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Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by gulfjoe, Feb 12, 2012.
This company was recommended to me by the guy at my JD/Lesco.
Looks cool, i just dont think I am going to order sand from 300+ miles away to do the landscaping in my yard, nor am I going to try to talk someone in to letting me borrow/rent an asphalt roller to smooth my yard. Its sounds like it would be an awesome idea and work perfect, but I have a slight hill in my yard, and I can see it spinning and ripping up grass and causing more damage to driveway edges and sidewalk edges and damage to the actual grass. I also have the slightest clue where to get one. Thanks for the ideas but like my supervisors in the military always told me "Keep it simple Stupid". trying to get this done on a budget with better than average results.
I wouldn't recommend rolling it with an asphalt roller. You want to grow turf, not build a house on it. I wouldn't do the 5 yards of sand either, but it is your yard. A good lawn begins and ends with your soil. While topping with sand will fix your problems with the holes, it will be creating problems of its own. It also won't address problems with the soil your turf is growing in.
Sorry....I should have clarified a little better. You were asking what type of sand & I thought this would show at least one type that lawn care professionals might recommend. I looked into this a couple years ago to get a solution to my 2 acres of Bermuda. It was not practical for me either. I will say I had one lawn care person tell me to heavily aerate it (almost to the point that it looks tilled) for a couple years. His thinking was that the plugs would eventually sink to the lowest point in the yard......sort of a self level I guess.
5 yds of sand is for a 10500 sqft lot with a 1700 sqft slab and drive way. that is a rough guestimate of the amount of sand i need I have not gotten out and measured and done the actual equation to find the exact amount needed.
Kiril is probably one of the smartest soils guy on here but the quickest way to get rid of those bumps would be to roll with a heavy roller. You can relieve compaction for your soil structure over time through aeration. If it was good enough for Pete Dye, the largest golf construction firm in the world and the owners of Avalon Lakes CC then that's why I suggested it. It worked great and was on TV 3 months later for an LPGA event.
There is a huge difference between golf and residential turf, and acres vs. a couple thousand square feet. No one chooses to compact their soil if other options are available to you, especially when working with a clayey soil. Careful consideration has to be given towards what you will gain vs. what you will lose, and the cost of each. Beyond that, you may not be able to rid yourself of the compaction with standard aeration.
I have a quick question. I was just reading a pre emergents product label online and it said not to apply on newly set sod until the following year. Is this this true? What should I use for crabgrass/weed control this spring. I was planning on getting all this started march 1st. The sod was laid Dec 15th, and looking at my neighbors grass which was laid before mine most of thier yarsd look terrible, mostly from neglect but still I dont want to look like that. any help would be great.
Do nothing. The sod itself will act as a weed block for the majority of the coming season. Your concern right now is to get irrigation in (done right) and to fix the problem with the soil.
What should I use to treat the seams in the sod where there is a gap between sod rolls, and there is visible soil.
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