Looking for seeder options

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by Rayholio, Feb 5, 2019.

  1. Stinger Equipment

    Stinger Equipment Sponsor
    Messages: 449

    There are too many factors that you can't control. Only way is years and years of experience trying different methods.

    Comes down to thorough but light see to soil contact.

    Too much direct and the seed won't grow either.

    Hardest thing is control the watering.....when I did it professionally each customer was required to use one of my sprinkler timers. I would have it come on 3 times a day with a impact rotary sprinkler 20-30 after the 1st thorough ground soaking. You want the ground damp inbetween waterings but not so much it doesn't dry out or almost dry out before the next one.

    You do this for 5-7 days and then start backing it way off.

    If you do this the results are amazing. We did this and guaranteed our results. The owner was responsible for watering the rest of the property like we showed them. They could do it manually or with timers.
     
    hort101 likes this.
  2. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 15,262

    Good point, Dave. Guarantee nothing without water. Do not risk non-payment because the customer did not water. An idea: give the customer an inflated bill--and then--offer a hundred dollars discount if they water to keep it wet. Tell them you will come by several times per week to check on the soil moisture--they lose the discount if the soil is even slightly dry. Read their water meter.
    Never tell the customer to avoid over-watering--seldom happens.
    Give the customer a water timer--unless they have automatic irrigation.
    Give the customer a moisture meter. Warn them if you stop to check--and your own identical meter reads medium or below--they lose the discount or rebate.
    https://www.homedepot.com/p/Mosser-Lee-Soil-Master-Moisture-Meter-1220/204373750

    Prdon me for going off on a tangent.
    It is possible to have a fertilizer application hopper on an overseeder, right?

    How do you set the cutter depth? What is the best depth? I would like to see a side by side comparison of results. Quarter inch, half inch, three-quarter inch cutter depth.
    What if you planted clover or Mini-clover (from Outsidepride.com)? In 6 weeks it would be clear which depth worked the best. After bloom you would see white bands of clover.
     
    Last edited: Feb 10, 2019
    hort101 likes this.
  3. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 15,262

    Still hoping to see bands of dark green perennial rye planted by a Stinger seeder in dormant Bermuda. Dark green bands of rye should really show up nice in the fall,(maybe spring) against the brown Bermuda. Would make nice photographs for "Lawnsite" --even better as before and after in a video. On Youtube, of course.
    This could show a comparison with the Ryan or other old-fashioned methods or inferior equipment. If you have to plant clover, well, it should still show up as white stripes as soon as it blooms. Is there another way to make a nice contrast between the old and new-seeded plants? Red colored grass? Blue fescue? Kill the old grass to brown?

    Also, David, maybe your new Stinger Seeder needs a built-in or optional roller.
    https://www.homedepot.com/tool-truck-rental/mobile/Tile-Roller-w-Wheels/14-458/
    This would add a hundred pounds--but it would press the seed firmly in contact with the soil--improving germination by 20 percent--estimated. You could have a "roller-sulky" as an option. I am not that big, but some of the guys could get some extreme pressure--for extreme seed to soil contact.
    Or--arrange the seeder wheels so that they would carry more weight, thereby serving as the roller. Smaller wheels would apply more pressure--maybe 6 small wheels.
     
    hort101 likes this.

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