[SamSchlotz]

Who out there has been repairing/rebuilding Lesco spray guns with a high success rate?

I perform ALL of our maintenance (Building and Equipment) and somehow, this project has repeatedly frustrated me, more than any other...

My experience has been as follows:
-The gun has begun to leak an unacceptable amount of fluid from the tip. Inspect, and Re-Build.
-Following a nice long soak in warm water, it's time for a test. With the exception of one repair, every gun has shown little/no improvement, or failed again after 1-2 weeks use.

Some folks have said all guns are throw away items. I'm from the school of thought that finds this unacceptable, so please... Someone.. Anyone....
Tips? Tricks? Videos? I know someone out there isn't telling the rest of us the secret..

 

[ted putnam]

Who out there has been repairing/rebuilding Lesco spray guns with a high success rate?

I perform ALL of our maintenance (Building and Equipment) and somehow, this project has repeatedly frustrated me, more than any other...

My experience has been as follows:
-The gun has begun to leak an unacceptable amount of fluid from the tip. Inspect, and Re-Build.
-Following a nice long soak in warm water, it's time for a test. With the exception of one repair, every gun has shown little/no improvement, or failed again after 1-2 weeks use.

Some folks have said all guns are throw away items. I'm from the school of thought that finds this unacceptable, so please... Someone.. Anyone....
Tips? Tricks? Videos? I know someone out there isn't telling the rest of us the secret..

At $70 per gun(not including the tip), guns are not a throw away item IMO. If someone is throwing them away after the original trigger mechanism fails, they need to throw them my way. There's only one or 2 secrets I know of for rebuilding/ using these (Lesco) guns. #1 always put a light coating of vaseline on the stem/plunger where the O-rings of the plunger and the plunger seal slide up and down on each other.#2 As the plunger is fed into the throat, be sure to "seat" the seal in the throat while still allowing the plunger stem to slide up and down. Other than that, occasionally it becomes necessary to run a cleaning brush through the throat of the gun( residues from overly thick or dry formulations of product can build up preventing the black stopper at the end of the stem from sealing in the throat. This will allow the gun to "dribble" if not clean and sealing properly. The rebuild kit includes springs and screws but I only replace these when I feel it is necessary.
The only other secret I know of as far as Lesco guns are concerned is that somtimes the trigger seems "gummy" and doesnt want to shut off immediately. Holding the gun in the air with the trigger engaged, take the tip off and spray WD-40 down the barrel of the gun. Work the trigger back and forth until you get a crisp, spring loaded shut off.
Hope this helps

 

[RigglePLC]

Take the handle screws out. No need to buy the kit. Just buy the small o-ring--I think there are two. This part fails first. Fluid leaks out of the handle. They are about a quarter-inch in diameter. Take them to your Ace hardware store and match them. You have to stretch them a good bit to get them over the shaft of the valve stem, of course. Need strong fingers. Lube everything up with grease--silicone grease is better; it is waterproof. Once it is well-lubricated, the shut off is not slow or sticky. Replace the whole valve shaft if the rubber dimple at the top has a visible groove in it.
These small o-rings do not seal well when the weather or water is cold.

 

[TPendagast]

eh.,
$70...$100?
we're talking volatile (and expensive) chem distribution here.
a replacement gun is the cost of doing business.
You're not "saving" or making money fiddling around with beat up guns.
Go rebuild an engine or something... hassling with a plastic gun isnt worth it and the spray tech will highly appreciate (and be more productive) with a new gun.

 

[ted putnam]

eh.,
$70...$100?
we're talking volatile (and expensive) chem distribution here.
a replacement gun is the cost of doing business.
You're not "saving" or making money fiddling around with beat up guns.
Go rebuild an engine or something... hassling with a plastic gun isnt worth it and the spray tech will highly appreciate (and be more productive) with a new gun.

Hmmm...I never read the words "beat up" anywhere.
I have Lesco guns that are 6-7 yrs old that get a <$10 repair kit 1 or 2 times a season. Ours aren't "beat up". We try to take care of them. They are $69.99 all day long at Westheffer. The tips are $10. I know that because I just replaced one that was several yrs old with a cracked barrel from this cold weather. If I trashed a lawn gun every time the gun started F'ing up, I'd be out $140/yr...at least. In 7 yrs, I'd have spent $980 minimum. Instead, I've actually spent less than $100 in repair kits and I have to replace a tip occasionally. It takes all of 5 minutes of my time when they do mess up to install a repair kit and I'm "back in business". The business of making money, not spending it unnecessarily. Very important. Especially when out in the field.
I have a couple of 10-12 yr old Lesco guns in the shop that I would classify as "beaters" that stay in a box on standby but guess what, they work perfectly when the guts are replaced and they have the necessary tip. JMO

 

[SamSchlotz]

Take the handle screws out. No need to buy the kit. Just buy the small o-ring--I think there are two. This part fails first. Fluid leaks out of the handle. They are about a quarter-inch in diameter. Take them to your Ace hardware store and match them. You have to stretch them a good bit to get them over the shaft of the valve stem, of course. Need strong fingers. Lube everything up with grease--silicone grease is better; it is waterproof. Once it is well-lubricated, the shut off is not slow or sticky. Replace the whole valve shaft if the rubber dimple at the top has a visible groove in it.
These small o-rings do not seal well when the weather or water is cold.

