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My lawnmower IS a chipper too!!!

4K views 21 replies 18 participants last post by  Guest 
#1 ·
I have this idea for a winter project to take a 52" Toro walkbehind and drill a 2 1/2 in hole in the deck with a holesaw. My idea is to drill the hole directly over the center blade where the sharpend part of the blade would connect with the wood.

Does anyone have a source to get a flange to mount in the deck so a metal pipe can be screwed in to use as a chipper when needed and a cap can be in place the rest of the time.

I just want something to chip up the dead fall so I don't have to take it away.

This should work with double blades since the blade that cuts the wood is in the spindle cradle.

Comments please.
 
#2 ·
Larry-

You can buy a threaded end piece that mounts flush to a wall (HD has them). Then tap the h4 holes in the deck and bolt it to your deck. This will allow you to screw a pipe into it for your chipper and you can put an end cap on it to seal it off. You'd have to use a small middle piece of pipe which was threaded on each end.

Boy I confused myself on that, but I hope you'll get the jist of what i'm saying.
 
#3 ·
The mention of HD just gave me the idea of using a wall plate from a home central vac system which should be a HD stock item. Then I can just use a peice of PVC pipe inserted into the vac flange.

This way there is no end cap to lose but there might have to be some spacers fabricated so the blade does not hit the
wall flange with the pipe inserted.
 
#5 ·
I would like to see how this turns out also
I have had the chance to work with many chippers over the years, and for the most part they use some type of bed knife backing system, to cut against.
And material is generaly fed in at a angle to the blades and bed knife.
how would it work without one in place ?
keep us updated here, I would like to know
 
#7 ·
lawrence stone wrote:
"Comments please."

Huh?! What ever happened to "comments from you lower subovians not welcomed" or "opposing viewpoints not welcome."

You're going soft.

Anyway, do the following:
1.) Sharpen the blade as usual. Then on the blade that's doing the grinding: Sharpen FROM BOTTOM. That way the sharp edge will hit the wood 1st.
2.) Position your stick feeder close to the center of the hub without hitting the blade holder. This will minimize over-torquing your power source.
3.) Put a plate just above your top sharpened to act as a shear. You don't want to be hacking at the wood like a rotary mower, you'll need 2 parts to shear it like a real mower or pruner (or real wood chipper)

You'll find your idea won't work to good because you need more weight on the blade spindle. (like a flywheel.) But for small twigs it may be acceptable if you follow my instructions precisely.





Oh, yeah,
Opposing viewpoints and comments not welcome. ;)
 
#12 ·
The concept is a good one but why not just run over the deadfall. I hit all the dead stuff with my Chopper......woops, I forgot you.........O.K. Larry, give it a try. I would be very careful not to stand over the stick being fed in though as it might come flying back at you.

If it can happen, it usually does.

Best suggestion, buy a chipper!

Or a Chopper!!!!LOL

Homer
 
#14 ·
I think you fell off your sit down sulky one too many times. This won't work. You don't have a heavy enough flywheel to achieve the results you are looking for. Besides, dead wood cuts much harder than wet/green wood. The first time you feed a 1 1/2" to 2" piece of wood into your mower blades from the top you will probably break your wrist or elbow. Then you will need to replace your blades and maybe a spindle bearing. I think you are flirting with danger and extreme physical harm. Wake up and smell the coffee.

 
#16 ·
Larry : As a Mechanical Designer, I must tell you thet you are flirting with disaster. But if you must proceed with this project. DO NOT USE PVC, CPVC or any other form of plastic. IT is not strong enough. Go to MCmaster-Carr's website and purchase a 1" threaded Flange and a 6" long threaded nipple and cap. At least that way you won't be in the ER having PVC fragments and splinters removed for your Anatomy. Item No. 68185k114 is a suitable flange. JOhn
 
#17 ·
Mike I sleep very well for I just started taking Valerian root an hour before bedtime. I use the GNC herbal plus brand taking one 500mg capsule.

With Lazers ideas I can make this work to fit my needs.

On a 52" with a older traction unit (16hp Magnum)that does not have a dead man control on the t-bar I will mount the vac outlet about half way to the tip.

On the downwind side of the hole I will mount to the deck with bolts and lock nuts a bit of heavy angle iron that will
act as the anvil to the blade that is sharpened in the middle upsidedown.

A foot long piece of pcv pipe with a rubber collar on top will act as a funnel.

Now in the spring I can clean the tine rake and run the twigs and small branches right thru the meat grinder with no
visable waste left behind.
 
#20 ·
Stone, I suggest you take some before and after pics so the surgeon will know how to put you back together after.
I think I would buy a chipper vac before I would try this. We have a 12' mower for doing our apple orchard prunings, it is pulled with a 45 hp Kubota, has 3/4' thick double blades on it and it still scares the **** out of me to run it over branches. We also have plexiglass schield to protect the driver, it's been broke twice now.
I think this one is one for the scrubs.
I know it seems like a good idea but you will need to mount some good guards to keep the slivers from flying out and maiming you.
 
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