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Hello to all and thank you in advance for all the great comments.

We have a Kubota Z231 and I am trying to generate more defined stripes. I have created a striping kit, (flap with a weight) and while it does create decent results, I am really looking for other options. Right now I am using the mulching kit, so unsure if that is impacted it or not.

So here are the questions.

1. Should I remove the Mulching Kit and put some high lift blades on there?
2. Should I just pony up and keep the mulch kit and buy a big league lawn striping kit.
3. What else could I do?

Thank you again.
 

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Modified Option 2: If you have the time, you can make a Big League Clone for less than half the cost.

I got the hardware and Super Strut from Grainger, I had 8 boat wobble rollers and bought 4 new ones, I also had stock on hand for the axle. I can't remember exact cost I have in this, I think around $100 or $110 or so and a couple of hours.

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Modified Option 2: If you have the time, you can make a Big League Clone for less than half the cost.

I got the hardware and Super Strut from Grainger, I had 8 boat wobble rollers and bought 4 new ones, I also had stock on hand for the axle. I can't remember exact cost I have in this, I think around $100 or $110 or so and a couple of hours.

View attachment 513235 View attachment 513236
I am actually looking wt doing this. I really dont want to spend the $400 on one for my ZT. Does it weigh the same as the BL one? How are the results? Where did you get all your parts?
 

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Actually you should further modify your plan.

Remove the mulch kit and side discharge.

Install high lift blades ( make sure you spin blades manually first to ensure the sail does not collide with discharge side baffle)

Install big league style striper. I too diy mine
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I bought all the SuperStrut, brackets and hardware at my local Grainger. They have several different types and finishes. This appears to be almost identical to the Big League strut. I got the vinyl end caps as well for it. I'm a long time boater and had 8 used 4" wobble rollers on hand. For the proper length I needed 4 more rollers and bought them online and I can't remember who they were from...just Google wobble rollers with the correct axle diameter...I'm thinking mine are 5/8" and I had some 5/8" stock on hand to make the axle. I bought the end caps (axle caps on each end) at Lowe's along with the plastic spacers used between the wheels. I had to grind down the spacers for the spacers between wheels that has a bracket between them and on the ends...kind of a grind to fit if you will...just eyeballed it until they looked right.

Those wobble rollers are used for boat trailers and are kind of pricey. I used 4" rollers since I had some already with the correct size inner for the axle. I believe the Big League units use 5" wheels...not much difference that I can see. If you have any marina's nearby, I would check with their shop to see if they have any used ones, might save some $$ in that manner as I think they're about $7 or so per roller. If you need 12 or so...well, simple math. Even at that, you will still be less than half the cost of one you buy. And yes, the unit is quite heavy...it works every bit as good as the unit you can buy for well over twice the cost. Depending on how handy you are and have proper tools, you'll have a couple hours into it. It also depends on how far you want it stick out past the rear of the mower as to how long you'll need to make your brackets and that could add a couple of bucks to your hardware cost.

Speaking of this, Crazy 4 grass has a good post about this...if I can find our convo I'll post a link to it, but a couple of things.... Next, the bracket going to the mower should not be more than a 45* angle. I like my rollers up tight under the rear as I don't want to catch the rollers on any turns. HOWEVER...there's a drawback to mounting it under the rear of the unit...you're limited in how steep of a grade you can transition to. I found out the hard way as I was aware of this and still high sided it if you will when I was going too fast on a new property last week and bottomed out the roller under the unit and had both drive tires slightly off the ground...LOL!! After I removed my left testicle from my sock right after I rocked the mower manually to get one wheel back on the ground enough to motor away, there was no damage to the roller or motor, though there was a bit of pain involved. There was also a strong mental note made about that particular location...

