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My Full-Tilt-Boogie Restoration on My 2002 Exmark Lazer Z HP Mower

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141K views 296 replies 50 participants last post by  bradhoffman  
#1 ·
Hello, Everyone,

I thought it might be fun to post some photos of the restoration work I'm doing on my Exmark zero turn mower.

Before we get going, some background.

The mower was manufactured in 2002 by Exmark, a zero-turn builder in Nebraska. It is a 52-inch cut Lazer Z HP powered by a 23 hp Kawasaki motor.

I've owned this mower for approximately eight years. I bought the mower used off of eBay. It came from a town about 100 miles from where I live in Alabama. I had the advantage of not having to bid against a whole bunch of prospective buyers as one might find in a large metropolitan area. Consequently, I was the sole bidder on the machine, and I won it for the reserve price.

I have forgotten just how many hours it had when I bought it, however, now, in October of 2015, it only has 551 total hours. I'm just guessing, but I'd say the mower had about 200 to 225, or so hours when I bought it. I paid $2,500. I seem to recall reading somewhere that this model mower had a list price of about $7,800 in 2002. The seller had several small businesses, and it was my understanding that he used the mower to tend to his properties. It never was used commercially in the sense of someone using it to mow accounts.

During the time I've had it I've used it to mow my lawn and the lawns of six houses and two vacant lots, all of which I own. These nine properties are all adjoining, therefore, I have no need to move the mower about on a trailer.

Although the mower has relatively low hours, especially considering its age, it has suffered a good bit of neglect – practically all of which has been cause by me, the owner. Incidentally, I don't think anyone has operated it other than me during my term of ownership.

Much of the neglect has been caused by, I hate to say it, ignorance and laziness on my part. And in addition to that, the mower has never been in covered storage, thus rain and the elements and lots and lots of sunshine have taken their toll on the mower.

Amazingly, the mower has only required the replacement of the push-pull blade engagement switch and one new gas cap. I won't go into how I forgot to screw the cap back on and how it vibrated off. I will say I was impressed at just how far a gas cap will sail after mowing over it. The mower has had fairly regular oil and filter changes, greasing, replacement air filters, a battery or two and several sets of new blades.

Despite the inattention and constantly being outside in the elements, the mower has never failed to start and perform except on one occasion when I had to replace the battery. Once a new battery was in, it returned to being ole reliable. It still has the belts and spark plugs it had when I bought it.

I suppose it would not be surprising to know that the seat has probably caused me more minor problems than anything else on the mower. The vinyl, in the last year or two, has become stiff and much less pliant than it originally was. But the biggest trouble has been that the staples used to hold upholstery to the inside wood rusted in two. So a couple of years ago I disassembled the seat and replaced the wood. While the seat was apart I also made a weld repair to the backrest metal pan to fix a split in the metal.

And as a quick aside, my background has been in newspaper writing and editing, and following that, I operated for 15 years a business that restored antique automobiles. Many of the techniques I learned while doing that are being used on this Exmark restoration.

I have been thinking for a number of months I ought to tend to some of the neglected areas on my Exmark as a preventative measure rather than fixing things after they break.

I decided I'd start by working on the mower deck. The spindle bearings are the originals and I couldn't help but notice the extra noise they were making the past several times I used the mower. Also, the blades themselves were dull and beat up, so they needed replacing.

And speaking about the blades, I have found a great use for the old beat-up blades I used to throw away. Here's what I have been doing. Some time back I realized that the center hole in my Exmark blade was the same size as the hole in the blade on my Tru Cut push edger. When I discovered this I started using my metal-cutting chop saw to cut the old mower blades so that they are the exact same length as a never-used edger blade using the center hole as a point of alignment. The now-shortened mower blades last much longer than the edger blades I used to buy. How much longer? I'd say they last at least 5 times as long.

Now, back to the Exmark project. Once I had the deck out from under the chassis, I started giving everything a good, visual inspection. Immediately I noticed that a spacer used to position one of the idler pulleys had a lot of wear. Further inspection revealed that the belt guide plate had a groove in it from where a pulley had ridden against it for quite some time. I already knew one of the five anti-scalp wheels had gone missing. There were several other things I found that either were a problem now or would become a problem in the not-so-distant future. Finally, I saw places, most particularly along some of the factory welds, where the powder-coat finish had flaked off and rust was beginning to appear.

