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New lawn and an existing lawn issues

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by ron mexico75, Oct 14, 2013.

  1. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,082

    Best not to wait until Spring then, maybe...
    Once this rain is over I'll be spot spraying a number of perennial weeds...
  2. ron mexico75

    ron mexico75 LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,015

    So even in to November how about if the first frost already comes I guess you can still spray at that point? I've never run into this that's why I am asking.
    Posted via Mobile Device
  3. ReddensLawnCare

    ReddensLawnCare LawnSite Bronze Member
    Messages: 1,651

    Yes just do the 3 way with ester and you will be fine. I would do a blanket app
    Posted via Mobile Device
  4. ron mexico75

    ron mexico75 LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,015

    Ok, well I already have some speedzone so I'll just use that. Just not sure what to use or if I should treat the sprigs of some type of weedy grass popping up.
  5. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,720

    Yes, go with the broadleaf weed control. Three-way might be a bit more gentle on the new grass. In my tests it was OK on perennial rye after it attained a height of 3 inches.
    Exactly what kind of seed was used? Something suited to you conditions and climate, perhaps. Not too much rye, I hope? Are you in tall fescue country? More suited to Bermuda? Near or after first frost is still OK. There is a high chance of many weed seeds in the soil--normal for weeds to happen after soil tillage and water is applied.
    Quicksilver can be applied 7 days after emergence for most grasses; tall fescue may have slight yellowing.

    What kind of weedy grass? Annual or perennial? What are your temperatures? Soil temps?

    Henbit is a winter annual. If you can't spray it now, it will die in spring after a couple mowings. Oxalis can be either annual or perennial.

    Heavy seed will not solve a shade problem. If it was thin due to shade--it will happen again--unless the shade problem is addressed. Reduce the shade...or...plant a shade tolerant ground cover.
  6. ron mexico75

    ron mexico75 LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,015

    Ok, you think the speedzone would injure the new grass? The label says after the 2nd mowing on newly seeded areas. Just didn't want to spend more money for 3 way because I don't have any but I do have speedzone.

    The seed used for the new lawn install was a blue tag tall fescue mix specific for my area. The 3 varieties are not even named because its new out of VA Tech. Just has a generic numbering like AST 7000. It's very nice looking.

    Glad you said that because I thought I did something wrong. Sprayed entire area before tilling and used the best seed I could find. Just par for the course I guess (weed seed already in soil).

    I'm not sure what it is. Just saw some little sprigs coming up. Not bermuda though, they were short and fat. maybe I can get some pics when I go back there. Temps have been in the mid 70's during the day and upper 50's to low 60's at night. Not sure of soil temos. It hasn't been cool here yet by any means though.

    As far as lawn #2 from my original post......
    It's not a shade "problem" it's just that the lawn area doen't get enough sun to get the tall fescue mix I put down last year to thrive. So I got a tall fescue mix made for shady areas. 44.68% Silverlawn Creeping red fescue, 24.70% Frazer chewings fescue, 19.70% AST 5112 Tall Fescue, 09.83% Kenblue Kentucky Bluegrass.
  7. ron mexico75

    ron mexico75 LawnSite Silver Member
    Messages: 2,015

    Well nevermind. Hoeowner said they don't have the budget for a follow up app to the entire property. Said he will buy something at a home improvement store and try himself.

    So, anyone else have opinion as to what I SHOULD have done? I like to learn even though I'm not doing it. Just like to get opinions on the "best way", that's all.
  8. Mscotrid

    Mscotrid LawnSite Bronze Member
    from USA
    Messages: 1,456

    If you used Fescue, spray drive xlr8, it will not effect seed.
  9. RigglePLC

    RigglePLC LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 13,720

    I don't think creeping red or chewings fescue is suited for temps over 90 degrees. Kenblue is below average in quality.

    The new weed could be crab, but weather has been a bit too cool for crabgrass...which needs air temps over 80.
    Possibly the weed you see is a winter annual. For instance like chickweed, veronica, henbit...or your local favorite.

    The Weed b Gone label allows treatment only after the third mowing.

    Talk to the homeowner again and explain that you have a better and safer weed control product (Speedzone--four ingredients), and your power equipment would give more effective results. Blanket treatment. If he spot sprays --there is a risk of damaging the new grass--if he goes over the correct rate--or not killing the weeds if he goes less than the correct rate. Explain that you would include a fertilizer to help the new grass get thicker faster, and formulated to prepare it for the winter. Mention that he should throw his shoes away after he does the weed treatment--because unless he wears rubber boots--the chemical in his shoes will be absorbed through the skin of his feet for the next few months.

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