my soil test

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by lazyike, Jul 12, 2007.

  1. lazyike

    lazyike LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 302

    What do you guys think? would it be safe to put as close to 33-0-0 70% slow release down now we are in the middle of a drought but the lawn is heavily irrigated or should I wait til closer to fall?

  2. NattyLawn

    NattyLawn LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,643

    You should have got the micros tested as well. I would look at lowering the pH from 7.5 to 6.3-6.7 for cool season turf. Sulfur at 10-15lbs per k should reduce that about a point. Then apply your 33-0-7 early fall.

    How does the lawn look?
  3. lazyike

    lazyike LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 302

    I don't have any history on the yard. The guy that owns it called me out and it looked bad, he said he just bought the house a month ago. I asked him if he was watering he said he was every other day for about an hr in each zone. he get the water from the lake. The house was built 2 years ago and sod was use, the sod is not rooted down very good and looks thin. and looks as though it was not watered.
    I suggested we do a soil sample, and told him to mow it way higher he was at about an inch, I told him no lower than 3" and to make sure is irrigation system was working right.
    A week later he gave me the go ahead to do what I need. when i came to do his soil sample his yard looked allot better, I also probed deep to see if there was clay or sand just under the sod but it was good black dirt.
    I know it would have been faster to just put a pic on but I do not have one of this yard.
  4. muddstopper

    muddstopper LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,341

    I would chunk that soil test and find a reputable soil testing facility. That test doesnt tell you any information except you have low P, some K and extremly higher than normally seen organic matter. Where are the saturation levels of C, Mg, K, Na. What is the CEC of this soil. How are you supposed to tell why your ph level is above 7, or what is needed to correct it. This type of soil test is useless.
  5. NattyLawn

    NattyLawn LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,643

    Hey mudd....

    Why is that the worst soil sample results I have seen all come from universities and ag extensions and the private labs actually do the job?

    Shouldn't it be the other way around?
  6. treemonkey

    treemonkey LawnSite Member
    Messages: 178


    I agree that the soil test is weak (ie, no recommendation to lower the ph, no CEC and cation balance info).

    But, why do you differ in the P and K levels that are indicated as medium to high based on the analytical tests used at this lab?

    What info would tell you WHY the ph is high? High OM in a medium (loam) soil should have good buffering capacity.

    Maybe that sod was "peat" grown which might explain the high organic level, depending how deep he sampled. But, peat "usually" has an acid ph, which is contradictory.

    He mentions "heavy irrigation" with lake water. Maybe a nutrient analysis of that water is also in order to see if it might be creating ph or other problems.
  7. treemonkey

    treemonkey LawnSite Member
    Messages: 178


    Where did they come up with that 33 - 0 - 0 recommendation? As long as the total N per 1000 is observed, why not 24-0-0 or anything else?

    He might look for a slow release fert. that has a higher acidifying capacity, if it exists, to maybe alleviate the sulfur app.

    One thing I learned is to make changes conservatively until you get a feel for that particular soil.

    Finally, regarding his original question. If one follows the old school N application schedules, a mid summer application should be o.k., especially on bluegrass AND it is irrigated. Since clippings are not bagged, wouldn't a lower application of .5 to .75 lb. N per 1000 be safer and more prudent?
  8. lazyike

    lazyike LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 302

    That is my question and all I got was babble on the quality of the test.
    At least I tested. I should get a pic of this lawn I knew it was nitrogen deficient.. the reason I went for the soil sample is because around here we usually have a problem with low ph not high I was looking to see if it was to acidic for the sod to want to take root. My question is that I thought I should not put down 33-0-0 but instead maybe 19-0-0 60% or higher slow release to or to go less than a lb. per 1000 because this customer.

    just moved into this house and is looking for someone that can start getting to get it to look better now not late fall and
    2. he is a corporate bigwig for a company I have been trying to get my foot into for about 3 years now.

    Thank you,
  9. muddstopper

    muddstopper LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,341

    Mike, You said yourself that you dont know anything about the particular lawn you are dealing with. For this reason, your soil test should have been way more through on nutrient content of your soils. The fact you took a soil sample at all shows you want to do the job right. With your high organic matter content this soil has the ability to hold and actually lock up nutrients altho it will release them slowly over time. The addition of nothing but Nitrogen based fertilizers will burn out the organic content in a short time. These type of soil test, and their recommendations, just plain aint very good for the soil, altho the plants might respond very well to this type of recommendation in the short term. With just N apps, look for this soil to soon become hard compacted and loose organic matter content. It wont happen over nite, but it will happen.
  10. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,794

    You are on the right track. Kill any weeds. In my opinion, I think something like a Lesco 34-0-11 with 50 percent slow release as SCU would work great in this situation. At Ph 7.5--no correction needed. "One hour of sprinkling"--hmmm. One hour per zone per day would probably be too much. Free water from the lake, but that much could leach out nutrients. Try to determine how much he is actually applying, as inches water per week. Leave a coffee mug on the lawn and measure after a sprinkler run. Any wet spots? Any wilted or brown spots? Adjust as needed. One and a half inches per week shoud be adequate even in hot weather--cut back when temp falls below 70.

Share This Page