My lawnmower IS a chipper too!!!

I have this idea for a winter project to take a 52" Toro walkbehind and drill a 2 1/2 in hole in the deck with a holesaw. My idea is to drill the hole directly over the center blade where the sharpend part of the blade would connect with the wood.

Does anyone have a source to get a flange to mount in the deck so a metal pipe can be screwed in to use as a chipper when needed and a cap can be in place the rest of the time.

I just want something to chip up the dead fall so I don't have to take it away.

This should work with double blades since the blade that cuts the wood is in the spindle cradle.

Comments please.


LawnSite Senior Member
NE Ohio

You can buy a threaded end piece that mounts flush to a wall (HD has them). Then tap the h4 holes in the deck and bolt it to your deck. This will allow you to screw a pipe into it for your chipper and you can put an end cap on it to seal it off. You'd have to use a small middle piece of pipe which was threaded on each end.

Boy I confused myself on that, but I hope you'll get the jist of what i'm saying.
The mention of HD just gave me the idea of using a wall plate from a home central vac system which should be a HD stock item. Then I can just use a peice of PVC pipe inserted into the vac flange.

This way there is no end cap to lose but there might have to be some spacers fabricated so the blade does not hit the
wall flange with the pipe inserted.


LawnSite Fanatic
Syracuse, NY
I would like to see how this turns out also
I have had the chance to work with many chippers over the years, and for the most part they use some type of bed knife backing system, to cut against.
And material is generaly fed in at a angle to the blades and bed knife.
how would it work without one in place ?
keep us updated here, I would like to know

Richard Martin

LawnSite Fanatic
Greenville, NC
In addition to what mowerconsultant said the better chippers also have a very heavy flywheel to assist the engine when chipping longer branches. Mine has a 60lb flywheel.


LawnSite Bronze Member
lawrence stone wrote:
"Comments please."

Huh?! What ever happened to "comments from you lower subovians not welcomed" or "opposing viewpoints not welcome."

You're going soft.

Anyway, do the following:
1.) Sharpen the blade as usual. Then on the blade that's doing the grinding: Sharpen FROM BOTTOM. That way the sharp edge will hit the wood 1st.
2.) Position your stick feeder close to the center of the hub without hitting the blade holder. This will minimize over-torquing your power source.
3.) Put a plate just above your top sharpened to act as a shear. You don't want to be hacking at the wood like a rotary mower, you'll need 2 parts to shear it like a real mower or pruner (or real wood chipper)

You'll find your idea won't work to good because you need more weight on the blade spindle. (like a flywheel.) But for small twigs it may be acceptable if you follow my instructions precisely.

Oh, yeah,
Opposing viewpoints and comments not welcome. ;)


LawnSite Platinum Member
Larry, Can you say O.S.H.A. ?

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