Lawn at 7700 above sea level


Eugene Ninnie

LawnSite Member
So #1
That’s the worst fertilizer blend over ever read
Really all nitrogen? There’s almost nothing else to your fert?
All nitrogen does is provide top growth
With all the aerating and thatching you’re doing I’m going to bet you’ve got little to now rihzomic pattern and your lawn is getting thin.
Instead of thatching , slitseed
It’s better to change up your fert by season
Something like a 21-7-14-4 SR with iron in the spring
8-32-16 in the early fall after slit seeding.

Water less frequently and more deeply
Combining that with aeration will get you deeper roots and do will using a better fertilizer.
Despite the “turf builder” name, that fert isn’t doing anything to build turf, it’s all topgrowth.
If you mulch when you mow you will get more organic matter returned to the soil.
Consider using an organic fert at least once a year
I like sustane.. it’s turkey poo.
The grass will get pretty arid and bleak in high desert without reintroducing organics regularly.
You're getting a 1 1/2" of thatch built up in a single growing season?

It is? Thousands of professional applicators in the US alone would disagree.

Actually organic is a great way to go and works very well. It is not BS. Feeding the microbes that feed the plant vs feeding the plant has an awful lot of merit.

IT dries out and burns BECAUSE you're watering 6 days. As BigJ said, long infrequent waterings vs frequent, short watering will yield you far better results.

I'm still having a hard time believing you're getting a 1 1/2" thick layer of thatch in 5 months time, unless you're turf is on concrete or granite.
Ok sounds like good advice. Thank You. I first need to test the soil and find out more on what it needs. Then adjust my watering
Again a soil test will tell you what fertilizer to buy. I linked to a place to test your soil. Which has very reasonable rates.

Fertilizer is only one step in creating a healthy stand of turf. There is no magic bag of fertilizer. If your fertilizer has stopped performing there could be other issues at hand that are causing this. Watering daily is also not needed. Deeply and infrequently is ideal.
Can you kindly provide the link to the soils testing. I didn't see it in the last post. Thanks!

Eugene Ninnie

LawnSite Member
Thatch is good--that indicates vigorous growth. It also indicates an aggressive rapid-spread type of Kentucky bluegrass with numerous strong rhizomes. It is dense and more weed resistant. Resists invasion by weedy grasses, such as poa annua and crabgrass.
Iron is good--chelated iron costs more--but it is a lot better.
Sequesterene 330 for instance.
I think you are correct lawn gets yellowish during mid season so Iron is a problem but I will test the soil FIRST to get an exact fix on my problem

Mark Oomkes

LawnSite Fanatic
Grand Rapids, MI
Iron disappears pretty quickly and it's hard to put too much down, but I would wait.

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