Mini Z pump or Motor failure test ?

Discussion in 'Hustler Turf Equip (Archived)' started by User Name Taken, Sep 22, 2012.

  1. User Name Taken

    User Name Taken LawnSite Member
    Messages: 92

    I posted in an old thread here but here's my deal. I have a 25/52 mini Z with I think 180 hrs on it. Here for this season I'd say I've been getting a pulse/jerk from the left side while climbing hills. We moved into our new house today and when I went to load the mower the left side was very weak and making noise. I turned it around and made it onto the trailer but when I went to unload I had no response hardly at all from that side and more of the same moan.
    Fluids full, It's mowed a 2 acre home lot for 5-6 years and seeded and plugged with it-that's all. I did the recommended change over to 20-50 oil a few years ago. Of course I call the dealer today and ask the parts salesman what he sells more of/what's more common to go out and he just tells me I need to have the service dept. test it for me to see if it needs a wheel motor or the pump. He prices the parts to me but says I have to call back mon. about the labor. Is there a way I can diagnose it myself? I figure at worst I could buy both and install them myself and be ahead in the money.
    Thanks, Chris
  2. User Name Taken

    User Name Taken LawnSite Member
    Messages: 92

    Had a chance to actually look at it today. I checked, then released the relief valve and then re-tightened it.
    When I tested it it actually did good. The filter housing had signs of seepage so I tightened it a bit more (wasn't really loose or anything but could have been tighter.)
    Read in the manual I was supposed to put 'Lubrizol' in it when I changed it per the manual. Does this still hold true since I swapped it over to the 20w50 ?
  3. RiggitanoLandscape

    RiggitanoLandscape LawnSite Member
    Messages: 23

    The Lubrizol is for the seals on the hydro's. It seems like when you switched out the oil that's the problem. On my mini z that I had, they were using the 10w 40 regular oil, then wanted everybody to go to the 20w50, the problem is synthetic oil does not have a W value or winter value. All synthetic oil is a 0 weight oil, the numbers are their for marketing purpose. Where the regular oil is a 40 weight oil, but will flow like a 10 weight when temps are below freezing. If you start off with regular oil, you should keep it because the seals will get use to having that particular oil inside the seals, The same is true on cars that switch to synthetic oil they start to leak on through the seals. You are probably sucking air through the seal on the filter housing which is why the pressure is dropping.

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