Crazy 4 grass has a quick disconnect system on his that I boldly infringed on his trademark by copying...I had forgotten I also used this same type quick disconnect on my small 21" WB roller years ago. I have a couple of spots in one of my lawns that I start without the roller as there's a section about 75' long that has a good transition...think ditch. Get that done, reinstall roller, it literally takes about 30 seconds to take off or put on. I HIGHLY recommend using a quick disconnect system. As I'm typing this he has posted a pic of his.
 

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I am actually looking wt doing this. I really dont want to spend the $400 on one for my ZT. Does it weigh the same as the BL one? How are the results? Where did you get all your parts?
Parts total cost was under $200.
It weighs the same as the exact same parts are used. Results are great. I aquired most of my parts from menards. Boat rollers were puchased from fleet farm.

All it is
is boat rollers,
a solid cold rolled 5/8 round stock bar for the axle,
unistrut with unistrut fittings,
Nuts and bolts to connect everything.
Washers for spacers between rollers,
Cotter pins and bolt with multiple holes for quick disconnect (see pic)
5/8 inside diameter stops with allen set screw for ends of axle to keep every on
 

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Parts total cost was under $200.
It weighs the same as the exact same parts are used. Results are great. I aquired most of my parts from menards. Boat rollers were puchased from fleet farm.

All it is
is boat rollers,
a solid cold rolled 5/8 round stock bar for the axle,
unistrut with unistrut fittings,
Nuts and bolts to connect everything.
Washers for spacers between rollers,
Cotter pins and bolt with multiple holes for quick disconnect (see pic)
5/8 inside diameter stops with allen set screw for ends of axle to keep every on
Thank you for the parts list. Appreciate it.
 

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😂. Im off on monday so i will grab all the parts and go from there.
It's actually a really fun build. Use an angle grinder to cut the Unistrut to length as well as the axle. You'll need two pieces of Unistrut cut to the same length and then bolt them together back-to-back. Then use the spring-loaded Unistrut nuts to bolt the right angle pieces. I'd recommend using locktight on these otherwise they will shake loose over time. I believe the holes on the right angle pieces are half inch diameter you may have to drill out two of the holes to 5/8 so the axle can slide through. You want some kind of spacers in between the wheels so they're all evenly and don't all Bunch up together. In between each wheel I used a large 5/8 washer on each side sandwiching a plastic peace from a cut off riser. I had the cut off risers on hand it turns out the inside and outside diameter worked well filling in the gap between the wheels. For the ends of the axle I used metal circular rings that have a set screw in them and tighten them down with Loctite. I highly recommend making a quick disconnect. If you zoom in on the pictures you can probably see how we did that. I utilize the existing holes on my frame and bolted two pieces of the flat stock onto the frame that stay on there all the time.

As was mentioned earlier it takes a little bit of deciding how far out you wanted to hang as well as what angle. I made mine hang out a little bit further and longer so there would be less of a chance of it ever rolling back under the mower. Also I made it so it'll actually clear the back of the frame if it gets pushed up too far.

Certainly report back if you have any further questions or if you want more close-ups of any of it.

Hope you enjoy your build and good luck
 

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It's actually a really fun build. Use an angle grinder to cut the Unistrut to length as well as the axle. You'll need two pieces of Unistrut cut to the same length and then bolt them together back-to-back. Then use the spring-loaded Unistrut nuts to bolt the right angle pieces. I'd recommend using locktight on these otherwise they will shake loose over time. I believe the holes on the right angle pieces are half inch diameter you may have to drill out two of the holes to 5/8 so the axle can slide through. You want some kind of spacers in between the wheels so they're all evenly and don't all Bunch up together. In between each wheel I used a large 5/8 washer on each side sandwiching a plastic peace from a cut off riser. I had the cut off risers on hand it turns out the inside and outside diameter worked well filling in the gap between the wheels. For the ends of the axle I used metal circular rings that have a set screw in them and tighten them down with Loctite. I highly recommend making a quick disconnect. If you zoom in on the pictures you can probably see how we did that. I utilize the existing holes on my frame and bolted two pieces of the flat stock onto the frame that stay on there all the time.

