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Lime Reccomendations For Zone 7

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by start2finish, Sep 3, 2005.

  1. start2finish

    start2finish LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 497

    My soil test called for 2500lb per acre. How and when do you guys reccomend applying this. I am under the impression that I cannot apply this all at onec and wether or not thsi is a myth I would like your opinions. Is it ok to lime heavily with our core-areation and seeding/fert app. or should I areate in the spring with preemergent and lime, or maybe only one areation in fall with seeding???????????? Any new ideas?????????
  2. Turf Troll

    Turf Troll LawnSite Member
    Messages: 227

    So that is about 60lbs per 1000sq.ft. you could do 1 time, have you ever checked with your state cooperative extension office? They get paid to help everyone interested in bettering their soils profile.
  3. sildoc

    sildoc LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,925

    Yeah definatly at the top of my spreading per k but definitly not out of the realm of a one time app. This depends on if it is my yard or a customers. I would split it if it was a customer for a better profit margine. One in fall and one in spring.
  4. NickN

    NickN LawnSite Bronze Member
    from Alabama
    Messages: 1,009

    Maximum recommended amounts are NO more than 50 lbs per 1000 sq ft,per application.
    Lime can take from 4 to 6 months to change the pH level of the soil.
    Fertilizer actually lowers the pH level.(So even when the lime is applied,it's not a one time thing)
    Core aerating will help get the lime into the soil faster,raising the pH faster than just spreading.
    Lime can be applied anytime.
    I'd go with 40 lbs per 1k now,and then 20 lbs per 1k in 2-3 months.Recheck pH in 6 months.
  5. sildoc

    sildoc LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,925

    While this is true it is only 56 lbs per k. What is 6 lbs?
    Like you say. Recomended.
  6. muddstopper

    muddstopper LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,341

    You have two different liming situations involved in your question. Liming of exsisting grass and liming while establishing grass. Generally it is accepted to not apply more than 50lb of lime per 1000 at any one application on exsisting grass. For establishing grass you want to keep those levels down to about 15% of reccomended amounts unless you are incorporating the lime into the soil. Lime recommendations according to soil tests are meant for incorporation into the soil to a depth of 7 to 8 inches. With areation you are getting some incoporation but certainly not 7 or 8 inches. For this reason you should reduce your lime rates if you are also doing new seeding or overseeding exsisting grass. The recomended rate for surface application of lime for new seeding is 15% of soil test recommendation, for every inch the lime is incorporated into the soil. With surface applications of lime and then areation you can figure about 1 or 2 inches of incorporation or about 30% of your soil test recommendation of 2500# per acre, or about 750# of lime per acre. Different methods of incorporation will allow for different amounts of lime to be applied but the general rule of 15% of soil test recomendation for every inch of incorporation should be followed if you are also applying seed.

    Seed should be fertilized and lime for establishment with follow up applications to promote growth. If you fertilize and lime for proper seed establishment you will find that you can reduce seed rates, improve the grass, save money and improve profit margins.
  7. start2finish

    start2finish LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 497

    muddstopper, how would you figure a heavy core areation, 1-2 inch incorporation ??
  8. muddstopper

    muddstopper LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,341

    I guess that would depend on what you call a heavy core aeration and how much lime actually ends up in the core holes. Lime only has the capacity to neutralize approx a 1/8 inch radius around each granule of lime, regardless of lime particle size. Core areating and then broadcasting lime will deposit more lime inside the core hole than if you broadcast lime and then aerated. Another thought to consider is the depth of the roots of the plant. If you soil is of such density that the grass can grow 7 or 8 inch roots then full rates of lime are going to be necessary but if you grass is only growing roots on the top 3 or 4 inches of the soil then you can see how a 7 or 8 inch quantity of lime isn't necessary. Roots will develop according to the water availability and nutrient levels in the soil. Compacted soil generally will have a stratified layer of root growth zone as well as nutrient holding capacity, meaning the roots only penetrate to a certain level, applying lime rates for soil that is not supporting roots is wasteful as well as harmful for the zone that is supporting root growth. The level of aggressive aeration can effect his stratified layer of soil and improve its ability to support root growth and its water and nutrient holding capacity. Simply going over the area one or two passes pokes pretty holes and lets some nutrient penetrate the sub-surface but doesn't cure the problem entirely and also leaves a large amount of the applied lime laying on the top surface of the soil. Large amounts of lime can have an adverse affect on the Ph levels of the top layer of the soil where the new seed is laying but not necessary hurt the established grass simply because the established grass roots are below the sol surface, whereas the seed is laying on the top of the soil surface. Heavy amounts of calcium can release elements that are harmful to plant life but are common in most soils. Notably Aluminum and chlorine. These elements are usually bound-up in the soils with low Ph and not available to the plant, raising the soil Ph (above acceptable limits) releases these harmful elements and can actually reduce the survival rate of the seed or new grass. This is where higher seed rates are usually needed to accomplish the correct plant density for the area being planted. Not to say that grass wont grow at higher Ph levels as grass can tolerate a wide range of soil Ph levels, but when applying lime the goal is to reach the most optimum Ph for the grass type being planted, not go over that Ph range even tho the grass can/will probably survive in the higher Ph ranges.
  9. I'm assuming this is on a existing turf

    That's 57lbs/m I would apply 2 30lbs/m, 4-6 months apart. Make sure you use the proper lime, dolomitic or calicitic. If using highly soluble n source, don't lime and apply n at same time! I agree, more light frequent applications may be beneficail, I prefer to correct the ph fairly quickly, to get soil chemistry correct, test 6 months after my last lime application, then would proably spread out my lime applicaions if needed, in smaller quanities, again depending on the quanity needed.

    from your soil test, correct all the other nutrient problems in the soil!

    Not all fertilizer have a acidying effect on the soil!

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