Most efficient to water 20' X 140'
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If you had enough water, you could use square-pattern mist head nozzles right down the center of the strip. Rainbird still makes them. Not really practical, though. Plain old mist heads at 20 foot triangular spacing is the textbook method, and easy enough to group in zones.
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I would venture that double row square would be the cheapest w/ either a 17 or greater nozzle. Those cheap Hunter PS04/17A's or more money but better heads, RB1804's or Hunter w/ the largest nozzle you can find 18 or 20.
Best in my opinion would be Hunter I-20's w/ the short range (black) nozzles. Square or Triangle spacing. Best (slow) precip rate, and most durable head on the market for this distance. Again just my opinion and ..........Oh, Jon, Mark it on the calendar and take note, I recomended something besides Irritrol
Best in my opinion would be Hunter I-20's w/ the short range (black) nozzles. Square or Triangle spacing. Best (slow) precip rate, and most durable head on the market for this distance. Again just my opinion and ..........Oh, Jon, Mark it on the calendar and take note, I recomended something besides Irritrol
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mp rototators. probly 2000's on 180, mebbe 3000's necked down. depends on pressure.
140 feet long, 20 wide. hmm. one in the corner, go out opposite 20 feet, put a 20 foot radius rotator on a 180. each side will be spaced 40 feet to a head, but staggered.
8 heads or so? if so, that is easily covered in one zone, and with poly the 140 feet is NO problem.
cost in parts: 40 for the nozzles, 16 for bodies, 25 for fittings, 30 for pipe.
110 bucks.
140 feet long, 20 wide. hmm. one in the corner, go out opposite 20 feet, put a 20 foot radius rotator on a 180. each side will be spaced 40 feet to a head, but staggered.
8 heads or so? if so, that is easily covered in one zone, and with poly the 140 feet is NO problem.
cost in parts: 40 for the nozzles, 16 for bodies, 25 for fittings, 30 for pipe.
110 bucks.
Using square spacing it will take a minimum of 16 heads with 18' nozzles if it is protected borders. Sidewalks and/or driveways, fences, buildings, property line.Or the same number of MP 2000 rotators.
If it is unprotected, then you could use 6 rotors, Hunter, Rainbird, or (shudder) Irritrol,<chuckle> along one side. You could also use the MP rotators along one side and get the coverage by throwing a lot of water across the boundry.
Jerry
If it is unprotected, then you could use 6 rotors, Hunter, Rainbird, or (shudder) Irritrol,<chuckle> along one side. You could also use the MP rotators along one side and get the coverage by throwing a lot of water across the boundry.
Jerry
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huh???????
16 heads???
what are you doing, triple covering???????
16 heads means a head more then every 10 feet. wow.
if you do sprinklers with 20 feet radius (the width of the area to be covered) you can put a sprinkler every 20 feet, across from each other.
which means that on a given side, there is a sprinkler every 40 feet.
????????????
doug
16 heads???
what are you doing, triple covering???????
16 heads means a head more then every 10 feet. wow.
if you do sprinklers with 20 feet radius (the width of the area to be covered) you can put a sprinkler every 20 feet, across from each other.
which means that on a given side, there is a sprinkler every 40 feet.
????????????
doug
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140' linear / 20' head spacing = 7 spaces +1 head at the begining or end (depending on how you started counting). So 8 heads per row and two rows for square spacing. 8x2=16 That is the text book way for uniform coverage. Anything less is an amatuer making it work without getting perfect coverage. Triagular spacing on this scenario would only save you one or two heads and would rob coverage on the ends.drmiller100 said:
If you space the heads 20' apart on a side you will have 8 heads on a side for a total of 16 heads.drmiller100 said:
If you install a system with heads spaced 40' apart like you said, you will have dry spots like hell. Take a piece of paper and draw it out. I don't know of a manufacturer that has a recommended head spacing of twice the radius.
Jerry
Watering from the edges in toward the center with head to head (or nearly so) has always done me well. Never have to worry about the water not quite making it to the edge. A nozzle radius of 10' means that during tests that particular nozzle was able to throw a few drops over the 10' ring in the test barn. I'm not going to try and make that nozzle do the same thing in a real-world installation.
I have never had to apologize for using too many heads to provide complete and even coverage. But there were a few instances in the past where I had to explain why there were dry spots in the turf. I'm not going to compromise my reputation so I am going to meet or exceed specifications on an install.
Not to offend, but the only time I have ever seen square nozzles used is by a plumber or a homeowner. My opinion is that they are glorified full circle nozzle, and they still need coverage on the sides.
Jerry R
I have never had to apologize for using too many heads to provide complete and even coverage. But there were a few instances in the past where I had to explain why there were dry spots in the turf. I'm not going to compromise my reputation so I am going to meet or exceed specifications on an install.
Not to offend, but the only time I have ever seen square nozzles used is by a plumber or a homeowner. My opinion is that they are glorified full circle nozzle, and they still need coverage on the sides.
Jerry R
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I haven't used square nozzles in years, but I still have a bag of older Rainbird square nozzles, which actually worked pretty well. I sincerely doubt if any effort is being made to update them, like Rainbird and Toro has been doing with other patterns. They were always extra work to locate and align correctly, to get that coverage into the corners. (and they still had to overspray by a foot or so, just to be certain of solid coverage) They do have the advantage of not being subject to vehicle or snowplow damage.
I think the only time I'd consider using them today is when large old trees with immense surface root systems would make getting pipe and heads into the sidewalk strips a near-impossibility. (and you could just as easily use full-circle heads for that)
If you did want to string square heads down the middle of a side lawn, it would only take one tree in the wrong place to ruin the coverage.
I think the only time I'd consider using them today is when large old trees with immense surface root systems would make getting pipe and heads into the sidewalk strips a near-impossibility. (and you could just as easily use full-circle heads for that)
If you did want to string square heads down the middle of a side lawn, it would only take one tree in the wrong place to ruin the coverage.
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