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New Holland Skid Steer LS-150

Discussion in 'Heavy Equipment & Pavement' started by ccrider966, Feb 23, 2005.

  1. ccrider966

    ccrider966 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 2

    I bought an LS-150 NH and like it so far. I would like to know if anyone here is familiar with these. I need a service manual and a jack kit to tilt the cab for maintenance. I have a slight coolant leak I have not found the source yet. I removed the belly pan and the side panels and will continue the search. Anybody have this problem?
    It seems you need to tilt the cab to get to anything on the engine, has anyone here done that. Could it be done without the jack kit from NH?
    The only thing I don't like is that you cannot tow the vehicle without the engine running the hydrostat transmission. What will I ever do if it breaks down out in the field? NH should have made provision for that!
  2. mkrol

    mkrol LawnSite Member
    Messages: 4

    Hi ccrider966,
    I'm relatively new to this board and this is my first post. I too own a New Holland LS-150. I bought mine used in September 2004 with 725 hours. It has the optional hand controls for hydraulics, which I prefer to the foot controls.

    I was actually looking for a Cat or Bobcat when this deal came along and I couldn't pass it up. Plus, there's a New Holland dealer about 10 minutes from my home which was a big deciding factor.

    So far, I have done some work on it myself, but nothing major yet. For example, the parking brake was inoperative and needed adjustment (which is kind of a pain). I have not yet tried to tilt the cab and I hope I never have to....

    I bought a complete set of Service Manuals on E-bay (I hope it's OK to mention E-bay here...). Got them for around 40 bucks which I thought was a steal. I also have a parts manual which came with the unit when I bought it.

    I too have a very slight coolant leak. There is a coolant drain valve screwed into the left side of the engine block (near the oil filter). The threads where it screws into the block are seeping. What's curious about this, is when the engine warms up (and coolant system is pressurized), it does not leak. It's only when it gets cold and sits for a while when it seeps. It's not a big deal and when it gets warmer out I hope to take care of it. Unfortunately the drain valve is kind of buried and may be a challenge to remove without first removing something else. You may want to check this on yours.

    I'll keep my fingers crossed that I never break down in the field.

    Hope this helps.
  3. ccrider966

    ccrider966 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 2

    Thanks for the info. I wish we were closer so I could look at your service manuals when I need them. I will look on ebay but doubt if they will ever appear there again. You got a real bargain, wish I was so lucky, they cost over$200.
    I also suspected the drain **** on the left side was leaking and I removed the belly pan and the side panels to get a closer look. The belly pan was full of dirt which absorbed the leak I think. That is when I decided you needed to tilt the cab to replace or tighten the drain ****. You cannot get your hand in there much less a tool. I will have to start it up and run it for awhile to see if it is the problem though. My leak is very slight and unlike yours, I think it leaks under pressure only. I only have 250 hours on mine and it is a 2002 model that was never used commercially.
    Also did you notice how tight the battery is jammed in. It don't look like you can even remove it without it hitting the muffler brace. I would like to have your email address in case I need to ask a question in the future. Mine is ccrider966@yahoo.com and also uniontractor@earthlink.net. I am 30 miles west of StLouis.
  4. mkrol

    mkrol LawnSite Member
    Messages: 4

    I don't think you'll need to tilt the cab to get to the drain. With the seat tilted up and side cover removed I was able to get a wrench on mine thinking it may have been loose - it was a tight fit, but I was able to get a wrench on it and confirm it was tight. In order to make the drain valve removal easier, nearby components may need to be removed for clearance - like oil filter or dipstick tube.

    I'm no engineer, but it appears the valve is made of plastic (or maybe aluminum?) which is screwed directly into the side of the block. I can't help but think the dis-similar materials (with different heat expansion rates) are at least contributing to the problem.

    One thing that's basic, but has to be said, before going through the hassle of removing the drain valve, first make sure the valve is actually closed tight. :rolleyes:

    Mine is a 2000 model but I think your 2002 should be almost the same.

    I did had the battery out of mine for general cleaning (mine too was dirty and the belly pan full of dirt) and did have to remove the muffler brace. It's not a big deal though, one bolt on each end of the brace (once you remove the side panel).

    Anyway, so as we don't bore everyone else with our discussion, feel free to e-mail me. My e-mail address is mkrol@cac.net. I also have a few other things I'd like to ask you.


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