Discussion in 'Lawn Mowing' started by DMC300, Mar 28, 2000.

  1. DMC300

    DMC300 LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 325

  2. CLM1

    CLM1 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 90

    DMC300, I totally redone my own lawn last yr. and the results were absolutly awsome. Everyone was stopping to ask what I had done and used.<br>Then the mole showed up<br>To make a long story short, I'm having to redo about 3500sq.ft..<br>The mole isn't your problem. Your problem is what the mole is eating. Grubs more than likely. Here in N.C. they are an endangered species and you can't do much with them.<br>Get a jump on your grub treatment (if that's the problem) early. Just go looking and poking around in the area to see exactly what the source of food is for the mole.<br>Good luck!
  3. southside

    southside LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 790

    Here in Brisbane,the local council has a good<br>rat control program for the older suburbs in<br>the city.They have a team of very aggressive<br>Fox Terriers which get into burrows,nests,ect. and kill them very quickly. Poisoning is also effective.<br>Maybe you could loan your customer a .308<br>Winchester and let them sort it out. :)
  4. GroundKprs

    GroundKprs LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,969

    Wow, in FL you need a special permit to trap moles for hire. &quot;When the mole tunnels become an intolerable nuisance, moles may be captured and removed without a permit by homeowners, renters, or employees of the property owner. If a lawn service or pest control technician is hired to trap nuisance animals, that person must have a Nuisance Wildlife Permit issued by the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission (FWCC). No poison (bait or fumigant) may be used on native wildlife without a Poison Permit issued by the executive director of the FWCC. Because suitable traps are available for mole control, it is extremely difficult to justify the use of poisons.&quot; For full document , go to &lt;a href=&quot;;&gt;WEC-66&lt;/a&gt;.<p>See also<p>-Only way to know that you have controlled the mole is by trapping. Added benefit is ability to show client that you have accomplished something, even if one of his buddies comes back tomorrow.<br>-The trick to trapping moles is finding active tunnels. See second page of Purdue publication.<br>-To blame presence of moles on grubs is just a way to sell (possibly useless) grub control; moles can be there even when no grubs are present. Many animals, and even some human cultures, consider grubs a delicacy, when they are available. I've never tested that myself, thanks. :) Grub control to correct mole problem ranks with beetle bags for Jap beetles as biggest legends to boost sales.<br>-Sometimes tricky to set trap successfully in sand, but it can be done.<br>-There is a third type of trap &quot;Out O'Sight Mole Trap&quot;, that is a scissor trap set underground. Have to use this one for deeper moles, and have resorted to it in some sandy situations.<br>-Recently introduced &quot;Mole-Med&quot; is a castor oil based product sprayed on lawns for mole control. Have seen reports of it being very effective, but it must be reapplied on a regular basis when moles are active near surface.<br>----------<br>Jim<br>North central Indiana<p>
  5. DTM65

    DTM65 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 52

    I am dealing with mole problems as well and have taken a 3 pronged approach to the little buggers.<p>First, I'm using traps. Sounds like they may not be as effective in your area.<p>Second, grub control. You may want to consider something like Merit in lieu of Diazonin or Durasban cause it only kills things that feed on the roots of your grass. (ie - Doesn't kill the bad bugs.)<p>Third - Started a Castor Oil based treatment for the first time this year and I think I'm seeing some positive results. I sprayed around a 1/2 acre part of my yard and mole activity significantly reduced. You may try to find a industrial supply house supply of Castor Oil. It probably will cost a lot less than when they package it specifically for mole repellent. I've got the mixture recipe if you need it. (Basically Castor Oil, a surfactant (soap) and sprayed on with a hose end sprayer or boom sprayer.) It needs to be watered in though.<p>----------<br>D. Tom<br>
  6. GroundKprs

    GroundKprs LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,969

    Good plan for a home lawn, DTM. Only problem for a lawncare contractor would be writing his own label and MSDS for the castor oil concoction. When the client's pet or child becomes ill shortly after your application, you must be able to supply an MSDS for the vet or doctor. Most of the time the doctor can discount the pesticide application or identify it as the problem immediately, but if you can't supply the MSDS, he doesn't know what chemical is involved, making diagnosis more difficult. Also OSHA regs require business to have MSDS on file for all chemicals used on property. This includes chemicals used by contractors on site.<p>And after label and MSDS, you have to get EPA registration, and then state registration for state(s) you're using it in. Last report I saw, EPA reg alone cost $8 mil, 4 yrs, and paperwork 15' high.<p>----------<br>Jim<br>North central Indiana<br>
  7. DTM65

    DTM65 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 52

    Good point for a contractor. But you still outta be able to get a MSDS from your local industrial chemical supply. Just don't add the surfactant enhancement. From reading the label of one of the popular mole repellents, they state the ingredients as &quot;100% Castor Oil USP&quot;<p><br><p>----------<br>D. Tom<br>
  8. Fist of all you might be misidentifing the<br>critter. It might be actualy a vole.<p>In the northeast the most significant damage<br>is caused by the meadow vole and pine vole.<p>In PA no special permits are needed to apply<br>ZP AG rodent bait to the runs. Since the pest is in the turf a regular lawn license<br>is all that's needed to kill the little buggers.<p>The reason I know this rodent stuff is for<br>lesco had the &quot;rat&quot; lady from Bell Labs<br>present a program with free pesticide credits. One never should turn down free<br>pesticide credits.<p>product info at<br>
  9. gusbuster

    gusbuster LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,010

    I've done all the above and I think the product that DTM65 was talking about was &quot;Mole Med&quot;. Follow their instructions, may have to treat twice, but you will be a good neighbor and pass the problem on. <p>I've used Mole Med and have recommended this product to my clients. Here is the link on the Internet for this product. It is <p><br>Though on the expensive side, a pint of this will cover about 5,000 sq.ft. You have to follow directions. Also I believe they have their own MSDS that you can download.<p>You can always practice your archery or sniper skills also.<p>Also, when I see an existing problem with both gophers and moles, doing a new sod or seed install, I recommend using aviary or chicken wire. The damn pest can dig all they want, but will not go through except for where you have gaps. I.e. seams, cutouts for sprinkler heads.<br>Jean<p><br>----------<br>J-LC Landscaping & Maintenance Gardening<br>C-27 Ca Contr# 770044<br>
  10. Scape Sculptor

    Scape Sculptor LawnSite Member
    Messages: 147

    Harpoon style Mole Trap really is the only cure. Earthworms are their main source of food. Grubs are a delicasy. You need to study their habits and map their tunnels out. Find the tunnel that is straight and long, That is were the trap needs to be set. The squiggly tunnels is were they are foraging for the grubs. Good luck.

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