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Discussion in 'Homeowner Assistance Forum' started by Eugene Ninnie, Apr 15, 2019.
The layer is about 1-1/2" AND in the past I have allowed it to stay and the lawn overtime gets worse
Where can I find a good economical testing kit?
Ok sounds as if I will just do aeration and see what happens. I don't think there is an issue of overfertilization becasue in the past I have only fertilized once and the lawn looks like S%^T. Moreover I wanter each day for 6 days when it gets very dry. If I don't then the lawn starts to get brown and burnt. I have lived here for over 10 years and my prior method yielded the best results. The only think out of my control is the formulation of the fertilizer which I still maintain that Scots is reducing the nutrient levels lower than advertised and it shows. Thats why I asked about what kind if fertilizer to use 20-20-20?....What kind would you reccomend, an no organic. Organic is BS. It is a retail term for twice as expensive
I know the rotary is faster but to maintain a consistent overlap and coverage is next to impossible with the broadcast spreader. The drop spreader I can see the indention of the wheels to maintain proper coverage and could care less about saving time. Good advice on the soils and iron \. Others in the forum have also responded so I will incorporate their ideas as well. Thank You!
Again a soil test will tell you what fertilizer to buy. I linked to a place to test your soil. Which has very reasonable rates.
Fertilizer is only one step in creating a healthy stand of turf. There is no magic bag of fertilizer. If your fertilizer has stopped performing there could be other issues at hand that are causing this. Watering daily is also not needed. Deeply and infrequently is ideal.
You're getting a 1 1/2" of thatch built up in a single growing season?
It is? Thousands of professional applicators in the US alone would disagree.
Actually organic is a great way to go and works very well. It is not BS. Feeding the microbes that feed the plant vs feeding the plant has an awful lot of merit.
IT dries out and burns BECAUSE you're watering 6 days. As BigJ said, long infrequent waterings vs frequent, short watering will yield you far better results.
I'm still having a hard time believing you're getting a 1 1/2" thick layer of thatch in 5 months time, unless you're turf is on concrete or granite.
Thatch is good--that indicates vigorous growth. It also indicates an aggressive rapid-spread type of Kentucky bluegrass with numerous strong rhizomes. It is dense and more weed resistant. Resists invasion by weedy grasses, such as poa annua and crabgrass.
Iron is good--chelated iron costs more--but it is a lot better.
Sequesterene 330 for instance.
Semi arid and arid soils of the west tend to be sodic and high ph due to the lack of precipitation. Without a soil test neither you or anybody else can make a proper recommendation. Get a full soil test. Chances are you might need to apply calcium sulfate instead of lime. Also, your watering program could be causing all kinds of problems if you are dealing with elevated levels of sodium in the soil and bicarbonates in the water source. Your should only water to field capacity to flush the sodium out of the soil surface and root zone. Also, you need to apply less nitrogen and add more organics to get the microbes to help decompose that buildup.
That’s the worst fertilizer blend over ever read
Really all nitrogen? There’s almost nothing else to your fert?
All nitrogen does is provide top growth
With all the aerating and thatching you’re doing I’m going to bet you’ve got little to now rihzomic pattern and your lawn is getting thin.
Instead of thatching , slitseed
It’s better to change up your fert by season
Something like a 21-7-14-4 SR with iron in the spring
8-32-16 in the early fall after slit seeding.
Water less frequently and more deeply
Combining that with aeration will get you deeper roots and do will using a better fertilizer.
Despite the “turf builder” name, that fert isn’t doing anything to build turf, it’s all topgrowth.
If you mulch when you mow you will get more organic matter returned to the soil.
Consider using an organic fert at least once a year
I like sustane.. it’s turkey poo.
The grass will get pretty arid and bleak in high desert without reintroducing organics regularly.
I assume the chelated Iron needs to be mixed with water and applied based upon soil analysis?