• LawnSite Homepage Upgrade

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localized dry patch


what's everyone doing about localized dry patch...i have just turned on irrigation and here we go...surfactants....extracts etc...i just did Fe8 with the first cycles..


LawnSite Bronze Member
I've dabbled with the additives and soil amendments with little sucess myself.<p>With all the irrigation nozzles available with todays systems, I can't imagine that enough water cannot be applied to those areas. I mean, they come with 12 nozzles standard with more available so you can point that water at whatever you want and whatever amount you want.


LawnSite Senior Member
Central Florida
Had the same problem at some of my yards and checked there sprinklers. I put in two new gear drive sprinklers at one house and it was getting dry in a spot and the thing wasn't turning took it back. Another one that had professional install hers and she had sprinklers that weren't even covering. So you may just want to check the sprinklers maybe make some extra money.<p><br>Exquisite Lawn Services<br>


LawnSite Bronze Member
South Bend, IN
1- check the irrigation coverage yourself; make sure it is getting watered<br>2- You set the system to irrigate that area with 1/2 to 1 inch of water<br>3- Immediately after irrigation, probe soil to check depth of moisture. If it is still dry, then you probably have one or both of two problems: excessive thatch or hydrophobic soil.<p>Thatch is often the problem at the crest of a hill in full sun most of the day. For thatch, aerate and also apply Primer from &lt;a href=&quot;http://www.aquatrols.com/&quot;&gt;Aquatrols&lt;a&gt;.<p>For hydrophobic soil, apply Primer at label rated intervals. Have actually seen a large area of hydrophobic sandy soil that, once dried out, will pool water on surface and be bone dry under the pool. Primer will break the surface tension and allow water penetration, but must be applied at regular intervals (6 weeks I think).<p>----------<br>Jim<br>North central Indiana