Lawn renovation - nutsedge, sod worm, clover, walnuts

Discussion in 'Homeowner Assistance Forum' started by WinterDeere, Sep 5, 2011.

  1. WinterDeere

    WinterDeere LawnSite Member
    Messages: 5


    Thanks for the advice. The lawn is a real hodge-podge. The property is 4 acres, square, with the house well centered. The front lawn has some good grass, with a lot of nutsedge and several bare spots (sodworms). The lower side yard is 80% coverage in clover. The upper side yard looks good. The back yard has mostly good grass, but a lot of broadleaf weeds, and one small bare area where my septic was recently repaired.

    One local guy suggested aerating and seeding the entire property, and putting down some fertilizer with the seed now. Then in early November, right before the grass goes dormant, putting down a winter fertilizer. He suggested Bifrenthin for the webworm, but I have to talk to him again to figure where this works into the schedule. Like you guys, he agreed on waiting until next year to deal with the weeds.

  2. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,082

    Late fall as things are preparing for winter, b4 dormancy is the best time for weed kill
  3. ChiTownAmateur

    ChiTownAmateur LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 386

    I would manually fill in the deepest ruts and smooth out any very high areas, I would do this simply by digging them up and leaving a nice level ground (slightly higher than surrounding area because it will settle). You may say well what are the "deepest"....answer imo is as many as you are willing to bother fixing, if they look very small or you are already tired, you're done.

    Then I would aerate the property as much as possible, at least 2 passes. Allow the plugs to sit on top of the lawn for a day if possible, let them dry up and break down a bit. Then overseed and topdress with a compost/peat moss mixture. Worry about weeds next year, by the time the new grass comes up this season will be about over.

    Lime is often added to increase an acidic pH but at 6.5 you are almost ideal, depending upon the exact type of grass you have

    DO NOT ROLL THE LAWN! I know it may be uneven but the steps outlined above are a way to fix the problem within a few seasons. Rolling is only a good idea when starting completely over and having tilled up the soil to the point where you actually need to compact it a bit so that you can level it out properly. Once established I cannot think of any situation in which it would be right to roll it again...only areas that are renovated, like the hills and ruts mentioned above (till them up, then tamp them down gently to a level just above the soil surrounding it).
    Last edited: Sep 12, 2011

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