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New Install - DIYer

Discussion in 'Homeowner Assistance Forum' started by chi_town60608, Apr 5, 2014.

  1. Kiril

    Kiril LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 18,334

    What TXI said ... run a pvc main lateral and tee off that to drip header locations. Choice of valve matters not, as long as it can handle the (low) flow. If you have more than a couple of drip zones, it is cheaper and cleaner to install a filter for the entire valve group and/or system. Since you are coming off a well, you might consider (and I would recommend) running a single filter for the entire system.

    Use something like Netafim Techline CV, which utilizes a pressure compensating dripper in the line. Look on their site for design specs. I highly recommend a grid when drip irrigating anything other than discrete plantings.
  2. chi_town60608

    chi_town60608 LawnSite Member
    from OKC, OK
    Messages: 28

    Okay guys, I've sat down with my wife and we walked the back yard to decide what future landscaping she wants done. With that in mind, I've come up with a backyard design that is nearly impossible for me to get the sprinkler head placement in order. I have no problem getting it all wet, but I'm sure the DU is not close. I don't have any fancy software to find out, but I think I wanna leave this aspect to the experts. I REALLY want to install the system myself. But I want the layout to be done right. So, what would you guys suggest? I could always go for the RB design service, but it would include a bunch of stuff I can figure out myself and I also would like to use MP Rotators which obviously wouldn't be included in their design. If an HO came to you and asked you to do their sprinkler head layout, would any of you consider it? On that note, any volunteers to throw an estimate my way on what you'd charge to just do my sprinkler layout for me? I'm up for suggestions.

    Below is the new layout. It's only the back yard. I will also need a layout design for my front yard. I've been working on this dang back yard and haven't even got the measurements to graph out the front yet.


    The yellow boxes are structures, gray areas are non-watered, and brown is drip.

    Thanks all!

  3. whiffyspark

    whiffyspark LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 6,292

    That looks like fun
    Posted via Mobile Device
  4. Kiril

    Kiril LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 18,334

    Lot of zones .... easily 12+ .... start with adding contour lines, north arrow, wind patterns/direction, environmental hydrozones, soil type for each hydrozone (including confining layers if present), estimated hydrozone exposure throughout the day, appropriate plant choices for the hydrozones.
  5. chi_town60608

    chi_town60608 LawnSite Member
    from OKC, OK
    Messages: 28

    Alright, here you go:

    Average monthly wind speeds:

    Jan - 12.5
    Feb - 13.1
    March - 14.3
    April - 14.2
    May - 12.5
    June - 11.8
    July - 10.8
    August - 10.4
    Sept - 10.8
    October - 11.7
    November - 12.3

    The wind is almost always coming out of the south/southwest to the north/northeast.

    All grass areas will receive full sunshine from about 9:30 AM until 6:00 PM.

    Our soil is sandy throughout. I can do the detergent and water in a jar thing if you'd like, but I assure you, it is sandy.

    I've roughly drawn the contour lines in on the property. It pretty much boils down to everything drains to the northwest corner. The northwest corner is obviously the lowest point, the south east corner is the highest.


    If you have any other questions or need me to clarify anything, feel free.


  6. chi_town60608

    chi_town60608 LawnSite Member
    from OKC, OK
    Messages: 28

    Here is the front yard. It is much more straight forward than the back yard. The yellow circles are large Crape Myrtles. They are thick and will stop any water from going through them. The light blue circle is a very large tree that will knock down any water stream over approx. 6 foot and higher. The trunk is about 2-2 1/2 feet in diameter. The edges of the circle marks the landscaping brick and will be drip inside it. The little rectangle at the South (bottom) end is our mailbox. It is brick and about 5 ft x 3 ft and 5 ft tall. Gray area is concrete and house (brick) and the brown is drip areas. The flower beds around the house are about 4 feet wide. Each square on the graph is approx. 2 ft.

    The red horizontal line marks where the elevation begins to slope downward to the bottom of the property. It is probably about a 3 foot drop from that point to the entrance of the driveway.

    Lastly, I'm not sure I've mentioned this, but there will be a mainline loop around the property. I can mark where the BFP, Master Valve and tee of the loop are planned if needed.


    Thanks again!

  7. Kiril

    Kiril LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 18,334

    If your low elevation is north-west, your contour lines are backwards. Check the USGS for a DEM for your location.


    Wind blowing across the slope .... any significant wind breaks (trees) that will impact wind characteristics in the lawn area? If not, you will want to adjust spacing to accommodate wind drift. You can run a test with your sprinkler choice to see how significantly the pattern will distort at your average wind speed, then adjust your pattern layout to accommodate. Don't over compensate! You will also want to consider how wind drift from lawn sprinklers will impact bordering beds and accommodate with both drip design and plant choices.

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