Thanks for the input Riggle!

 

[SamSchlotz]

At $70 per gun(not including the tip), guns are not a throw away item IMO. If someone is throwing them away after the original trigger mechanism fails, they need to throw them my way. There's only one or 2 secrets I know of for rebuilding/ using these (Lesco) guns. #1 always put a light coating of vaseline on the stem/plunger where the O-rings of the plunger and the plunger seal slide up and down on each other.#2 As the plunger is fed into the throat, be sure to "seat" the seal in the throat while still allowing the plunger stem to slide up and down. Other than that, occasionally it becomes necessary to run a cleaning brush through the throat of the gun( residues from overly thick or dry formulations of product can build up preventing the black stopper at the end of the stem from sealing in the throat. This will allow the gun to "dribble" if not clean and sealing properly. The rebuild kit includes springs and screws but I only replace these when I feel it is necessary.
The only other secret I know of as far as Lesco guns are concerned is that somtimes the trigger seems "gummy" and doesnt want to shut off immediately. Holding the gun in the air with the trigger engaged, take the tip off and spray WD-40 down the barrel of the gun. Work the trigger back and forth until you get a crisp, spring loaded shut off.
Hope this helps

I appreciate the feedback! Im rebuilding another four next week, so we'll see how she goes...

 

[RigglePLC]

In the instructions to rebuild--you can see the two quarter-inch rubber o-rings that are easiest and cheapest to replace.
I just remembered--the valve "SEAT" is a bit difficult to remove. The rebuild kit does not include one, a doughnut-shaped white nylon washer thing with an o-ring around it. $11 additional. The rubber dimple seats against it to form the seal. Deep inside. Most of the time you can ignore it--no need to replace. There is a special tool to remove it. The pictures suggest a "pick". Not always easy. Too tight, I broke my pick tool. Most of the time you can ignore it --no need to replace.
I had good luck with the valve seat a few years ago during winter refurbishment. I clamped a 6 inch-long, quarter-inch bolt in a vise. I eased the bolt head through the doughnut hole and hooked it on the bolt head. Gave her a yank. Out she come.
Greased it thoroughly during re-assembly. Wanted to make it easier next time.

http://www.gregsonclark.com/Valve-Seat-007309-p/007309.htm

The rebuild instructions.

http://www.gregsonclark.com/Articles.asp?ID=256

 

[SamSchlotz]

I just remembered--the valve "SEAT" is a bit difficult to remove. The rebuild kit does not include one, a doughnut-shaped white nylon washer thing with an o-ring around it.The rubber dimple seats against it to form the seal. Deep inside. Most of the time you can ignore it--no need to replace. There is a special tool to remove it. Too tight, I broke my tool. Most of the time you can ignore it --no need to replace.
I had good luck a few years ago during winter refurbishment. I clamped a 6 inch-long, quarter-inch bolt in a vise. I eased the bolt head through the doughnut hole and hooked it on the bolt head. Gave her a yank. Out she come.
Greased it thoroughly during re-assembly. Wanted to make it easier next time.

http://www.gregsonclark.com/Valve-Seat-007309-p/007309.htm

The rebuild instructions.

http://www.gregsonclark.com/Articles.asp?ID=256

I have the tool kit, and absolutely, it is still difficult to pull! I like your idea.

Do you think that there is anything to be gained storing them in water over winter? Our warehouse stays around 60', but that dry, winter air?

 

[RigglePLC]

I never stored mine in water. Stored outside like everything else--unheated shed.
Of course, one of the most often broken parts is the trigger. The top inch most often snaps off. Still usable. Replace the white nylon trigger over the winter. At times it is possible to bend or break the white nylon hose connection nipple. 3/4 pipe thread to half-inch hose nipple.

 

[SamSchlotz]

I never stored mine in water. Stored outside like everything else--unheated shed.
Of course, one of the most often broken parts is the trigger. The top inch most often snaps off. Still usable. Replace the white nylon trigger over the winter. At times it is possible to bend or break the white nylon hose connection nipple. 3/4 pipe thread to half-inch hose nipple.

We have always been leary of the Nylon hose connectors, and have always switched to a brass swivel connector with a proper hose clamp.

Never had an issue, and it's always a nice peace of mind... Im always amazed at what/how people manage to break in the field, though..

