Lesco Fertilization Program Help Please

Discussion in 'Fertilizer Application' started by macani, May 19, 2014.

  1. Skipster

    Skipster LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,075

    What nutrient rates are you recommending to use with these fertilizer products?

    In one of your previous posts, you say that the rule of thumb is 1 lb N/M. So, are you recommending that when seeding a cool season grass, 4 lbs N/M should be applied over 4 months, 4 lbs P2O5/M should be applied over 4 months, and 3 lbs K2O/M should be applied over 4 months?

    DoesnÂ’t that sound a bit excessive?
  2. Hissing Cobra

    Hissing Cobra LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 705

    It's not excessive at all for new grass growth. It's a whole different ballgame when trying to grow grass from seed as the grass will go through the nutrients at a much faster rate when compared to an older, matured lawn.
  3. Skipster

    Skipster LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,075

    Those fertility rates are MUCH higher than any university recommendations I’ve seen. Most recs call for 0.5 to 1# N after emergence and 0.5 to 1# P (or to soil test) at planting or at emergence.

    Using such a large amount of fert doesn’t make anything grow in better. It just delivers the same results and costs you more money.
  4. macani

    macani LawnSite Member
    Messages: 14

    Here are some pictures of my neighbors renovation this past week

    1. We sprayed it with round up 3 weeks ago, killed everything
    2. Used riding mower and dethatcher attachment to loosen some old grass/weed, then we raked/collected everything.
    3. He decided to add 20 yards of topsoil
    4. Seed/Starter Fert/ Water (pic of what seed we used)

    [​IMG] [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
  5. macani

    macani LawnSite Member
    Messages: 14

    Here are some pics of my overseeding

    1) Have been cutting grass shorter recent weeks down to 1.5 inches
    2) Rented Classen T 20
    3) Went over my lawn 2 passes (diamond shape) (50 lbs of seed)
    4) Starter Fert
    5) Water

    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
  6. Hissing Cobra

    Hissing Cobra LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 705

    It looks like you both are well on your way. Post pic's up every 10 days or so and try to take them from the same angles so that we'll have an easier time comparing the results. I'm liking that grass seed mixture that you are using. It's got a lot of Bluegrass, which is what most people want in their lawn. It takes a long time to fill in but the results will be worth it. You can expect that Ryegrass to come in within 7 to 10 days, the Creeping Red Fescue in about 14 to 21 days, and the Bluegrass to arrive in 21 to 28 days. Good luck!
  7. Hissing Cobra

    Hissing Cobra LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 705

    I haven't been on this site too much lately so I missed this post. In a lot of these pictures it appears like you may have been fighting Leaf Spot Fungus/Disease. I get it in my back yard and it melts out couple of areas every year (the same ones). I've applied Eagle fungicide to those areas and that helps but I may have to switch to a different fungicide such as Prophesy because it's mode of action is different. Look up some information on Leaf Spot, Dollar Spot, and Red Thread. All of these diseases are very common in manicured lawns. The telltale signs of Leaf spot include spotting on the grass blades (almost like polka dots of brown/black coloring). From there, it can melt out the blade, turning it yellow. It'll then decline until re-seeding is needed.
  8. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,436

    Arc is a big-seeded type of Kentucky bluegrass--which means it germinates quicker. A good advantage in overseeding and for landscaping use when conditions are not as ideal as on a sod farm.
    But it says "Good" disease resistance--to me that is one step below "Excellent".
    They claim "Nice density" so maybe it is not the best density of their varieties.

    I like Palmer III, but like most ryegrasses, it is so vigorous, it may crowd out most of the slow starting bluegrass. Palmer V is a bit newer.

    I am not saying it is bad seed--but--"Boreal" fine fescue is an inexpensive old-fashioned variety from the 70's.

    Pardon me for being critical.

    Keep in mind that dryness is a common problem in new seedings.
    Keep in mind rust fungus is very common afflicting perennial ryegrass and some bluegrasses in the late summer and fall. Ryegrass from new seed is particularly susceptible to rust, in the fall.


    Rust looks bad, but it is not serious, as it tends to disappear after frost in the fall.
  9. macani

    macani LawnSite Member
    Messages: 14

    Today I was told that I have shade grass in full sun , that's why its struggling, pale color. I pretty much don't have any shade, it is all sun. Not sure what contractor put down when he seeded, but you can see in previous post what I put down.

    Now I'm wondering if I should kill it all with roundup and reseed with World Cup Kentucky Bluegrass Seed from Seedland.com

    Any thoughts on this ? What if I just keep overseeding with Kentucky Bluegrass, is it ever going to overtake my lawn ? My plan was overseed anyways in September, but am scared of killing it all then reseeding.
  10. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,436

    Chances are you have mostly perennial ryegrass. If you are watering regularly and fertilizing every 6 weeks it should look fine. Get a second opinion on the too much "shade grass". Fine fescue (a shade grass), has an almost round leaf blade--it spins between the fingers.
    I actually have a high percentage of fine fescue "shade grass" in my sunny front yard, yet it looks excellent, and dark green. It may be an improved type of shade grass. I originally planted bluegrass, but I have overseeded several times with different mixtures in the last 30 years.

    Bluegrass, even "Worldcup" is not particularly competitive when seeded on top of established grass. The new seed will only take as a small percentage because it must get a tiny new root into a bit of moist soil, and then...fight for enough sunlight to grow...as the new seed sprout is only about 1/4 inch tall. A short cut and vigorous raking would help the Worldcup take hold. It will take a few years to get going.

Share This Page