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moving a retaining wall

Discussion in 'Hardscaping' started by mulchmonkey2000, Sep 26, 2010.

  1. mulchmonkey2000

    mulchmonkey2000 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 42

    what is the best way to attack moving a retaining wall? I have a keystone compac wall that goes from about 2' to 5' back down to 2' over a 100' span. The wall needs to be moved out another 5-6' from where it currently is. The block from the original wall will be reused for the new one. I can get a tractor in from each end to dig for the first course, however that is basically the only access i'll have. What is the best way to safely move this? Should i lay my first course the whole way across? Since i'll be adding 1 extra layer than is there now to maintain the same finished height, then build up from one end working my way across back-filling with stone as i go? This is the only way i think would work that i'll be able to get out all the blocks from the original wall safely. Also would you fill the entire 5-6' with crushed stone since there is already stone 1-2' behind the existing wall? That would be a lot of money in stone it seems. Thanks for the help guys, sorry if my thoughts are a little jumbled, it's been a long day and i've never moved or replaced an existing one this size.....built new, but never moved.
  2. shovelracer

    shovelracer LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,008

    Easiest way is probably to get new block for half the wall, take the new wall about half way up with backfill and everything. The time you will spend relocating the bottom blocks twice and not getting crushed with sliding backfill should easily buy those extra blocks. You say the wall is 5+ feet. Are you planning to use any geogrid?
  3. mulchmonkey2000

    mulchmonkey2000 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 42

    i would like to use the geogrid, there is none used in the current wall, but would feel more comfortable knowing there is some in there. THe only problem is i dunno how i'ld use it the way i was planning on moving across the wall building up as i go instead of the normal course by course.
  4. DVS Hardscaper

    DVS Hardscaper LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,601

    Not really sure which way you're wantin to move it. Left? Right? Back? Forward?

    Your paragragh was kinda hard to follow without sitting here are re-reading and spending 5 minutes trying to understand what it says.

    Goes like this:

    The wall is 5-6' in height???

    Ok, 1st of all an engineer will have to be used. To spec the construction and materials.

    I know you dont wanna hear that. But I'm not a believer in dispensing information that is not professional and correct. The engineer is gonna spec an entire tear out.

    Yes, grid is a must.

    Regardless, you'll have to tear it down completely.

    Then, start over.

    If you wanna do it right - Then Yes, use the proper ingredients (gravel, grid, geo-textile fabric, etc). If you wanna come back and rebuild it 4 yrs from now - then don't use the correct amount of gravel so you can save money. Which the engineer will spec the drainage chimney. And they'll have a drawing on how to wrap the chimney in geo-textile fabric.

    Walls done correctly are not cheap.


    Last edited: Sep 26, 2010
  5. mulchmonkey2000

    mulchmonkey2000 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 42

    sorry for the confusion.....i will be moving the wall forward 5-6' it is also 5-6' tall in the center. I do want to do the wall correct and know i need the stone behind as well as fabric and geogrid. I just thought 5-6' of gravel behind the wall would be a lot compared to the 2-3' i'm used to using.
  6. steve5966

    steve5966 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 210

    First thing, check the local regs on walls. You may or may not need an engineer.

    If you need an engineer, follow his plan. If you don't need one, this is what I would do.
    Since you will be adding another row, use these blocks as your new base. The color difference between new and old will be harder to see. Once your base is in, just move blocks from one wall to another. I would play it on the safe side and do three rows of geo, probably six feet behind the wall. Without knowing the the soil where you are at this is just a guess. Use drain tile behind the wall, with a hundred foot length, daylight it three times. The only reason to use drain tile is because it's "usual and customary" it really serves no purpose, but makes people feel better.
    Around here I can get clean recycled concrete delivered for eleven dollars a ton, so that is what I would use for the backfill.

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