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Liquid fertilizers and grub control

Shindaiwa_operator

LawnSite Senior Member
Location
Paxton, NE
Title says it boys! I’ve been throwing dry fertilizer all 4 applications. (Yes I have a very short lawn season here in Nebraska) Been using a 15-0-0 with .20% Merit for grub prevention which had been working very well on the grubs! However, the Nitrogen with NO other micros isn’t doing enough for the lawns. I’m about 80% Kentucky Blue, and some fescue. All cool season very thick turf, 98% of my customers have underground irrigation. But our are is low on iron and sulfur, especially iron! Also, what kind of options do I have for liquid fertilizers?? Any tips or ideas welcome. :nod:
 

takervader

LawnSite Senior Member
Location
Alabama
Soil test and adjust the ratio you're putting down, they wont want 15-0-0 forever. I spray down Axilo Mix 5 for more micros if they arent in the fertilizer, which ideally contains 3% iron, otherwise use a chelate solution in the spray.
 
OP
Shindaiwa_operator

Shindaiwa_operator

LawnSite Senior Member
Location
Paxton, NE
Soil test all 200 yards I spray? Doubt I’ll find that much time... I know basically what our overall soil consists of. I put out a 20-5-10 in April on my first app. I also throw a 22-5-8 on 3rd app end of July that has iron and sulfur in it. It’s the best fertilizer I’m using but leaves orange stains if even 1 or 2 tiny particles are left on the concrete. I’m throwing a 28-5-12 on final fall application right now. Do you spray that mix several times per year?
 

RigglePLC

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Grand Rapids MI
Good points, Takervader.
I suggest that possibly your soil is a bit on the alkaline side--pH over 7.5 perhaps. This would make the iron insoluble--not available.
15-0-0 is fine, but you also need potassium for hardiness and disease resistance.
Soil test is good--however a "tissue test" is better--more expensive, of course. A tissue test uses the green part of the plant. It will read out as parts per million of iron and other minerals.
"Is not doing enough..." just what do you mean? Slow growth? Not green? Do not depend on iron in dry fertilizer--as it may not be soluble--at least not enough to be helpful. Try some various iron products in a liquid sprayed-on form. Iron sulfate is good. Chelates are a lot more expensive, and some are much more effective than others. Sprint 330 is excellent.

 
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Shindaiwa_operator

Shindaiwa_operator

LawnSite Senior Member
Location
Paxton, NE
Yes, slow growth and runs out of “green” within about 3 weeks approx. I think I need to get more micros and also iron out then so thinking of switching to liquid grub prevention with nitrogen and micros. But I battle wind year around so that’s why I first went with dry fertilizer...
 

takervader

LawnSite Senior Member
Location
Alabama
You should soil test nearly all of the lawns at some point, if youre providing full services. $5-15 per sample depending on who you use to do the test. I know Clemson is cheap, Waypoint Analytical can vary based on which test. Bake it into their price if they want the full services. Only need to do one or maybe 2 samples per lawn, then if theres trouble areas maybe another. You particularly may need to know the pH and macro presence, if youre never putting down P, K they may all be deficient and it'll eventually show itself.

My granular fert contains micros and iron, but I will spray down the Axilo probably once a month, maybe every 2.
 

RigglePLC

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Grand Rapids MI
Surely, you are not applying 15-0-0 with Merit four times per year.
I am thinking one 15-0-0 Merit treatment in June is about right.
You probably want a 19-0-6 treatment or something similar for crabgrass in April.
Follow up with a granular fertilizer for your other treatments.
However--if your lawns get green--but it does not last--then you should consider a coated slow-release nitrogen product like XCU 43-0-0. Costs more, but it is better.

When you apply liquid and it is windy--that is a problem. I suggest using a nozzle that applies a large droplet--less drift. A Chemlawn spray gun with the white nozzle is best when wind is a problem. True, it is set up for 4 gallons per thousand sqft--but it works fine at 3 gallons per thousand--just reduce the pressure.
 

LanzaLandscapeFL

LawnSite Member
Location
Forest City, FL
So how many oz / acre or /1000 you using? $70 gal isn’t cheap. But also not seriously pricey.....
High Value Crops and Turf Apply at a rate of 3 oz per 1,000 sq. ft. (95mL per 100 sq. m) for initial treatment, and 1.5 oz per 1,000 sq. ft. (48mL per 100 sq. m) for subsequent treatments. Apply every 21 days for crops and 90 days for turf.
 
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