And this was just the deck. I'm going to need to think long and hard about the project I'm considering.

Next time: My plan of attack.

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#2 ·
To get started, I decided to work first on the mower deck.

I knew I needed new bearings for the spindles so I removed the blades and then unbolted the spindle housings. Once off, I broke the spindles down into individual parts. The bearings were indeed shot. I degreased everything and put it all aside.

I also removed all the pulleys. When I came to the idler pulley, I found that the spacer had deep rust pits, so a replacement went on my “buy” list.

Off came the anti-scalp wheels, the discharge chute, the deck-lift chains, the struts and pivots, the belt shields, and so on until everything was removed from the deck.

Initially I figured I would use a wire wheel to skin off the old powdercoating on the deck, but I found the stuff was really on there. So rather than wasting any more time, I began piling up parts to deliver to the sandblaster. I also made arrangements with a local powdercoat shop to work their magic as soon as the sandblaster completed his work.

I wanted to have the deck powdercoated in the same bright red as the Exmark factory used. I delivered the just-blasted deck, both of the belt covers, the discharge chute mount as well as a few other parts to the powdercoater.

During the disassemble process, I found:

Two idler pulleys had rough-turning bearings.
A deep groove that cut about half-way through the belt-guide plate.
A broken roller bushing on one of the anti-scalp wheels.
Several badly rusted pulley spacers.
I also discovered that the bolt that serves as the anchoring point for the heavy duty expansion spring had been eaten away so that only about one-third of the bolt's original thickness remained.
Many of the nuts and bolts were rusty, although this wasn't a surprise at all.
Finally, I knew the anti-scalp wheels were showing a fair bit of wear, so I added them to my shopping list.

When I got the muffler and exhaust pipe removed I began the task of skinning off the entire rusty surface until I came to bright metal. I have posted a photo of the muffler when about half of it was stripped down. Once completely done, I sprayed on several coats of VHT FlameProof Primer, following the maker's directions. That was followed by several coats of VHT Flat Aluminum. The primer and paint must be oven cured following a heat up and then cool down process that goes for three rounds. I was impressed with the end result, and just to test it, I used a torch flame to turn a small area cherry red and the paint showed zero results of my torture test.

Over the course of several days I continued the disassembly process, working until the main frame (see photo) was picked bare. I'll degrease this before taking it to the sandblaster.

As I did my disassembly work I was surprised in one way, and not surprised at all in another, at the amount of rust on the various nuts and bolts used to bolt the entire outfit together. For the most part, the fastening hardware was simply zinc-plated nuts and bolts. I was surprised how some fasteners had virtually zero rust while other pieces were covered by plenty of surface rust. Hardly surprising with the mower staying outside all the time, I suppose.

In order to combat this I decided I'd use stainless steel fasteners exclusively. I took my Exmark Parts Manual, and went through each parts group with a fine-tooth comb. I made a list, jotting down each type of fastener I came to in so far as the bolt size, the particular thread for that bolt and the fastener length. I used tally marks to keep track of the numbers needed. Once I had an inventory list I went to Albany County Fasteners (www.albanycountyasteners.com) of Sayreville, N.J., and put in the number totals I needed for each fastened I recorded. In a few instances, I found I might need just one of a certain kind of bolt. In other cases, 5/16 nuts, for example, I found it easier and more economical to order in lots of 100. Anyway, I placed my online order on a Sunday evening and received everything in hand on Wednesday.

I liked ordering all the nuts and bolts bolts from one source. I was able to buy the exact number of whatever bolt I needed from Albany County Fasteners, they came bagged with the size on the outside, and just two fasteners were on backorder, and those arrived two days later on Friday.

All total, when weighed together, the total weight for all the stainless fasteners was 17 and 1/2 POUNDS! (See photo)

And finally, let me tell you that this deck (52-inch cut) is one heavy hunk of steel. The guys who unloaded it at the powdercoat shop could barely believe how heavy it is.

Next time: Parts back from the powdercoater.

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#8 ·
subscribed this is something i always wanted to do as well never enough time
 
#13 ·
Today I did a bunch of small, but essential tasks in getting the rest of my parts and pieces ready to go to the sandblaster.

