Separate names with a comma.
Missed the live Ask the Expert event?
Catch up on the conversation about fertilization strategies for success with the experts at Koch Turf & Ornamental in the Fertilizer Application forum.
Discussion in 'Heavy Equipment & Pavement' started by ARP, Feb 15, 2009.
Looks good. Your pictures make me want to get a mulcher.
That mower works exceptionally well I'd say!
Ahh I see I'm not sure how a mulcher compares to a bushhog style cutter as far as flow and cutting power but we have the bushog style and I could have cut that tree off at the ground or came down on it and it would have cut it as fast as I could lower the arm but I am running 60 gpm flow. But working around stuff like larger trees electric poles and mailboxes I wish I had a mini X to mow with it would be so much nicer
Having a Tim Allen moment?
Just a small Tim Allen moment
I'm not a physics expert, but I have noticed a few differences between a fixed tooth mulcher and a flail or rotary mower. A fixed tooth mulcher (Fecon type head) will take down a tree faster than a rotary mower as a tremendous amount of force is being transferred from the large, toothy, spinning, mass of a mulcher drum to the less dense and strong wood of a tree. Since the blades of a flail or rotary mower can swing, you will see much more energy loss (and cutting power loss) with those mowers as the lighter blades bounce off objects that a mulcher has the weight and strength to go through. Basically, a fixed tooth mulcher on anything will beat any comparably sized rotary mower or flail mower when it comes to taking bigger material down fast. This is part of the reason I want a 160 with a mulcher- I get the power of the T320 and the ability to reach over and around obstacles like the 50D.
I think a flail mower will keep up a fixed tooth machine of the same size. The fixed teeht weigh less, and the drum is the same. So if you have a flail mower moving at the same RPMs, the formula for finding energy is squared MVsqaured/2 assuming the speed is less than that of light.. And the flail head has more mass moving, so it would have more energy to impart.
However, fixed tooth machines have a more agressive tooth, while not imparting the same energy. So, I think they would be about the same.
That's a brave cameraman to stand left of the mower like that. If you caught my last video, you can see debris flying past the camera and hear it hitting the sign I hung it on.
Do you have the additional counterweight for the long stick, and is that the reason that the tail swings beyond the tracks?
I'm really curious to know as to why my deck is so more worn than yours. I guess if you look at the condition of my blades that will give a glimpse. I'm only approaching 150 hrs.
I don't know if you caught my post about adding the thatch blade to my EX30, but the receptionist at US Mower wasn't very supportive. Also I've got a spare set of blades ready to go. I was thinking about taking them to the blacksmith and having them harden them before I switch them. Thoughts?
I've been thinking about what I'd have if I was going big, this is where I was leaning.
2006 JOHN DEERE 225CLC RTS $110,000 (USD)
Stock #: N4393 Serial # : FF225CX500522 Hours : 2530
Listing Dealer: Matt Heisel, ERB EQUIPMENT COMPANY, INC., FENTON , MO
My cameraman is pretty brave but he was standing far enough away so that any debris didn't hit him- plus I stayed away from really large material so that I didn't produce large, flying chips. Either way, I'd like a tripod so I can get steadier videos and I don't have to have anyone stand anywhere close to the "chip zone."
In regards to the counterweight, I do have the additional counterweight. With a long stick, thumb, and mower sticking out 20 feet, that counterweight comes in very handy. I haven't found a situation yet where the 3 extra inches of overhang affect a project.
I didn't catch your post about the thatch blades, but I can only assume that adding them would help your cutting power. I also like the idea of hardening the blades- I might have to try that myself.
Nice 225! I fluctuate daily between wanting a 225 or a 160. I keep leaning towards a 160 so that I can use a triple axle tag behind a triaxle to move the machine on my own. I can then use the same trailer to pull the T320 and 50D at the same time to jobs. Then I see a nice 225 somewhere and my decision process kinda of "resets"
Can you put a long stick on a 160 and use the mulcher? How much does one weigh? WIth a long stick on a 160 you will have near the reach of a 200. I personally think you would be better off with a 160, just for the transportation reasons.
Ya, I would put a long stick and an extra counterweight on a 160 and either a 32" Bradco or Fecon or a 48" Denis Cimaf. The flow is basically the same between a 160/200/225 so I wouldn't lose anything there either. I'm still leaning towards a 160, especially after I saw a nice Kenworth T800 and a triple axle tag go past me on the highway this morning....