to be sealed.

If you are actually losing compression through a valve or compression release issue, then you may not be fueling that cylinder!!! The spark tester would be a huge plus right now! Go find one or borrow one. Hell, even a timing light will have an inductive pickup and you can watch that light.
 

fastline

LawnSite Member
I see on page 174 of 181 the resistance values. Can't I just test the ohm value with the coil on the machine providing the coil isn't positioned on the magnetic to the flywheel and I remove the kill wire from the coil? Just trying to remove the least amount possible since afraid a bolt might break since the engine has never been taken apart.

You don't need to remove the coils to test them as long as you can access the leads. Sometimes you can find where the primary wires go and just test elsewhere. You will have to make the call.

Just FIY, very typical for coils to "meter test" fine, but not be any good because heat and current change the way they act. This is why actual firing tests usually follow a pass with the DMM. Your coil is doing "something" and I am not entirely sure it is spark but the ignition side must be proved out before proceeding.
 
OP
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ComfortControl DD

LawnSite Member
I suggest that verifying a good compression would be on the to do list before changing a coil.
low compression equals no firing on cylinder...even if you had a good spark

I have 125 psi in each cylinder. The service manual states a MINIMUM of 57 psi. So I think 125 psi is great.


Tomorrow I will get new RCJ8Y spark plugs, gap them at 0.030 inches per service manual and I'll use Inline Ignition Tool to verify the coil is working while I engage and dis-engage PTO.

I will also remove the air filter assembly from the carb that fastline recommended and hit the PTO and see if there is any change at all.

Any other ideas?
 

fastline

LawnSite Member
Obviously if the ignition work solves the issue, don't proceed further. The electrode rod inside a sparkplug can and do crack. If close enough, they can still sort of work. That could explain some of your odd experiences.
 

ed2hess

LawnSite Fanatic
Stop messing around put 2 new coils in.... cross ref plugs don't new exact brand.
The two(2) auto parts stores in my town only had 1 plug in stock. I ordered the plugs at O'Reilly Auto. When I go to pickup plugs I get this inductive spark tester

Thanks fastline for explaining the fuel.
They can cross reference to another brand
I have 125 psi in each cylinder. The service manual states a MINIMUM of 57 psi. So I think 125 psi is great.


Tomorrow I will get new RCJ8Y spark plugs, gap them at 0.030 inches per service manual and I'll use Inline Ignition Tool to verify the coil is working while I engage and dis-engage PTO.

I will also remove the air filter assembly from the carb that fastline recommended and hit the PTO and see if there is any change at all.

Any other ideas?
Initiating PTO should NOT affect spark ....coil are bad no way to ohm test them replace and if still a problem deal with it. I
 

flintknapper

LawnSite Senior Member
Stop messing around put 2 new coils in.... cross ref plugs don't new exact brand.

They can cross reference to another brand

Initiating PTO should NOT affect spark ....coil are bad no way to ohm test them replace and if still a problem deal with it. I


^^^^^

Please listen to this. It is the voice of experience.

IF your coils have never been changed and the hours on your 'KAW' are 500+ its time. I don't care how they ohm out.

KAW coils are famous for heat soaking *especially when people don't let the engine idle/cool a bit before shutting it down*. You can almost predict when they will become weak or fail.
 
OP
C

ComfortControl DD

LawnSite Member
^^^^^

Please listen to this. It is the voice of experience.

IF your coils have never been changed and the hours on your 'KAW' are 500+ its time. I don't care how they ohm out.

KAW coils are famous for heat soaking *especially when people don't let the engine idle/cool a bit before shutting it down*. You can almost predict when they will become weak or fail.

I just want to thank everyone that provided input to my problem. The issue was the coil. Now that I have installed the new coil, when I turn the PTO on to engage the blades I get instant peak RPM for the blades turning just like when I bought the mower years ago.

I changed the oil and filter as recommended.

Had I owned a ignition spark tester that cost me $8 I could of saved myself hours of time. Although I am mechanically inclined I mistakenly did not recognize a twin cylinder engine would have 2 separate coils. I assumed since the engine was running the coil must be good. I also didn't know how well and engine can run only on one cylinder. I never noticed a wet spark plug for the cylinder with the dead coil so the gas must of burnt out going out the exhaust. Had a seen a soak plug I would of focused on the coil and spark plug.

Thank you all again and I hope this thread can help others that are neophytes like myself.

The people on the forum like flintknapper, ed2hess, fastline and others are the smart ones with experience and knowledge.
 

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