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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a lawn tractor AYP. I turn the key switch and get nothing except the ammeter moves to neg for one second. So I bought a new battery, and a new solenoid. I bypassed the wires leading to fuel shutoff under the carburetor, by cutting the wires and splicing them together. Now I keep blowing the 30 amp fuse. I disconnected the two wires to the ammeter and the fuses did not blow. I spliced the two wires from the ammeter and the fuse blows. I also placed duct tape over all the other safety devices, so they are engaged. One for the seat, clutch, and mower deck engagement. Also I register power to the solenoid on the power side but, not the other nut. I placed a screwdriver between the two nuts on the solenoid and the starter engages and the tractor turns over. I have pulled the positive cable and negative cable from the battery and checked for bad contacts to the frame and exposed wires that may cause a short. Any help would be appreciated
Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Why would that make the fuse blow?? Wouldn't that just complete the circuit. Why would that blow the fuse?? If I leave the wires to the underneath of the carburetor (fuel shut off) spliced together. And disconnect the two wires that go to the ammeter it won't blow the fuse. But connecting the two wires one positive from the battery cable and the other one appears to go to the fuse holder it still blows the fuse and if I splice the end to each other to complete the circuit it still blows the fuse.
 

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Well if I'm following this right you twisted a pos and neg wire together and did complete a circuit. It created a direct short that draws more current than your fuse can handle. Thats why it blows. Put all the wires back where they belong and figure out why your solenoid isn't engaging. When you turn the key to start you are either powering or grounding the small post on the solenoid. This is done through the saftey switches.

Scott
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I connected the two wires that go the bottom of the carburetor (fuel shut off). I also connected the two wires that go to the ammeter one from the positive cable red and the other cable also red goes to the fuse holder . I thought that maybe water may have gotten into the ammeter short circuiting the line. So I connected the two wires and still blows the fuse. I would assume it would be like connecting two wires hopefully not blowing the fuse. That way I would know there was a problem with the ammeter on the dash.
 

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You need to re-connect the 2 wires to the fuel solenoid as they originally were. Also reconnect the ammeter. Replace the blown fuse. You should be able to either hear a slight "click" from the fuel solenoid when you turn the ignition switch to the "on" position.You can also try holding your fuel solenoid with your fingers and may be able to feel the solenoid engage.If you don't hear or feel it engage then turn of fuel supply and remove the solenoid. You will want to catch the fuel that runs out of the bottom of the bowl in a small container(a spray paint cap will work).The reason for catching it is to see if maybe a little water drains from the bowl along with whatever other debris might be in there. After removing the solenoit you can test to see if the plunger is moving when switch is turnned on and off. Sometimes they just get gummed up and you can clean them up and get back to work. If it doesn't work at all then replace it .
 

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You need to re-connect the 2 wires to the fuel solenoid as they originally were. Also reconnect the ammeter. Replace the blown fuse. You should be able to either hear a slight "click" from the fuel solenoid when you turn the ignition switch to the "on" position.You can also try holding your fuel solenoid with your fingers and may be able to feel the solenoid engage.If you don't hear or feel it engage then turn of fuel supply and remove the solenoid. You will want to catch the fuel that runs out of the bottom of the bowl in a small container(a spray paint cap will work).The reason for catching it is to see if maybe a little water drains from the bowl along with whatever other debris might be in there. After removing the solenoit you can test to see if the plunger is moving when switch is turnned on and off. Sometimes they just get gummed up and you can clean them up and get back to work. If it doesn't work at all then replace it .Just my half-fast opinion ! :)
 

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i know it was not a answer but everone on here has told you what you did will not work. this is why i said to take it to a dealer. you say you have taped all the switches down. did you even check to see that they work? from your post you do not mention using a multi meter. listen you can not fix it if you can not SEE IT. with electric problems the meter lets you see. other than that you are just backing up friend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK Guys,
I am new to the site. I reconnected the fuel solenoid shut off and do hear the clicking noise (assume that is operating correctly). I have also taken out the fuel tank so I can see all the safety switches. I depressed all the safety switches to make sure they were all engaged. I do have a multimeter and do not get any readings on the solenoid leading out to the starter. I do get a reading of 12.47 volts into the solenoid. This would indicate that the current isn't getting back to the solenoid. I do understand that this means that their is probably a short somewhere in the wiring. I was just trying to figure out were the short could be. Now the wire leading to the ammeter comes from the red power cable then to the fuse. Leaving the ammeter disconnected it doesn't blow the fuse. Once I connect it to the fuse either directly or through ammeter it blows the fuse. That must mean that the power from the battery or red cable has to much amperage?? I check the red cable from the battery and it doesn't appear to have any cuts frays or problems. But I would guess this could be the problem. I'm not an electrician just trying to figure it out. If you can't help don't respond.
 

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wait wait wait say the fuel shut off on the bottom of the carb is bad. if you were to replace it then then u would restore normal function. replace the fuse return all the wiring to normal. You say that it still turns over so the starter its self isnt bad. its just one of the switchs isnt working, but since ur blowing the fuse ur backfeeding it. which means a short or the solenoid is bad replace it
 

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What is the actual MODEL # of the tractor? This is extremely useful, so one can look at a schematic that fits.

Jumper 12V directly to the small terminal of the starter solenoid.
IF the engine cranks, that means the solenoid & starter is good.
That pretty much leaves -
Key switch
Clutch/brake switch
PTO switch.

Not all safety switches work like you might expect!
 
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