Lesco microbial dependent fert??

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by wiseguyslawn, Oct 6, 2009.

  1. wiseguyslawn

    wiseguyslawn LawnSite Senior Member
    from Ohio
    Messages: 464

    Wanting to put an app down and irrigation systems are getting blown out already, wondering what anyone would recommend for a microbial fert, so I don't have to depend on a hydrolosis fert. THanks
  2. JDUtah

    JDUtah LawnSite Silver Member
    from UT
    Messages: 2,636

    1- Microbes especially need moisture to survive and do their thing. No moisture, no microbial activity, no plant fertility.

    2- Even with moisture, microbes still don't push nutrients into the plant, they make them soluble and the plant absorbs them in solution, so moisture is still required.

    3- mineral fert or microbial, moisture is what makes the whole thing work.

    Having said that, you are more safe using an insoluble organic based fert because it will just sit there until there is enough moisture for the microbes to do their thing. Mineral fert can dissolve and over concentrate in even small amounts of moisture. So, I would suggest a mature compost spread at no less than 50 lbs per K.
  3. Marcos

    Marcos LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,720

    Well, you named this thread "Lesco microbial dependent fert".
    Just what IS Lesco-eaten-by-a-Deere offering in the way of organics these days?
    And why would you want to wait 'til it's cool outside to think about applying microbial-triggered bios that respond best in warmer weather?

    We finished up our last round two weeks ago, which was soybean meal at a rate of 15-20# / 1000 sq ft.
    Soybean meal (6-1-2 approx analysis) can be purchased at any rural grain elevator or co-op in 50# bags. Last time I bought it it was just under $10 / bag, so figure your cost being between $3.33- $4.00 / K, more or less depending upon how well you can play poker eyes with your local grain vendor.

    This time of year you could also use cotton seed meal (6-2-2) if you can find enough locally & quickly enough to do the work. I like to use CSM as much as possible because it has an acid reaction in soil, so it helps reduce the pH more... g-r-a-d-u-a-l-l-y in our somewhat high SW Ohio alkaline soil. ( :
  4. starry night

    starry night LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,321

    There was a thread on another forum about "winterizer" fertilizer. Marcos, I think you were on that one. (And maybe you were talking theory.) So you are saying that you were finished feeding soil two weeks ago? And you don't do more later?
  5. Marcos

    Marcos LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,720

    As far as meal applications are concerned, yeah, we're done for the year unless some new prospects sign up late.

    The only thing we're doing is finishing up a few of the larger compost topdressing jobs that couldn't be done earlier because of drought, plus a fair amount of core aeration that'll probably keep us busy 'til the end of the month & into the 1st week of Nov.

    Anything bio-related applied to soils that're dropping in temperature as quickly as are around here right now won't have time to produce benefits in the soil during the remainder of this season, anyway.
    Unless, that is, you're willing to use something rude & crude & to-the-point like 100% blood meal, but that product's an echelon I care not climb with my customer base unless it's specifically requested by someone.
  6. phasthound

    phasthound LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 5,162

    Why not try the best of both? Nutrients PLUS Screamin Green 16-2-3 has 5 different sources of N: urea, SCU, ammonium sulfate, composted poultry manure, and biosolids. It provides some quick release and long term release of N exactly when turf calls for it. And the benefits of organic matter.
  7. Marcos

    Marcos LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,720

    What corner of the state are you located?

Share This Page