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Lift Kit Needs

Discussion in 'Trucks and Trailers' started by Garet, Apr 1, 2001.

  1. Garet

    Garet LawnSite Member
    Messages: 157

    Can somebody lay out to me what is needed to obtain a 4" suspension lift? I am curious about the mods which need to be done. Also what more is needed with a 6"?



    73 Chevy K-10, 4wd, th350, 350.
  2. MTCK

    MTCK LawnSite Senior Member
    from Idaho
    Messages: 254

    Four inch kit usually includes, new springs in the front, blocks or add-a-leafs in the rear. You can't use blocks in the front, not safe. You WILL need new shocks with a 4" kit, that are longer, so make sure the kit comes with those, and steering correction, usually in the form of a dropped pitman arm. I don't know if that is "required" for a 4" kit, but it's a good idea. A six inch is about the same, only it for sure requires the steering correction, and you may have to use longer brake lines. Also, with a six inch kit, you're nearing the largest blocks it's safe to use. Any bigger, and you'll need new rear springs also.
  3. 85w/350

    85w/350 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 244

    You might also consider having your axles repitched to reduce wear on your U-Joints
  4. Chuck Smith

    Chuck Smith LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 849

    A 4" lift.... As others have pointed out, you will have to modify your brake lines. Hopefully, you have enough slack in the front lines, that you can use the brackets that come with the kit, to "drop" the brake lines down. Now they pass through the front of the chassis, through a hole. After the lift, they will be through a bracket that gets mounted on the underside of the chassis up front.

    In the rear, you might also have room to use a drop bracket for the brake line. It is best, to get the longer rear brake line for a 4" lift, sold by companies like Superlift. They also sell longer flex lines for the front brakes, if you don't want to use the brackets.

    Remember, your life depends on the steering and the brakes working properly!!

    Now, for the steering. With a 4" lift, you need a dropped steering arm. The steering arm mounts on the axle. You can get a 4" drop Pitman arm, which attaches to the steering box, but the steering arm is easier to change. After the lift, and you install the 4" steering arm, you will actually be able to turn tighter than before the lift, go figure. After the lift, you can count on your drag link wearing out faster. The drag link connects the steering arm, to the pitman arm. Luckily, the drag link ends are cheap to replace when needed. After you install the 4" lift, you will NEED the steering arm. They also sell a dropped drag link, but I wouldn't suggest one of these.

    The lift, can be achieved 2 ways basically. One, is to get 4 replacement leaf springs, such as one of the "soft ride" type lift kits on the market. The second way, is to get a kit that uses 4" tapered blocks in the rear, and a set of replacement leaf springs for the front axle. These used to be most common, but the softride kits do give you a better ride quality, so are gaining popularity. The softride kits are more expensive. The reason the lift blocks are tapered, is to help ease the angle on the rear axle U joint. The blocks help tilt the axle up toward the transfer case.

    You will need longer shocks, as everone has said. I recommend Rancho RS9000's, but any shock for your truck, with a 4" lift will work.

    Not a hard job to do. Should take about a day to do, especially without air tools.

    Remember to be careful, you are playing with your brakes and steering!!!!! Don't take any shortcuts.

  5. Garet

    Garet LawnSite Member
    Messages: 157

    Thx for the info everyone.

  6. Garet

    Garet LawnSite Member
    Messages: 157

    What is involved in repitching your axles? Don't kits come with special blocks which tilt the rear end in a more convenient direction?


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