landscape wall

Discussion in 'Landscape Architecture and Design' started by stevesmowing, Aug 25, 2005.

  1. stevesmowing

    stevesmowing LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 847

    I will be building a landscape wall around a corner of a house. Right now there is a wet-stone one that I will be replacing with a dry block wall. Does anyone have any tips or suggestions on how to start and get the blocks level and what I should use for a base etc. The wall at the tallest will be 2 feet. I was thinking about 3" of crushing stone. I tried searching on here and on the web for tips/instructions and couldn't find much.
  2. bigandy

    bigandy LawnSite Member
    Messages: 34

    Use at least 3" of base material under the wall and 6" would be best with one whole couse burried for a footing. I use what the quarry calls waste rock or all purpose. It is really just the residue out of the rock crusher but it sets up very nicely. Compact this and add 1/2" of loose over the top. With a small level and a dead blow mallet settle each block into bubble level front to back and side to side with the block next to it. We use NP1 block glue to glue down the top course and to tie together any ends or square corners in the wall. This doesnt all take as long as it sounds like.
  3. LandscapeSolutions

    LandscapeSolutions LawnSite Member
    Messages: 59

    Bigandy answered your question nicely. If your still in doubt look online, try google. Don't forget to add a minimum of 12 inches of crushed stone behind your wall also. This allows for water drainage.
  4. lafrance4078

    lafrance4078 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 246

    Check They have a great section that will explain enough to get you started. Good luck!

    UNISCAPER LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,426

    Each block manufacturer writes different specifications for their product, but there are stanrdardized rules that all wall manufacturers have adopted, and the NCMA, Nation Concrete Masons Association has added into their testing for certification.

    Start digging at the lowest point of the grade, and make all your elevations checks from this point to end up at the point where you want to be. We use a lazer, but you can just as easily use some good old string and tape measures on a smaller wall.

    With regard to the footing/leveling pad, you need to bury one inch of wall for every 8" in elevation that wall will have, with a minimum of one full block below grade. This is called the embedment course.

    Second, on a smaller non load bearing wall like you are making, you could probably get away with 3" of compacatable base, NCMA specs and every wall maker I have seen the writs on calls for 6" inches of gravel in the leveling pad.
    Last, 1' foot of gravel, wrapped in geotextile fabric behind solid walls, but if you have an open core wall like Alan block, of Keystone Compac or Standards, you will fill the core with 3/4" and can use only 6" of 3/4" gravel behind the wall. The one last thing you should remember is this. You need to place a piece of 4" SDR-35 perforated pipe at the base of the wall, and it should turn out to daylight every 50' of run you have, or, if you have sub drains, you can connect to those so long as the drain pipe is higher than those drains. If there is no where for water to go, (like if the ground is flat on the othr side of the wall, or no pitch can be made for the drain, then it is best to pack the bottom course tight with the same compactable gravel as the leveling pad, and daylight your pipes through the wall face. We use a 4.5" core drill through the face and insert a bress removable screen on the pipe to give a finished look to the job. This drain and how well you keep the leveling pad dry, meaning what you do with drains, will save a world of greif over years to come. In a freeze/thaw application,. the water will expand as it freezes and actually heave the wall. That's why you have to get the water to the wall face and out from behind it. Even though alot of it will drain through the cracks, daylighting pipe will assure there will be enough drainage for the job.

    Good luck, and I hope all the stuff you gleened here helps you through the work.

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