Lawn Treatments/Where to Find Pesticides

jeeperscrow

LawnSite Senior Member
Location
Commerce, GA
Got my license for spraying pesticides last year. Haven't used it yet except for roundup. I have several customers wanting spraying. I have no clue how to get started on it. I am in Georgia. Most grass is zoysia, bermuda or fescue. For those who treat like 8 times a year what do you use for each treatment and when? What are the correct products to use on the types of grasses I mentioned and when? Where do I go to find the products I need? I've heard there are places you can go with your license and buy products and get advice...where do I find those places? I'm in the north part of Georgia just north of Athens for those who know the area.
 

Mr.Roberts

LawnSite Member
Buy from Howard fertilizers. Better prices than siteone.
warm season turf.
Rd 1 Lime
Rd 2 split rate prodiamine & msm or trimec (msm is cheaper and more thorough)
Rd 3 split rate prodiamine 1 lb nitrogen per k sq ft. Trimec or msm.
Rd 4 granular fertilizer I recommend Howard 29-3-8 50% time release 6% iron sucrate.
Rd 5 same.
Rd 6 Specticle split app
Rd 7 Granular potash 1/2 lb per acre
Rd 8 Specticle split app.
Sedges I like certainty. Controls all sedges, buttonweed, fescue clumps, no burn. Image is good also, and will control crabgrass and all broad leaves.
Crabgrass I like Celsius. Drive quinclorac is good too. Celsius will control all broadleaf weeds and fescue clumps too.
Goosegrass I mix red speed zone and image. That’ll also kill everything except Dallisgrass.
Dallisgrass I like certainty mixed with Celsius for small clumps. Celsius image red speed zone mix works.
Tribute Total works.

Fescue
Rd 1 29-3-8 1 lb per K sq ft.
Rd 2 Prodiamine split app. 1 lb N per K. Trimec.
Rd 3 Prodiamine split app. 1/2 lb per K. Trimec.
Rd 4 Triple 6 with micros.
Rd 5 Triple 6 with micros. Or you can blanket spray iron and trimec.
Rd 6 Lime 20 lbs per k
Rd 7 Potash 1/2 lb per k.
Don’t really need rds in fescue.
Drive quinclorac for crabgrass and some broad leaves.
sedgehammer or tenacity for sedge.
Dismiss works also for sedge and some broad leaves.
Blindside works on sedge and wild violets.
Red speed zone works on wild violets.
 

ETM

LawnSite Silver Member
Location
GEORGIA
Buy from Howard fertilizers. Better prices than siteone.
warm season turf.
Rd 1 Lime
Rd 2 split rate prodiamine & msm or trimec (msm is cheaper and more thorough)
Rd 3 split rate prodiamine 1 lb nitrogen per k sq ft. Trimec or msm.
Rd 4 granular fertilizer I recommend Howard 29-3-8 50% time release 6% iron sucrate.
Rd 5 same.
Rd 6 Specticle split app
Rd 7 Granular potash 1/2 lb per acre
Rd 8 Specticle split app.
Sedges I like certainty. Controls all sedges, buttonweed, fescue clumps, no burn. Image is good also, and will control crabgrass and all broad leaves.
Crabgrass I like Celsius. Drive quinclorac is good too. Celsius will control all broadleaf weeds and fescue clumps too.
Goosegrass I mix red speed zone and image. That’ll also kill everything except Dallisgrass.
Dallisgrass I like certainty mixed with Celsius for small clumps. Celsius image red speed zone mix works.
Tribute Total works.

Fescue
Rd 1 29-3-8 1 lb per K sq ft.
Rd 2 Prodiamine split app. 1 lb N per K. Trimec.
Rd 3 Prodiamine split app. 1/2 lb per K. Trimec.
Rd 4 Triple 6 with micros.
Rd 5 Triple 6 with micros. Or you can blanket spray iron and trimec.
Rd 6 Lime 20 lbs per k
Rd 7 Potash 1/2 lb per k.
Don’t really need rds in fescue.
Drive quinclorac for crabgrass and some broad leaves.
sedgehammer or tenacity for sedge.
Dismiss works also for sedge and some broad leaves.
Blindside works on sedge and wild violets.
Red speed zone works on wild violets.
if you don’t mind send me a pm and let me know what you are paying for that fert.
 

ETM

LawnSite Silver Member
Location
GEORGIA
Got my license for spraying pesticides last year. Haven't used it yet except for roundup. I have several customers wanting spraying. I have no clue how to get started on it. I am in Georgia. Most grass is zoysia, bermuda or fescue. For those who treat like 8 times a year what do you use for each treatment and when? What are the correct products to use on the types of grasses I mentioned and when? Where do I go to find the products I need? I've heard there are places you can go with your license and buy products and get advice...where do I find those places? I'm in the north part of Georgia just north of Athens for those who know the area.
I will save you some heartache. Don’t treat centipede. I don’t treat fescue either. Either one you are asking for trouble IMO in our area. I’m not to far from you in Walton County.
 

andersman02

LawnSite Bronze Member
Location
Snowy MN
I will save you some heartache. Don’t treat centipede. I don’t treat fescue either. Either one you are asking for trouble IMO in our area. I’m not to far from you in Walton County.
Out of curiosity ( I'm in MN and have tons of fescue) why? Too much changing of chemicals/ program?

