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Lazer Z clutch removal

14K views 37 replies 11 participants last post by  biscuit141 
#1 ·
Well my clutch just **** the bed and the bearings are toast. I am in the process of removing it to fully assess the damage. Below is a picture of the clutch. Can anyone tell me if this is standard or reverse threads before I start cranking on it? Also, if I put a wrench on that flat spacer behind the bolt, will that hold the crank or is there another trick? Would using an impact wrench be a mistake? Any and all advice welcome.

Also, are the bearing replaceable or do I need a whole new lucth assembly? Best place to buy?

Thanks in advance.

 
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#30 ·
I would not hesitate to get the Stens. You could replace the bearing in your old one and have it as a spare. I just put a Ebay clutch on my Scag TT (eXtreme clutch or something, $179 or so). It looks to be made well and worked in the one lawn I did today.
Could you post the ebay seller you bought your clutch from? It sounds like the same brand name of clutch I posted to earlier on ebay.

Get your model # and serial # off the frame we can tell you the exact clutch you need.
Model # LZ25KC604
Serial # 244688
 
#32 ·
#33 ·
Yes, 25hp Kohler Command. My local Toro dealer quoted me a Stens at $433. I would definitely like to get one for less than that. The trouble with a lot of these online retailers is no one specified the brand of clutch. It seems prices online hover around $250-$300.
 
#34 ·
I tell you one thing I have learned is to test the clutch with 12v leads while it's still on the mower, because if you can hear it click then the clutch is still good and from my experience probably a good half of all clutches that are replaced need not have been.

So rule out everything else first, such as a bad connection.
 
#35 ·
I tell you one thing I have learned is to test the clutch with 12v leads while it's still on the mower, because if you can hear it click then the clutch is still good and from my experience probably a good half of all clutches that are replaced need not have been.

So rule out everything else first, such as a bad connection.
My clutch worked fine, the issue is that the bearing seized. From what I am reading the bearings on a Warner are not serviceable. I could be wrong however, I would love to replace the bearings and put it back on.
 
#38 ·
Well I was able to press the bearing out of the part of the clutch with the magnet on it, that was the one that was seized, however the other side with the pulley is also on its way out. I got a price from the local bearing place of $72 for both bearings, they also recommended use Loctite retaining compound when inserting the bearings. That was $16, plus tax and shipping for the bearings I was at $96 dollars. I decided that since the clutch had 1000 hours on it anyway that it would be a better idea to just replace the whole thing. I called Warner and they directed me to J-thomas.com who was their distributor. I was able to buy the OEM Warner clutch from them for $242.66 + $10 shipping and I should have it tomorrow. The cheapest replacements I found were on eBay, $199 + free shipping for an "Extreme" brand clutch, or Pete's Small Engine for $219.95 + $7.95 shipping for a Stens brand clutch. I figured for the extra $25 over the Stens it was worth it to go OEM. Anyway, that is my story, hopefully it helps others in the future. I will post some pictures of my seized bearing when I return from my trip next week.
 
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