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new well

ADMIREDLAWNS

LawnSite Member
my new home had an old 1/2 hp Sta-rite pump to old galvanized steel line, which ran to 3 spickets. After my dad and I experimented with it for a week, we concluded the lines a had rusted open because we barely got any pressure after putting on a new pump. I met some guys that do irrigation while out doing my lawns, I had them come by and put in 2 wells with double points. Now the Sta-rite shoots the water halfway across the yard.

I will be returning the new pump, and start digging trenches to lay the pipes. How deep must I go with the pipes, i've been told anywhere from 6-18"?

I was going to run 1 inch pvc from the pump to the valves and from the valves to about 10 teet before the sprinkler and from there I would drop to 1/2 the rest of the way to give enough pressure. Hope this makes sense.
 

Wet_Boots

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
metro NYC
Forget half inch, and stick with 3/4 as a minimum, unless you're running small popup sprays. With the use of swing pipe for connecting heads, you don't have to worry over burial depth. Half a foot would be fine.
 

No Rush

LawnSite Member
Location
South Texas

PurpHaze

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Visalia, CA
Forget half inch, and stick with 3/4 as a minimum, unless you're running small popup sprays.
He could even forget it for 1/2" FPT sprinklers as well using a reducer 90 or other reducing fitting of his choice so the 1/2" is only at his swing pipe or swing joint.

Larger pipe = less friction loss = better pressure stablization.
 

PurpHaze

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Visalia, CA
In order to determine the pipe size we need to know the flow rate (GPM) of the water in the pipe.
It would also be nice to know what type of PVC pipe he's planning on using because not all pipe is created equal. :)

Different types have different flow characteristics.
 

PurpHaze

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
Visalia, CA
You don't size down pipe to "Keep up the pressure". You do it because you aren't moving as much water, and you don't need the flow capacity.
I was taught that the only reason to size pipe was to save money. Sure, one could run all 1" in a residential system and get away without much more money spent overall on the system if the system is staying static without any future changes. But if you don't need it, why install it?

Now, take commercial systems and you'd better be doing your calculations or you'll be wasting a lot of money.
 

Mike Leary

LawnSite Fanatic
I was taught that the only reason to size pipe was to save money. Sure, one could run all 1" in a residential system and get away without much more money spent overall on the system if the system is staying static without any future changes. But if you don't need it, why install it?.
In high end res., you've got to develop a sixth sense on the future of the system....spare wire...mainline stub outs & proper sized main & laterals.
I was taught to downsize as the lateral had fewer heads..made sense..quit using 1/2" years ago because of the multitude of fittings to be carried & labor
associated with bushing down. Parts are cheaper, in most cases, than labor.
I did one system where the client said "that's as far as we're going". A year
later they called to expand..I was screwed..the last time I listened to a client
or LA without explaining how cheap is was to plan for expansion now.
 
OP
ADMIREDLAWNS

ADMIREDLAWNS

LawnSite Member
I dont know much about irrigation at all so giving you more info is going to bew hard seeing as I have no idea what i'm doing. I will be reading the irrigation section and google searches, as soon as I can figure out what i'm going to do i'll make it know.

Down sizing the pipes is what I was told to do by my dad and the irrigation guys, so dont hold it against me.
 
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