[cutintime]

OK THIS IS MY FIRST POST AND I AM BRAND NEW TO THE LAWNCARE BIZ. THREE WEEKS NEW TO BE EXACT. TWO WEEKS AGO I PUT OUT 150 FLIERS. I GOT FIVE CALLS, LANDED THREE CLIENTS FOR LAWN SERVICE ONE FOR TREE TRIMMING AND JUST PUT ANOTHER BID IN.
HERE IS MY QUESTION, ONE OF THE PEOPLE I GAVE A BID TO WAS FOR THE BASIC MOW, EDGE, WEED WACK AND BLOW. WHEN HE WAS SHOWING ME THE PROPERTY HE POINTED OUT SOME AREAS WHERE THE COMPANY HE HAD WAS COURTING TOO FAR INTO THE LAWN. I THOUGHT IT WAS BECAUSE THEY HAD THE DECK SET TOO LOW, SAID I'D DO IT FOR $120 A MONTH. WELL I MOWED HIS LAWN TODAY ON MY 46 INCH RIDER WITH THE DECK ALL THE WAY UP AND STILL CUT SOME GROVES INTO HIS YARD. HIS HOUSE IS BUILT UP ON AN ELEVATED FOUNDATION AND I FOUND THAT THIS CAUSED THE PREVIOUS COMPANIES MOWER, MY MOWER AND PROBABLY ANYONE ELSE'S MOWER TO CUT UNEVEN. I FOUND THAT IF I USED MY PUSH MOWER IT COULD BE DONE BUT THERE IS NO WAY I AM GOING TO USE MY 22 INCH PUSH MOWER ON HIS WHOLE LAWN FOR $30 A CUT. HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THIS PROBLEM? AND IS THERE A SOLUTION OTHER THAN PUSH MOWING?

 

[Runner]

First of all, welcome to Lawnsite. The first thing I wonder when reading this, is, is the whole property like this? What is the elevation change that you speak of just a terrain change, or is it like a small ditch area, or what? If it is like a ditch or small drainage groove, just mow up one side and down the other, carefully watching where your deck edge is at, as to not go into the turf on the other side. The same thing applies to ditches. It is better to leave a little in the center of the ditch (which can be made up with the trimmer, afterwards) than to go too far and gouge. Especially if there is somewhat level area in the center. We have a few commercials that have small drainages like this, and what I do, is when I first come to it (regardless of whatever direction we're cutting on that day), is go down one side, and up the other. Then, when I make the rows, the deck simply floats over top (lift if you dont have a floating deck with plenty of anti-scalp rollers). This ensures that all the grass gets cut, and there isn't 6" tall grass down the low spot. Every other week, I switch directions that I went down this groove, as to not make definite stripes down it, so it isn't noticeable. Now, if it's just a simple terrain change we're talking here, then just travel down the line of the change on each side, then just continue to mow afterward. Again, if you miss a little bit, simply make it up with the trimmer.
Oh, just a small note, for future posts, use regular fonts, rather than all caps, as it is much easier to read. Thanks. I hope this info helps, as little as it is.

 

[John Gamba]

If The Area Is not To Big Do It With The 22 And The rest With The Rider.
Or Talk To him About More Money To Do It with The 22.
John

 

[cutintime]

Hey thanks for the replies. I have not heard any complaints from the owner but I am my own worst critic. I think I will do the hill with the push mower and the rest with the rider. thanks again. oh, got another customer today. Hope it stays steady.

 

[lawnman_scott]

No real solution on the lawn problem. One thing though, if its paying $120 per month, i assume you are doing them every week in summer, and every other in winter. Try to look at it as $40 a cut, and make sure the customer does this as well, and does not want 1/2 price in winter. Good luck.