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Mole Traps

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by Bryn, Nov 22, 2010.

  1. Bryn

    Bryn LawnSite Member
    Messages: 209

    For those who are doing mole trapping, what traps are you using? How did you decide on that trap? Did you look at other traps?

    Here a few traps I have found or used:

    Victor Out-O-Sight
    Choker Loop
    Cinch Trap
    Victor Plunger
    Scissor Trap
  2. colby64473

    colby64473 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 38

    I did quite a bit of mole control this year, trapping and using talprid bait. While I did catch a number of moles with traps, I had much better success with the bait. I simply used wire flags to mark where I had placed the bait and checked two days later to see if the bait was gone. I always used rubber gloves and only used 1/2 a worm per run. Most of the moles were gone from the yard in under a week. So, the customer and I assumed the moles to be dead. I then checked the yard 1-2 weeks later to make sure there were no new runs. Trapping required too much actual on site work, even though I could show the mole to the customer. And yes I did use the scissor traps as well as the old plunger style traps.
  3. Bryn

    Bryn LawnSite Member
    Messages: 209

    Interesting Colby,

    I like the fact that you checked the bait location.

    What trap do you have the best success with, the scissor trap or the plunger?
  4. 1966vette

    1966vette LawnSite Member
    Messages: 209

    I faced a major mole problem this year as well.:confused:

    I started out using three traps - 1 scissor trap (1) kill & (2) spike traps (0) kill.

    I then switched to the poisoned worms w/ improved results.:rolleyes:

    1. Used gloves

    2. Carefully removed the dirt from the mole chimney & placed it in a bucket

    3. Ran a garden hose in the mole chimney to make sure it was clear.

    4. Placed the worm in the chimney & gently replaced the dirt making sure the worm was completed covered. The mole should see the poison worn the next time he attempts to remove dirt from this chimney.

    5. Check on it daily & after a few days I did not see any more mole action!:nono::weightlifter:

    However, I do not have a body to confirm a kill! :rolleyes:

    Hope this help!
    Stay in the fight!:drinkup:
  5. rockycrab

    rockycrab LawnSite Member
    from oregon
    Messages: 159

    I've used the bait worms also. Not so happy with them. Hard to justify them just by no new mounds theory.
    We used to use Diazinon on the turf areas and the moles would run away for a year. LOL

    This year I really dialed it in and I can set 6-8 traps on a heavily moled out area in around or under 30 minutes. Usually get my mole or moles in a day. Retrieve the traps and move on. Using the scissor jaw type traps is my favorite method.
  6. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,561

    And...the Nash "Choker Loop" trap works well. No need to use gloves. They take strong hands and some manual dexterity to set. Cut two slits to accomodate the two wire loops. That had to hurt. Gross, but...do you need more pics?



    METRO FS LawnSite Member
    Messages: 48

    Bryn, Victor OOS 99% of the time! BTW, nice chatting with you. I'll shoot the info I spoke of in a few days.

  8. morturf

    morturf LawnSite Senior Member
    from midwest
    Messages: 476

    We use spike traps and worms. Last year I caught 400+ moles and probably wormed another 200. I can do a set with the spike traps in about 5 min. Leave them 3-4 days and pick them up. Now having said that...my spike traps are all 10-20 years old, Not the newer ones that have that nasty side turned spike. It was a bad thing when they redesigned that. I digress. A lot can be done with either and both are very effective.

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