My First Wall

Discussion in 'Landscape Architecture and Design' started by Husky, Aug 18, 2004.

  1. Husky

    Husky LawnSite Member
    Messages: 176

    I've never done a wall before! Person approached me while I was doing work next door to them.. This is what they want...

    Looking at the house you can see a walk way with a flower bed on the left and right,,comes out bout 2' from the house.

    THe grade falls rather dramatically from front to rear of the home. and the sides slope decently on all four corners of the home away from it..

    Looking at the home on the left side is where a 13' in diameter wall will be built hugging the corner of the porch on the home. So its actually 3/4 of a circle if you get my drift..

    I've never done it,,but I am wanting to dry badly..

    the height at its highest will be about 16 inches tops! and tapper smaller around the side and front of the home approach the other bed in the front.

    How Do I go about bidding this,,,and how do or would I go about doing it.

    I know I should level the first row,,and that is one of the most important things...

    She likes the small,,looks like slate, stone as a wall....

    Please guys give me any suggestions about building and bidding, I will be at the house saturday to make a bid.....

    Its small enough where I want to try it..and I think it will be a safe first start...
  2. Kevinrmac

    Kevinrmac LawnSite Member
    Messages: 16

    Back in April I installed a relatively small wall (~15-18 feet long, on a hill so that it stepped down. height 6-24") around a bed using the small landscaping stones. I would imagine the prep work would be similar. Like you said, making the base row level is important. I dug out about 5 inches deeper than I wanted the base row to be, and put down about 3-4 inches of crush and run, and packed it in tight, then put down about 1-2" of sand, and packed that. Then started my base row. About every 2 layers (8-10 inches of height) i would back fill with sand, and soil. Oh yeah, I put the weed block fabric between the block and the back fill to allow water to come through, but help prevent the sand and dirt from coming through.

    Hope that helps.
  3. brentsawyer

    brentsawyer LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 663

    Laying the first row with block is both important and time consuming buy well worth the patience. I have done several walls and have gotten much quicker in laying the base course and can now lay about 15-18 an hour if all excavating and gravel is laid, so figure out how much time that will take, you will probably be in the neighborhood of 5-8 per hour depending on how fast you can figure out a method that works for you. If doing a circle, the time needed is almost double for a perfect circle with center line with every block equal distance from a center point. Usually I do these only if I'm doing the entire landscape since homeowners don't realize the time envolved and are reluctant to pay as well as compared to planting. For instance I have a small wall 4 courses on the corner of my house and is about18' long, that took a good deal of time with excavating, picking up block, picking up gravel and gluing top row and cutting and then of course refilling with soil and usually planting a tree in there It should pay $1,000 for the time and effort but seldom does.
  4. Husky

    Husky LawnSite Member
    Messages: 176

    This wall is going to end up like 23 ft or so,,how do i go about charging for this wall...

    oh and its the stone that is real flat and is only bout 1" in width..

    also,,,the left and right sides of the wall are lower than the middle,,which is the highest part of the do i stak it here,,do i just dig out the place where the wall will go and do a step type stacking?
  5. Husky

    Husky LawnSite Member
    Messages: 176

    hopefully ill get more comments on this subject soon...
  6. MarcusLndscp

    MarcusLndscp LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 634

    The type of wall you speak of will be quite easy to construct because your stone is so consistent in size. First things first...compaction and drainage. Depending on your climate you will want a good base, in new england we stick to a good 12" of crushed gravel compacted in lifts. Depending on what you are retaining you will need good drainage, sometimes a pipe to daylight, sometimes all washed stone or both is best. You will want fabric to seperate your stone and soil. If it's just a small wall with not much to speak of for hydraulic pressure behind it maybe you don't need drainage as a dry laid wall will allow water to percolate through the front of it naturally. A few things to consider.......always break your joints so the seams between rocks don't line up as you stack it, visually level each stone as you build, batter of the face of the wall, and aesthetically different sizes and shapes of the stone usually look really nice compared to using pieces that are uniform thickness and length all the way through. As far as your grade change goes you have two options. One would be to taper the top of it from high to low either direction which can be a little tricky or simply put a step in the wall to accomodate the change in elevation. Good luck

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