Honest question, not trying to come off bad
 

ETM

LawnSite Silver Member
Location
GEORGIA
Out of curiosity ( I'm in MN and have tons of fescue) why? Too much changing of chemicals/ program?

Honest question, not trying to come off bad
No problem. Here it gets to be 90+ 100% humidity and the fescue just can’t handle to heat here. 9 times out of 10 summers here also you will go months with zero rain. Disease will run rampant on those few fescue yards as well. To only treat warm season grass centipede excluded you don’t need but a few chemicals and your pre m choice year after year won’t change much. Say I have 20 to treat and in the middle of the route I have 2/3 fescue yards I have to change what I’m doing. Imagine having to do that daily. I been there and would never suggest starting out with that. I also won’t touch a centipede yard ever again. The last few years we will get a warm spell in Feb. and the yards will start greening up, only to have a freeze days later. I’ve seen so many centipede yard die with that weather And guess who they blame when it doesn’t come out of dormanc? It happened earlier this year and we couldn’t even get centipede sod because it harmed so much. Just my experience since we started in 1999. You have the right climate for fescue and we don’t. Just north of us in the North Georgia mountains I’d have fescue but not down here where we are.
 

Mr.Roberts

LawnSite Member
Out of curiosity ( I'm in MN and have tons of fescue) why? Too much changing of chemicals/ program?

Honest question, not trying to come off bad
Centipede is very temperamental. North Georgia is is upper northern most tolerant region temperature wise. It’s prone to severe winter damage although I’ve seen rare centipede lawns as far as Clarksville, Tennessee. It doesn’t like more than 2-3 lbs of nitrogen per K square feet per year. It’s sensitive to many post emergent weed controls, and some pre emergent weed controls whereas 90% of our turf is
Bermuda...over 95% Bermuda in many areas. Bermuda is indestructible as long as it has ample sunlight. Centipede also does better in higher acidic soils which is contrary to the goal of raising the ph in Bermuda via lime. It’s a gamble. It doesn’t recover but at a snails pace. Easier to be blamed for it’s conditions thereby having a homeowner demand you replace turf.
Bermuda...fertilize it. Extend bedding. Remove shade. It’s fine. No re sodding of Bermuda has ever been necessary personally in 19 years. Zoysia....more or less the same as Bermuda. Not as much fertilizer. Doesn’t spread as quick as Bermuda. Most varieties work in 4-6 hours of sun/partial shade except for Meyer. Fungus can destroy large sections. Fungicides also make it profitable. It gets affected by winter damage, but eventually recovers. Resodding zoysia is very rare, but not never.
Tall Fescue. Aerate and seed every Fall unless it’s in the rare 1-5% of lawns in our region that have a perfect as can be environment. It thins out from heat stress and drought stress here. Brown patch fungus destroys much of it. It’s profitable with fungicides and aeration/seedings. It’s a pain. HAS to be kept at least 4 inches tall April-September here, and HAS to be in at least a partial shade environment or Bermuda WILL take over. It’s never put down in brand new neighborhoods. 95% Bermuda or more, and 5% zoysia or less is what’s put in new neighborhoods in our region. Fescue is popular in backyards of 30 year old neighborhoods where trees have matured.
 
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ultimateanswer

LawnSite Member
Location
Norman, OK
Out of curiosity ( I'm in MN and have tons of fescue) why? Too much changing of chemicals/ program?

Honest question, not trying to come off bad
I'll chime in on this as well. I am located in central OK and we have a fair amount of full fescue and mixed fescue/bermuda lawns here. For me it comes down to ease of operation. I run gly in my early treatments to smoke out any poa or henbit that pokes through the previous fall's pre-em. Fescue in our climate does not go into dormancy and therefore we cannot spray gly. Also, as was stated by ETM, the humidity in the south complicates things when caring for a fescue yard. Water and timing of the water cycle is imperative. I've seen fescue burn out by being watered during the day, and fungus-ed up when watered too late in the evening. Water early enough in the day so that it doesn't cook the grass, but not too late that water sits overnight and promotes fungus growth. And if that wasn't enough, you have to be meticulously careful with your chemical choice during the growth season as some of the same chemicals that we use to nuke the pest grasses we deal with will also nuke the fescue with our temps.
I strongly discourage fescue customers from choosing my service, both verbally and through price, but I do have about a dozen yards that have fescue. I hate dealing with fescue, but love money....hellova world....
 

RigglePLC

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Grand Rapids MI
Interesting question.
Does anyone know if watering grass in the heat of the day will "cook the grass".
How hot is too hot?
Do you have pictures?
Fescue? Bermuda?
Bluegrass?
 

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