 

[sprayboy]

At $70 per gun(not including the tip), guns are not a throw away item IMO. If someone is throwing them away after the original trigger mechanism fails, they need to throw them my way. There's only one or 2 secrets I know of for rebuilding/ using these (Lesco) guns. #1 always put a light coating of vaseline on the stem/plunger where the O-rings of the plunger and the plunger seal slide up and down on each other.#2 As the plunger is fed into the throat, be sure to "seat" the seal in the throat while still allowing the plunger stem to slide up and down. Other than that, occasionally it becomes necessary to run a cleaning brush through the throat of the gun( residues from overly thick or dry formulations of product can build up preventing the black stopper at the end of the stem from sealing in the throat. This will allow the gun to "dribble" if not clean and sealing properly. The rebuild kit includes springs and screws but I only replace these when I feel it is necessary.
The only other secret I know of as far as Lesco guns are concerned is that somtimes the trigger seems "gummy" and doesnt want to shut off immediately. Holding the gun in the air with the trigger engaged, take the tip off and spray WD-40 down the barrel of the gun. Work the trigger back and forth until you get a crisp, spring loaded shut off.
Hope this helps

I'm with you, I will rebuild them all day long. I rebuild mine every spring before I start spraying and keep a new kit just in case of a problem. Only one time I had an issue in the season with the rubber tip breaking off. It was early in season and I actually think it was a defective part. I do the WD-40 trick too when it gets gummy. I just hold my gun upside down and squirt it in the cracks of gun where the handle pivots and let it run down and work the trigger a few times...good as new.

 

[sprayboy]

I have the tool kit, and absolutely, it is still difficult to pull! I like your idea.

Do you think that there is anything to be gained storing them in water over winter? Our warehouse stays around 60', but that dry, winter air?

I never replace the seat. The rubber tip on the trigger will wear out long before the plastic.
My guns lay on the shelf in an unheated barn during winter..no problems.

 

[sprayboy]

We have always been leary of the Nylon hose connectors, and have always switched to a brass swivel connector with a proper hose clamp.

Never had an issue, and it's always a nice peace of mind... Im always amazed at what/how people manage to break in the field, though..

I always use brass connectors. Had a hose come off plastic before. I feel like the plastic can give a little trying to tighten the clamp. The brass has better ridges for the hose to grab.

 

[ted putnam]

I always use brass connectors. Had a hose come off plastic before. I feel like the plastic can give a little trying to tighten the clamp. The brass has better ridges for the hose to grab.

Absolutely!
Brass doesn't dry rot like plastic either. The only thing is I use 3/8" hose. They don't typically sell 3/8" hose barb to 3/4 NPT fittings in brass around here so I end up ordering them online. A minor inconvenience that's well worth the trouble for the added benefit.

 

[sprayboy]

Absolutely!
Brass doesn't dry rot like plastic either. The only thing is I use 3/8" hose. They don't typically sell 3/8" hose barb to 3/4 NPT fittings in brass around here so I end up ordering them online. A minor inconvenience that's well worth the trouble for the added benefit.

Same here, 3/8 hose and had to order the fitting but well worth it.

 

[RigglePLC]

And do not forget to wrap a length of tape around the hose clamp. This tape reduces the chance of cuts of the hand on the sharp edges of the clamp.

Cut a plastic oil bottle in half. Use the plastic to protect your hand when guiding the hose during wind-up. Sometimes I use the gun itself as a hose guide. Maybe someday a new gun will have a small rotating pulley wheel on the gun as a hose guide for rolling up the hose.
Try to keep the hose laying flat. With no kinks and no twists. Turn right, and then left as you move across the lawn. The number of right turns must equal the number of left turns. A twisted hose with kinks tends to get the gun trigger caught in the hose--trigger end breaks off.
Carry the gun back to the truck--do not just drag it across the lawn with the power of the reel.
Keep the clamp tight--I once pulled my gun off the end of the hose on the way to the back yard. Not good.

 

[greendoctor]

No more hose clamps for me. I keep this and a roll of safety wire in the truck.

This tool tensions and then crimps a loop of stainless wire tighter than you can screw down a clamp. The ends of the wire are curled in and pressed into the hose itself, so no sharp edges sticking out. I will trust this over a clamp on my hoses.

 

[phasthound]

No more hose clamps for me. I keep this and a roll of safety wire in the truck.

This tool tensions and then crimps a loop of stainless wire tighter than you can screw down a clamp. The ends of the wire are curled in and pressed into the hose itself, so no sharp edges sticking out. I will trust this over a clamp on my hoses.

Do you have a video to show how this works?

 

[americanlawn]

Been spraying since the late 70's. Started with the dual trigger ChemLawn gun w/canister. Nowadays, I prefer TeeJet lawn guns. (just as easy to rebuild as ChemLawn guns) TeeJet guns weigh less than "half' of what ChemLawn guns weigh >> HUGE deal to me, cuz I don't have the "wrist & elbow" problems I used to have (due to excess gun weight). Unless the "trigger lock" is worn out, you can pretty much rebuild these guns for many years. Only exception = the 4 screws in the handle are NOT 'stainless steel'.....making it impossible to remove them due to corrosion. my 2 cents