One of the things I had not done yet was remove the four zerk fittings on the deck height anchor point on the front frame. I also discovered I had not tapped out the upper races for the caster wheel bearings, so I did that as well.

I decided I would spray a liberal dose of degreaser on the front frame, top and bottom, and the same on the main frame. While my sandblaster does a very thorough job, I figured it would be to my advantage to get as much grease and grime off the frame as I could. Because grease is an enemy of practically every paint product, I thought it would be best not to have the blaster move any more of the gunk around than absolutely necessary.

Another reason I decided to do this major tear down is so I can have all the little rust places tended to. Worst among these was the bottom of the battery tray (see photo). There still was 90 percent or better of the structural integrity on the tray, but given time, it would only get worse.

I also knocked the lug studs out of the rear hubs (see photo) so they would not get sandblasted or powdercoated. Another thing I have done throughout is ream out all the grease point passages using a thin wire (see photo) followed by degreaser and a parts-brush scrubbing. It probably took eight or 10 ream outs and degreasings before everything was truly clean.

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#16 ·
I worked some on my Exmark wiring harness today. For the most part, my harness was in fairly good condition. The biggest problem I found was lots of places where the original electrical tape that was used every few inches had become brittle and while it was holding, it wasn't holding very well.

I pulled all of this old tape off and while it was off, I used lacquer thinner on a rag to clean all of the wires. Apparently the lacquer thinner not old cleans off the dirt and dust, it also cleans up any sticky places where the old electrical tape left its mark. I also think it eats off the tiniest little layer of the colored wire insulation, because the wires all look so much brighter.

I also cleaned up the convoluted plastic wire coverings. These are the ribbed plastic tubes that the wires are tucked into as additional protection.

It was nice to find that my mower's harness had never been molested. All the plug-ins were original, and other than being dirty (see photo), were in reasonably good condition. I found one wire that had come in contact with the exhaust pipe, I suppose, and it had a burn place in the insulation (see picture). I slipped a piece of heat-shrink tubing over the entire exposed part of that wire to provide both insulation for the exposed places as well as to give protection for the future. I also noticed the insulation on the positive and negative battery cables had drawn back just a bit (see picture) so I decided to add a short piece of heat shrink to cover that bare area between where the insulation stopped and the terminal lug. I disconnected each of the male-female connections and sprayed degreaser down into both sockets and let it work to break down the old dielectric grease applied by the factory. After a while, I sprayed both parts of the connection with more degreaser and squirted clean with my wife's (shhhhh, don't tell her!) kitchen sprayer and hot water.

Once everything was all **** and span, I tape wrapped all the points where wires forked out of the harness to go to their various switches of plug-ins.

I have never used any of the "liquid electrical tape" before but I decided to buy a can of it to use to help make the harness as water tight as possible. I'll probably apply this in the next few days. I'll report on that step later.

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#17 ·
Here are a few more pictures of some of the parts and pieces off of my 2002 Exmark Lazer Z HP.

Shown are:

The rear wheel brake bands.

The bare Kawasaki FH680V engine.

Nasty parts off of the motor awaiting cleanup.

The restored hydraulic hoses.

Grease fittings in the sonic cleaner.

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#18 ·
Today I spent a little more time working on parts and pieces directly associated with the Exmark's Kawasaki FH680V engine.

Previously I had stripped it down and really did a cleanup job on it. It was dirty enough, but I figured it was going to be lots nastier than it actually was. I used Purple Power degreaser full strength to do the cleaning. Once it was as clean as it was reasonably possible to do I masked off the various "entrances" (spark plug, oil filler tube, oil filter, etc.) and applied a very thin coat of VHT's Flame Proof primer. Once that was good and dry, I applied the first of two light dust coats of VHT's Flame Proof aerosol coating. Once these were dry, I came back and added the third recommended coat, this coat being a heavier color coat.

Between the various coats of primer and high temp aluminum color coats, I cleaned and degreased the stator then flooded it off using a kitchen sprayer. Next I dried it in front of a pedestal fan, that job taking less than a minute. Later I slicked up the contact points on the stator using a wire wheel on a bench grinder to remove all traces of rust that might hinder the charging system.

