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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Do my mowers suck or do others cutting St. Augustine this time of year have problems with missing blades of grass? I use an older style Toro 36" floating deck and a Toro T-Bar classic hydro 52". The 36" seems to miss more than the 52". I've not used many other brands of mowers for comparison. The grass is growing out of control right now, so maybe everyone has this problem.? If someone has used a Toro and found a kind of blade that limits the problem I'd love to here about it. I'm not talking about when I turn either, I understand why that happens. I'm currently using Toro high-lift blades, but I've also used Gator brand as well. :cry:
 

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A fresh set of super sharp blades and slow down a little. Mine are sharp enough to slice paper like a razor blade. Also, what time of day are you cutting? St. Augustine goes a little limp in the afternoon heat. The grass blades are a little stiffer in the morning and after watering. Another thing, are you overlapping the cut? Try not to put your wheels right on top of the previous wheel path. Let the mower overlap some to allow the vacuum to pull the grass blades up that were bent over by the inside wheels. Sometimes though some of the blades are pushed down by the front of the deck and other blades will hold them down even after cutting. Look back a row you just cut and then look again in a couple a minutes. You'll see more stray blades. I've watched blades just spring upright 5 minutes after I've cut! I know I've got a good sharp blade and a clean crisp cut just by listening to the sound of the blade cutting through the grass. It really makes a different sound.
 

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I have the same problem and have noticed it happens most when we are mowing first thing in the morning and the grass has a lot of dew or sprinkler water that is not yet dry. Only happens where the front wheels of my Dixie Choppers track....no where else and not on my 52 or 36 WB. Sharp blades are a must...we change every day in the summer. It makes such a difference in the quality and helps prevent fungus infections by minimizing brusing or shreading of the blades. We get tons of compliments on how well our lawns look.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I definately try and keep sharp blades. The problem is worst on the shadier areas, but happens in full sun too. I guess I'll keep going over the lawn 'til it looks good. What is a "sharp" blade? The factory edges seem dull to me, so I sharpen new blades. I see everyone say that a blades not sharp when it's tearing the grass, but I've seen very sharp blades tear grass when it's really thick.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Rough Cut, I think it does have to do with the wheels pushing them down. I just wondered if my deck/blades didn't have enough lift or something. I'm always worried I've got bum equipment or something.
 

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I agree with slowing down a bit also. As far a sharp blades...a guy at the dealer here told me to grind down at the same angle as the original blade then run the front edge straight across the fine grinding wheel. Use a flapper wheel or touch-up any overhang with the fine wheel. He said to get about a 1/64" flat across the front of the blade, that it's the corner that does the cutting. If you have a sharp (really sharp) one edge on the bottom it tends to round off quicker and starts tearing up the grass. I tried this and noticed the difference right away. BTW I use an industrial 1HP grinder....check McMaster-Carr if you don't have the money for the blade grinders (which work great) and need something better than what the Orange box sells.
 

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No problem here. We cut it at 3.25 and fly through it. We always make sure we have super sharpe blades. Something that we leaened from running DC's years ago, we sharpen the blades all the way to the center too. That helps out a lot.
 
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