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Need supplier of corn gluten granular

JasonPC

LawnSite Member
Location
Massachusetts
Hey, I'm looking for a good price on granular corn gluten for about 250K square feet and up to 500K square feet. The pricing is outrageous this year. Anybody have any leads on this? I've contact NOFA and several other companies but it's just totally unaffordable for my clients. Any suggestions or leads would be greatly appreciated!

Jay
 

phasthound

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Mt. Laurel, NJ
Hey, I'm looking for a good price on granular corn gluten for about 250K square feet and up to 500K square feet. The pricing is outrageous this year. Anybody have any leads on this? I've contact NOFA and several other companies but it's just totally unaffordable for my clients. Any suggestions or leads would be greatly appreciated!

Jay
Sent you PM
 
OP
J

JasonPC

LawnSite Member
Location
Massachusetts
jbturf...thank you for the reply! Why is it we have to chase some of these suppliers down and they STILL don't get back to you! Don't they want the business?! Sheesh! Thanks for the lead...
 

Barefoot James

LawnSite Senior Member
Location
Louisville, KY
Don't use it. Doesn't work near as good as Glutin 8 by ICT Organics. they both cost big $$$ but one works the other does'nt. Give ICT a call.
 
OP
J

JasonPC

LawnSite Member
Location
Massachusetts
I'm noticing that a lot of organic fert companies out there don't apply corn gluten at all. They have a the philosophy that the crabgrass will eventually get choked out by the deep rooted grass over 2-3 years. How about just treating the weeds with a natural post-em as they emerge and letting the grass grow through? Anybody do this and seen good results? This year I did that on a section of my lawn and I was psyched to see the grass grew right threw the dead weeds after 2 weeks.

Organics is another world away as compared to drugging your lawn on synthetics (no offense meant here to synthetic appliers out there). :nono: I find that some organic guys are top dressing with compost or tea and taking soil tests and others are just applying a 4 or 5 step plan of orgo fert and their lawns are doing just as well. What is the school of thought here and can anybody share their experiences?

Thanks!
Jay
 

ICT Bill

LawnSite Platinum Member
Location
Howard County MD
I'm noticing that a lot of organic fert companies out there don't apply corn gluten at all. They have a the philosophy that the crabgrass will eventually get choked out by the deep rooted grass over 2-3 years. How about just treating the weeds with a natural post-em as they emerge and letting the grass grow through? Anybody do this and seen good results? This year I did that on a section of my lawn and I was psyched to see the grass grew right threw the dead weeds after 2 weeks.

Organics is another world away as compared to drugging your lawn on synthetics (no offense meant here to synthetic appliers out there). :nono: I find that some organic guys are top dressing with compost or tea and taking soil tests and others are just applying a 4 or 5 step plan of orgo fert and their lawns are doing just as well. What is the school of thought here and can anybody share their experiences?

Thanks!
Jay
One way to save some money when applying CGM is apply it to the areas that are typical for weeds
disturbed areas like sidewalks and driveways that are edged
open areas where grass is not growing well or at all

just apply to those areas
when we meet with franchises or larger landscaping companies we tell them to take their herbicide budget and move it over to seed

seed, seed, seed
This especially true with new clients that have old varieties of turf, new varieties often need less water and are much more disease resistant and don't grow as quickly needing less cutting
mow high, sounds simple but there are a lot of good reasons to do it
leave clippings

The fall application is the most important of the year, use lots of seed
core aerate
over seed
spray with compost tea (it is not often you are able to literally get down into the ground)
top dress with a good to great compost
 

Barefoot James

LawnSite Senior Member
Location
Louisville, KY
One way to save some money when applying CGM is apply it to the areas that are typical for weeds
disturbed areas like sidewalks and driveways that are edged
open areas where grass is not growing well or at all

just apply to those areas
when we meet with franchises or larger landscaping companies we tell them to take their herbicide budget and move it over to seed

seed, seed, seed
This especially true with new clients that have old varieties of turf, new varieties often need less water and are much more disease resistant and don't grow as quickly needing less cutting
mow high, sounds simple but there are a lot of good reasons to do it
leave clippings

The fall application is the most important of the year, use lots of seed
core aerate
over seed
spray with compost tea (it is not often you are able to literally get down into the ground)
top dress with a good to great compost
Clairification here - seed 3 to 4 pounds per 1000 sq ft when using KGB or TTF. Too much on overseeding spots or even 10 pounds/1000 on renovations many times cause fungus issues. So a better mentality for seed, seed, seed is to seed bare spots or thin spots all year long or as problems arise. Even in the dead of heat in summer you are better off Grass Stiching some seed into soil than doing nothing cause something (like a weed or crab grass is going to grow there). I ALWAYS have seed in the truck and compost. When I notice areas that are stressed I grass stich - like a garden weasel but much better - some seed in and cover with compost.
So seed, seed, seed means March - Nov even is summer on barespots, thin spots, spots that have been shot with chems to post kill crab cause you better get some seed down and water/rain and you will be better off long run.

Everybody has different programs for organics. Compost only, CT+ Compost, Organic bag programs, hybrid programs, etc, etc, etc. I would suggest you spend 10 hours a day for a week and you will find plenty of info and programs - use the search function. I learn something everyday and try different stuff every year. I use Compost (lots), CT, ICT, NPP, Humates, Mycorrhizae, Tons of seed, protein meals, seaweed (liq), MESA N (with pre when cust requests but most have been weened off), Glutin 8, and Speed Zone (spot only). I have found to post treat crab/weeds etc is easier and much less costly and identifies bad areas and fixed. I also use gly to do total kills and start over on fall lawn renovations.
 
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