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My new building

Discussion in 'Christmas Trees & Seasonal' started by David Gretzmier, Jan 19, 2010.

  1. David Gretzmier

    David Gretzmier LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,645

    Started accumulating materials for my new building for Christmas lights and landscape lights. this will be build along side of my current building and may be the first photo's I post on lawnsite online. Just thought you guys would like to follow along on the cost and time for me to build what I could afford. This also will kind of be my journal as well, letting me remember and look back ( as I often do here ) to help me not repeat mistakes, but try to make new ones !. I will try to take photo's of the pile of wood today and the jobsite.
  2. mulchmaster

    mulchmaster LawnSite Member
    from ohio
    Messages: 212

    Sounds good, you know we like pics!
  3. David Gretzmier

    David Gretzmier LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,645

    no pics yet, but a long run down and some costs so far.

    way back last year I originally I had planned on a 30x90 building to go beside my 30x90 building. or maybe a huge 60x100 building to go over my current one and tear the other down. I actually thought my building was 30x100, but I walked it off and though it was closer to 30x90.

    my current building is 9 foot tall at the sides, has trusses every 10 feet inside and goes up to a 13 or so foot height in the middle peak. It has an office, a few closets, a bathroom, but I have pretty much maxed out the storage space inside.

    I like to think of cubic footage when you start thinking of rack space for Christmas light storage- Aisles are neceesary, as are offices, bathrooms, employee clock in, vending machines, tools, vehicle chemical junk, but not storage, just wasted space. really, what you want is rack space.

    my cubic rack space is currently ( I'm adding it up here myself) in feet- 32x8x13,100x4x9, 4x8x4, 4x8x8,4x12x9,4x12x9,4x25x9,4x20x9,8x24x9. that total of cubic footage is- 11524 cubic foot of rack space per 2640 square foot building. oh, by the way, when you actually measure my building, it is only 88 foot long. not 90. go figure. still, when you figure the building is an average of 10 feet tall, you'd think that aout of 26400 available cubic feet you'd do better. but I don't.

    and the results are pretty firm here, 180 properties give or take, with all thier stuff and the rack space you need to support that stuff ( the mentioned office, bathroom, and bulbs, spare parts, don't count, but your new inventory space to house items ordered but not put up do- takes about 64 cubic feet per customer. 11524/180=64. so the big question is, how does the new building add up in terms of how many customers can I add with the new building?

    The good news is in the current building I already have an under used office space that could easily house 2 workers if the vending machines were moved out. The bathroom space is adequate, and I have a 2nd bathroom area that is currently being used as an employee uniform and lock down area ( I have the key to the lock). I also have a clock in area that can handle up to 16 guys uncomfortably.

    so the new building can be mostly storage, with maybe a pull in area for the boxvans for us to work on them. The tough thing is, I need to start thinking about loading and unloading vehicles, rather than just parking them and storing folks stuff. so the new building will have 5 side "bay" doors for trucks to back up to and park at night, plus a front door to pull a truck into or to park a 6th truck to load/unload. All the doors will be added in the future. let's look at layout-

    the new building will be 34 wide x 88 long. 19 foot tall at the sides with a 24 foot peak. I have planned racks of 76x4x19 along one wall that abuts the old building, ( 1 4 foot walk and one 8 foot garage door connects the buildings and must be open), a 6 foot aisle, and a mega 76 long x 10 wide 22 foot tall double sided rack. the other 14 foot and the 88 foot length of the building is open for interpretations and loading/working area for now. the 12 foot x 12 foot garage door will be on that side and allow a pull in for box van work.

    post here to save-
  4. David Gretzmier

    David Gretzmier LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,645

    so, without other racks, what does this give me in terms of rack cubic footage? I have went as tall as I can, ( as I can afford anyway) , and I cannot make the building any longer or wider without losing the ability of trucks to back up to the side of the building. If you do the math- 76x4x19 and 76x10x22, you get 22500 or so in cubic footage in racks. or basically double what I curently have for 180 properties.

    so although that theoretically means I can store another 340-360 properties, I have always said the realistic largest size of my business is about 400 properties anyway. since I lose 5-10% every year ( and a bit more this year, closer to 15% ) when 10% of my business is 40 properties, or at 400 or so, I will be losing as many as I gain in new.

    so the new building should be big enough.
  5. David Gretzmier

    David Gretzmier LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,645

    costs so far-

    existing concrete pad- free- was there when I bought the building. yay !
    labor and dump fee to tear off carport that was hooked to existing building- 150
    16, 22footx6x6 treated posts 56 each or about 1000 bucks
    12 22footx6x6 treated posts 96 each or 1200 or so bucks ( yeah, story there)
    47 8 footx2x12 rough cut oak- headers, 8 bucks each or 350 or so bucks. 3 were free.
    29 8footx3x6 rough cut oak- knee braces, 6 bucks each or 168 bucks. 1 free

    about a 100 of mixed 16 and 18 foot 2x4's for purlins on roof trusses and used for stakes for the 6x6 posts til concrete hardens and headers are bolted in. 500 bucks

    1 box 3 1/2 inch air framing nails_ tack in headers and knee braces 50 bucks

    1 box of 325, 3/8 x4 lag bolts 50 bucks+shipping ( wholesalebolts.com and below)- 4 to each truss and anchor knee braces to headers and posts.

