we do and dont change a thing. there is nothing wrong with it and we are using the red tips for 1/2 gal rate per K. we apply liquid fert with broadleaf with it for rd 2 and 5

 

I've considered it. What liquid fert do you use GM? Water soluable or some liquid based deal.

 

After talking to different people I am going to try it on a few select lawns. Although it can be applied at the low volume rate I am going to go with the 1 gallon tips. The chance of burning or striping will be lower vs the more concentrated rate.

 

Go half rate and criss cross.

 

using an already liquid fert then mixing into solution. it is a 28-0-0 CRN and a separate P-K plus iron, humic, fulvic and micros. all this is mixed with speedzone and never have a burn issue. i figure from experiences i have had that liquid ferts dont burn, dry that you melt in does.

 

No way would I try that. The high concentration of nitrogen may dry on the leaf blades--burn the snot out of it. Try the same concentration in a hand sprayer on your own yard first. Temperature dependent, over 80 degrees doubles the chance of burn. However, what amount of fert per thousand did you plan to use? What product? How much slow release?

 

What are humic and vulvic exactly.

Is that better you guys?

:waving:

 

humic and fulvic acids?!?! serious? i cant tell what you mean by that question.

you may get some tip burn if you have warmer and dryer temps but i dont spray this when it is warm anyways so no issue. every once in a while you mgiht see some tip burn here and there, but nothing to worry about, not even be areas. i would not do a strong dose of liquid fert though at a low volume or it most likely will burn the tips quite a bit.

 

humic and fulvic acids?!?! serious? i cant tell what you mean by that question.

you may get some tip burn if you have warmer and dryer temps but i dont spray this when it is warm anyways so no issue. every once in a while you mgiht see some tip burn here and there, but nothing to worry about, not even be areas. i would not do a strong dose of liquid fert though at a low volume or it most likely will burn the tips quite a bit.

It's a simple question.

What are they?

What do they do. In your own words and experience.

 

No way would I try that. The high concentration of nitrogen may dry on the leaf blades--burn the snot out of it. Try the same concentration in a hand sprayer on your own yard first. Temperature dependent, over 80 degrees doubles the chance of burn. However, what amount of fert per thousand did you plan to use? What product? How much slow release?

The product I am trying is 13-0-44 by Plant Marvel. It is a dry that dissolves. I am putting down 1 lb per K which is only 1/8 of a pound on nitrogen so I don't think burning should be an issue. I am mainly putting it down for the potassium nitrate.

 

they help nutrient availability overall in the soil. they are pretty much the acids from decaying organic materials that help break down other compounds in the soil basically. in laymans terms, they help make that there grass darn thick!!!! i dont treat with hardly any N this round(1/8 lb per K) and mostly the other nutrients and my lawns are so darn thick like carpet that even cutting off 2.5 inches requires double cutting most times in spring!

 

using an already liquid fert then mixing into solution. it is a 28-0-0 CRN and a separate P-K plus iron, humic, fulvic and micros. all this is mixed with speedzone and never have a burn issue. i figure from experiences i have had that liquid ferts dont burn, dry that you melt in does.

grassman

What humic and fulvic products do you use?

 

they help nutrient availability overall in the soil. they are pretty much the acids from decaying organic materials that help break down other compounds in the soil basically. in laymans terms, they help make that there grass darn thick!!!!

Humic Acid is the commercial term often used to refer to the combined humic and fulvic acid content found in naturally occurring decomposed plant and animal residues. The most bio-chemically active humic acid is derived from Leonardite coal, which consists of humified animal and plant substances dating back thousands of years.

Humic acid is effective at improving the quality of all types of soils, especially clay and sandy soils and organically deficient soils. The introduction of humic acid to clay or other compacted soils, results in the break-up of these soils allowing for greater water and root penetration. In sandy soils, humic acid adds vital organic material back into the soil, which allows for improved water retention and deeper root development, both of which are lacking on sandy soils.