I also cleaned the oil fill tube, inside and out and did a good cleaning on the dipstick. The underside of the dipstick cap had a good bit of crud, so I did some degreasing there and now it looks like new.

I also worked on the coils and spark plug wires, removing the rust and cleaning off all traces of dirt and grime. I did the same to the voltage regulator and to the top and bottom plates of the starter. I also degreased the three pieces of the engine shrouding and the air filter cover and the fan housing.

Shown in the photos are:

Stator with dirt and crud as removed.

Stator drying in front of pedestal fan.

Stator with cleaned contact points.

Engine after cleaning.

Engine with primer coat.

Cleaned dip stick cap.

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#20 ·
You are right on that, Cuts. Funny thing how I've got all this junk in my SIX garage stalls, but no place for the mower, my high school Camaro, my wife's Mercedes, my truck, the Harley, etc. Sometimes I just look at the mess that I've got tucked away in these spaces and I think, if I had to buy all this stuff, I wouldn't give $200 for everything! But yeah, I've got it stored out of the weather all right! I've got to make some changes in my life!
 
#21 ·
You are right on that, Cuts. Funny thing how I've got all this junk in my SIX garage stalls, but no place for the mower, my high school Camaro, my wife's Mercedes, my truck, the Harley, etc. Sometimes I just look at the mess that I've got tucked away in these spaces and I think, if I had to buy all this stuff, I wouldn't give $200 for everything! But yeah, I've got it stored out of the weather all right! I've got to make some changes in my life!
?? What model year is the Camaro, I am not far from you and could help you make some space.
 
#22 ·
Hello, Falcon,

The Camaro is a 1975. I got it in May of 1975 as a high school graduation gift. Actually, I paid $1,200 that I had saved up from, you guessed it, mowing yards, most of which were $3 a yard or maybe $5 for a big one. Using my dad's Lawnboy mower. Mom and dad paid the rest, a whopping $2,000. $3,200, out the door, brand new. This got me a brand new 1975 Chevrolet Camaro, 250 cid inline 6, automatic trans and a radio with an 8-track. I got the car on a Thursday and put new Crager SS mags on it Saturday morning. I've kept it all these years, and Alabama lets me register it with my original 1975 license plate that for some reason I kept. I also have a 1967 Pontiac my dad bought new that we went on vacation to Mexico and to Yellowstone in and that I drove to the senior prom. I got my driver's license in the Pontiac and we brought my daughter home from the hospital in it. Ah, the memories!
 
#23 ·
Tomorrow I plan to take my second, and last, load to the sandblaster to have everything cleaned and all the paint removed. This load includes the wheels, the rear frame and front frame, the roll bar, the seat frame, a raft load of brackets, and all sorts of other parts and pieces.

Friday and Saturday I spent some times masking up the valve assemblies and the other openings on the engine block. Once that was done, I applied, following the VHT people's directions for the flat aluminum paint, the paint on the engine. (See the photo.)

While the motor was all stripped down and before I did the degreasing work, I decided to lay the motor in a position for a couple of days so that every drop of engine oil that would come out, dripped out. When it reached the point no other oil would come out, I carefully poured about two gallons of diesel fuel (a little bit at a time) into the various openings (oil filler, oil filter, etc.) on the engine to flush out the interior of the engine and let it run out. I watched to see if any trash or anything other than oil-tainted diesel fuel came out. I never saw anything other than the discolored diesel fuel. Like I did before, I positioned the motor in a way that the diesel fuel would slowly drip out. I left it like this until it wouldn't drip any more. As soon as I get the painting done I'll pour in and slosh about a quart or so of Mobil One engine oil and let it stay in there until the time I'm ready to do the real oil filling in preparation for getting it running again.

Thanks everyone for reading!

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#26 ·
We've had a good bit of rain for the past several days so my sandblaster isn't able to blast when it is wet outside but it was dry today so I'm hoping he will give me a call tomorrow and tell me the parts are ready for pickup.

Meanwhile, I bought a screen for the motor flywheel on eBay and it arrived today. I saved a good bit of money compared to ordering it from an Exmark parts supplier. The piece was brand new, in the plastic. The old one, as you can see in the photos, was damaged.

Thanks for reading, everyone!

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