    2 boxes of 75 each, 5/8 x 10" grade 5 bolts and nuts to match, 300 bucks+shipping.

    more to spend, but that is what I spent, THIS WEEK !

    total so far- 3768.

    planned spending before I leave out of town for consulting gig and cruise on friday- new gutters on old building- 500-600 bucks,

    pay guy to drill and set poles- some holes are dug, some need to be cut and dug, waiting on "other" poles-aprox 1000.
  6. David Gretzmier

    David Gretzmier LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,645

    oh yeah, back story on poles and cutting concrete.


    I originally planned on using rough cut 6x6x22's from my sawmill guy who provided the 2x12's, the 3x6's, and on the long poles, he could not come through.

    he charges .50 to .55 per board foot for oak, and I love it, it is nearly twice as strong as yellow pine, and of course, a 2x12 for me is actually 2 inches plus thick, most are 2 1/18 to 2 1/4 by my tape, along with a full 12 1/4 wide. and it looks beefy. also the kneww braces are oak, but with the new poles I had them cut 3 x 5.5 to match the planed dimensions of the new treated poles. nice thing also, he charges no sales tax. I don't ask questions.

    he would not or could not cut 22 foot 6x6's, although he said he could last month for 33 bucks each. but he did sell me 16 treated pine poles for 56 bucks each. ouch, but it got worse. he had no more and could get no more, so I had to buy 12 more locally from a lumber place, for 89 bucks plus tax. This turned out to be a good deal after I shopped around, Lowe's and Home depot wanted 110 and 125 bucks for the same thing.

    so my original budget of 33 bucks times 28 poles, aprox 900 bucks, grew to 2200 bucks in a period of 24 hours.

    you know how they say you need to figure on spending 15-25% moe than your planning to spend? I was planning on spending 10-11 grand. so I built in a cushion of 2 grand. 1 grand of cushion got ate on the poles before the holes were dug. sheesh.

    also, since I already had the concrete pad, larger in some areas than needed, he still has to cut through some of the concrete with a diamond hot saw and then dig the holes with the post hole digger.

    posts, hopefully will go up this week. when I get back from cruise, hopefully headers and knee braces are up. I will have to through bolt headers through poles and lag bolt knee braces because my builder feels that is overkill. I don't. I hate wind and snow. they will not take down this building. well, not regular stuff anyway.
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2010
  7. David Gretzmier

    David Gretzmier LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,645

    400 for concrete on the posts, 5 yards. building at $4168 total. still no pics. sorry. currently in carribean, construction going on without me. when I left town, concrete squares were cut in pad for the rest of the holes, all holes were dug through concrete, poles were getting staked for concrete.
  8. David Gretzmier

    David Gretzmier LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,645

    just got back from carribean and was gonna post a picture, and I think it is attached. but If it does not work, don't throw rocks at me. I will describe what is happening in the photo. the poles are up, concreted in well, some of the headers and knee braces are in. it looks like he has put the headers on one side of the poles on the sides, and no headers yet on the front or back. he did an excellent job getting very close to my current storage building, just leaving enough room for gutters to go in between the new and old building.

    He used hot dipped galvanized ring shank 3 1/2 inch .131 nails, and was not stingy with them either, not just tacking them on, but probably 12 per end of 2x 12 header. the knee braces appear to have 5 nails at each end .I will still drill through and bolt all the headers through the poles w/ 4 5/8 inch x 11 inch long grade 5 bolts for each pole, and drill and bolt 2 at the top of the knee braces through the headers, and then use 3/8" x 4 inch long lag bolts at the bottoms of the knee braces to the poles. that should absolutely stop any thought of racking.

    again, going to disneyworld with my family tomorrow for 12 days, I hope he can finish the headers and braces by the time I get back, so I can get the header bolting done and start modifying/welding the steel trusses for the roof.

    I will try to pay the builder for the work he has done to theis point and update cost if that happens.

    small barn.jpg
  9. David Gretzmier

    David Gretzmier LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,645

    cool ! the photo worked ! you can also see the height difference in the two buildings. the height of my current shop is about 9 1/2 feet at the edge of the sheet metal on the side. I did not put a tape to the top of the header, but it looks about double the height of my current shop just by looking at the photo.
  10. David Gretzmier

    David Gretzmier LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,645

    went back by today and took a measurement, looks like it is 18 foot 6 inches tall from the header to ground. also paid the builder for putting up posts, gave a draw on labor for headers, knee braces, materials -paid for the longer headers for the front and back. $2169+ $65 in my costs for washers for the 5/8 bolts. get this- I use 4 bolts per post for headers, 2 bolts per posts for the top of the knee's, so that is 6 x 26 or 150 bolts, and that makes 300 washers. everything about this building adds up quick. so, total $6402.

    budget for items still to buy-

    23 used steel trusses at 50 bucks each, I will modify for a longer overhang and drill out for lag bolts to bolt to header, 1150 bucks

    metal roof, ridge, and edge trim 2500

    remaining labor draws to put up trusses, purlins ( goes on top of trusses to secure roof screws) and metal roof, ridge, and edge trim, 2200

    misc. 250

    remaining budget- 6050.

    current projected cost of gigantic carport structure ( no enclosed sides) - 12,500

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