Humic acid also plays a critical role in the ability of the plants to uptake nutrients. Humic acid has the ability to unlock nutrients in the soil that would otherwise be unavailable to the plant, while also providing the transport mechanism making these nutrients readily available. On a microbial level, humic acid stimulates the beneficial activities of naturally occurring soil microbes. These soil microbes are responsible for solubilizing minerals and nutrients so that they can then be stored by the humic acid and in turn be made available to the plant. Soil microbes are also responsible for the continued production of humus in the soil and the improvement of the soil structure.

With all of the talk of nutrients and humic acid, it could be easy to get it confused with a fertilizer. Humic acid is not a traditional fertilizer, as it does not directly provide nutrients for the plant. However, it should be used as a complement to help improve the fertilizer use and in the long run reduce the need for constant fertilization.

 

I have, Just bought new zspray and used liquid fert and had some burn.Just be careful

 

I have, Just bought new zspray and used liquid fert and had some burn.Just be careful

Does anyone use Pendulum with zspray and 1/3 nozzles. If so any problems?

 

Humic Acid is the commercial term often used to refer to the combined humic and fulvic acid content found in naturally occurring decomposed plant and animal residues. The most bio-chemically active humic acid is derived from Leonardite coal, which consists of humified animal and plant substances dating back thousands of years.

Humic acid is effective at improving the quality of all types of soils, especially clay and sandy soils and organically deficient soils. The introduction of humic acid to clay or other compacted soils, results in the break-up of these soils allowing for greater water and root penetration. In sandy soils, humic acid adds vital organic material back into the soil, which allows for improved water retention and deeper root development, both of which are lacking on sandy soils.

Humic acid also plays a critical role in the ability of the plants to uptake nutrients. Humic acid has the ability to unlock nutrients in the soil that would otherwise be unavailable to the plant, while also providing the transport mechanism making these nutrients readily available. On a microbial level, humic acid stimulates the beneficial activities of naturally occurring soil microbes. These soil microbes are responsible for solubilizing minerals and nutrients so that they can then be stored by the humic acid and in turn be made available to the plant. Soil microbes are also responsible for the continued production of humus in the soil and the improvement of the soil structure.

With all of the talk of nutrients and humic acid, it could be easy to get it confused with a fertilizer. Humic acid is not a traditional fertilizer, as it does not directly provide nutrients for the plant. However, it should be used as a complement to help improve the fertilizer use and in the long run reduce the need for constant fertilization.

i was going for the quick answer as i am sure he was testing me for some reason, but thanks for all those who did not know this.

for he who asked, we are using the roots truf products humic and fulvic, now owned by lebanon turf

 

Humic Acid is the commercial term often used to refer to the combined humic and fulvic acid content found in naturally occurring decomposed plant and animal residues. The most bio-chemically active humic acid is derived from Leonardite coal, which consists of humified animal and plant substances dating back thousands of years.

Humic acid is effective at improving the quality of all types of soils, especially clay and sandy soils and organically deficient soils. The introduction of humic acid to clay or other compacted soils, results in the break-up of these soils allowing for greater water and root penetration. In sandy soils, humic acid adds vital organic material back into the soil, which allows for improved water retention and deeper root development, both of which are lacking on sandy soils.

Humic acid also plays a critical role in the ability of the plants to uptake nutrients. Humic acid has the ability to unlock nutrients in the soil that would otherwise be unavailable to the plant, while also providing the transport mechanism making these nutrients readily available. On a microbial level, humic acid stimulates the beneficial activities of naturally occurring soil microbes. These soil microbes are responsible for solubilizing minerals and nutrients so that they can then be stored by the humic acid and in turn be made available to the plant. Soil microbes are also responsible for the continued production of humus in the soil and the improvement of the soil structure.

With all of the talk of nutrients and humic acid, it could be easy to get it confused with a fertilizer. Humic acid is not a traditional fertilizer, as it does not directly provide nutrients for the plant. However, it should be used as a complement to help improve the fertilizer use and in the long run reduce the need for constant fertilization.

Barry
What product do you sell that would serve this purpose?

 

i am looking forward to liquid next season. with the new max with the extra tank should cover 200k per tank fill.