As was mentioned earlier it takes a little bit of deciding how far out you wanted to hang as well as what angle. I made mine hang out a little bit further and longer so there would be less of a chance of it ever rolling back under the mower. Also I made it so it'll actually clear the back of the frame if it gets pushed up too far.

Certainly report back if you have any further questions or if you want more close-ups of any of it.

Hope you enjoy your build and good luck
Thanks. I’ll shoot u a pm if i have issues.

Certainly looks like some fun to build.
 

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It's actually a really fun build. Use an angle grinder to cut the Unistrut to length as well as the axle. You'll need two pieces of Unistrut cut to the same length and then bolt them together back-to-back. Then use the spring-loaded Unistrut nuts to bolt the right angle pieces. I'd recommend using locktight on these otherwise they will shake loose over time. I believe the holes on the right angle pieces are half inch diameter you may have to drill out two of the holes to 5/8 so the axle can slide through. You want some kind of spacers in between the wheels so they're all evenly and don't all Bunch up together. In between each wheel I used a large 5/8 washer on each side sandwiching a plastic peace from a cut off riser. I had the cut off risers on hand it turns out the inside and outside diameter worked well filling in the gap between the wheels. For the ends of the axle I used metal circular rings that have a set screw in them and tighten them down with Loctite. I highly recommend making a quick disconnect. If you zoom in on the pictures you can probably see how we did that. I utilize the existing holes on my frame and bolted two pieces of the flat stock onto the frame that stay on there all the time.

As was mentioned earlier it takes a little bit of deciding how far out you wanted to hang as well as what angle. I made mine hang out a little bit further and longer so there would be less of a chance of it ever rolling back under the mower. Also I made it so it'll actually clear the back of the frame if it gets pushed up too far.

Certainly report back if you have any further questions or if you want more close-ups of any of it.

Hope you enjoy your build and good luck
Did some research and i think im just gonna order one. Parts are gonna coat me around $300 for me to diy it. And i dont want to play with an adult erector set that bad😂.
 

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Did some research and i think im just gonna order one. Parts are gonna coat me around $300 for me to diy it. And i dont want to play with an adult erector set that bad😂.
HOLY SMOKES! Where are you shopping at? It is far easier to just buy one to be sure, though I would still utilize a quick disconnect. Let us know when all is said and done, and remember, we want pics!! LOL
 

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HOLY SMOKES! Where are you shopping at? It is far easier to just buy one to be sure, though I would still utilize a quick disconnect. Let us know when all is said and done, and remember, we want pics!! LOL
I suspect most of the cost is the rollers. If he is going full 60 inches wide he might need 20 rollers. Thats almost $200 right there.
 

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I am basing my cost estimate on the rollers alone. I have looked and the 2 3/4 inch wides are $8 a whack. The 3.5” ones are like $15 a piece.. Looked on amazon and a few marine sites. Marine sites are a bit more expensive.

Im only have a 42” deck, so all i need is 36” or 11 of the 3.5” ones (rounding up). Nuts and bolts are easy enough, but i didnt look into the cost of the bars and brackets.

I mean unless im looking at the wrong rollers. i was thinking roughly another $100 or so for the rest of the stuff
 

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I am basing my cost estimate on the rollers alone. I have looked and the 2 3/4 inch wides are $8 a whack. The 3.5” ones are like $15 a piece.. Looked on amazon and a few marine sites. Marine sites are a bit more expensive.

Im only have a 42” deck, so all i need is 36” or 11 of the 3.5” ones (rounding up). Nuts and bolts are easy enough, but i didnt look into the cost of the bars and brackets.

I mean unless im looking at the wrong rollers. i was thinking roughly another $100 or so for the rest of the stuff
For 36 inches you need 9 rollers not 11. You want a half inch space between each roller.

I found them on etrailer.com for $13 each and free shipping. That is about $120. The rest of the materials should come in under 80, putting you out the door at $200. Roughly half of buying new.

 
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