Official centipede thread

Discussion in 'Pesticide & Herbicide Application' started by grassmasterswilson, May 1, 2017.

  1. grassmasterswilson

    grassmasterswilson LawnSite Fanatic
    from nc
    Messages: 5,165

    since centipede is by far my hardest turf to get good results on I figured we could use a good specific thread.

    So based on what I'm hearing ....

    PH - 5.5
    Spring - 1 lb gallery(feb/march)
    Fall - ??? Low rate prodiamine or specticle? My centipede will go dormant and I need poa protections(sept-November)

    Patch disease is also an issue in some spots. Either customer has battled it year after year or calls me when lawn is almost all brown. I normally go 1 spring/2 fall apps on lawns with a history. What about 1 spring and 1 fall standard fungicide??

    Fertilizer wise I'm all granular. I usually try for 1.25-1.5 lb N of AS and 2-2.5lb SOP over 3-4 apps.
    ETM likes this.
  2. WhiteStoneGuy

    WhiteStoneGuy LawnSite Member
    Messages: 154

    I've been researching centipede a LOT lately. Some things I've learned:
    1. Chlorine fertilizers can be damaging to centipede in certain soil types that hold on to things longer.
    2. Centipede is sensitive to root pruning. Do not use pre-emergents on any centipede that does not have a well established root system. If pre-emergents must be used to control poa annua or crabgrass, lowest-rate split app is preferred. If using a strong root-pruning pre-emergent like prodiamine, use it when centipede is dormant.
    3. Simazine is an effective pre-emergent for centipede without the harsh root pruning. The trick to making simazine most effective is to water in with 1/2" water within a day of application. The longer simazine lays on the surface without being watered in, the less effective it becomes once it is watered in. After 10 days without being watered in, simazine is rendered mostly useless.
    4. Gallery is an expensive broadleaf pre-emergent, but is very successful on centipede (and many other turfs) for broadleaf control for 3+ months after application. It's active ingredient (isoxaben) has an extremely low-volatility and can be sprayed on most ornamentals and bulbs with zero damage.
    5. Effective selective Post-emergent herbicides for centipede in my order of preference include:
    • Celsius (has some residual qualities)
    • MSM .25-.5oz/acre (has some residual qualities)
    • Avenue South (includes low concentration of 2,4-d amine)
    • Speedzone Southern (includes low concentration of 2,4-d ester)

    Even if you do everything right with treatments, a winter with several days of below freezing temps in a row will kill large sections of centipede.
    MSlawnman likes this.
  3. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,860

    I never had problems with Simazine not working or not lasting. If I was using it as a pre, it got watered in immediately. The concept of spraying something that needed to be watered in and driving off before that happened is foreign to me. Gallery can supposedly stay on the surface for so many days before watering in. I never tested that. Gallery is another product to be watered in immediately. I do not routinely deal with turf that products cannot be watered in by myself after application.
  4. WhiteStoneGuy

    WhiteStoneGuy LawnSite Member
    Messages: 154

    Greendoctor, can I ask at what rate you apply Simazine? Single app or split app?
  5. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,860

    Simazine is no longer used in my State. But when I did, it was a 2 lb followed by 1 lb split.
  6. OP

    grassmasterswilson LawnSite Fanatic
    from nc
    Messages: 5,165

    What are your thoughts on using barricade or similar product in the fall. Around here the centipede goes "semi dormant" meaning mostly brown but with some green at the crown. The turf will not grow at all from nov 1 - maybe mid march.

    So a 5 month rate of a root pruners should not hurt?

    I think a lot of my problem comes in spring when I'm trying to clean up weeds. Post products and a little green sets me back but I can never start early enough to beat warmer weather.
  7. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,860

    In the dormant season, root pruners hurt less. I use the growing season as the time to thicken and repair a lawn. It has been found in my state that root pruners are damaging during the growing season(April-November) on many grasses. As I wrote before, I will use pre on lawns that get weedy between November and April. I even used Specticle on a Zoysia lawn in October. That lawn had no crabgrass or broadleaves for many months. No snow in Hawaii, but that is the time of the year most likely to be cloudy, raining, and too cool for grass to grow properly.
  8. larryinalabama

    larryinalabama LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 20,404

    Replace with Zoysia.
    ETM likes this.
  9. WhiteStoneGuy

    WhiteStoneGuy LawnSite Member
    Messages: 154

    I think you'd be okay with Barricade (Prodiamine) as a November or Feb. app for centipede with a well established root system. You haven't mentioned Dimension (dithiopyr) as an option yet. Centipede is on the label and it's not as harsh of a root pruner as Barricade (prodiamine).

    Perhaps this split-app mixup could work:

    September: Simazine 2 quarts/acre
    November: Simazine 1 quart/acre or Prodiamine (Barricade) .75lbs/acre
    February: Barricade .75lbs/acre or Dimension WP .625 lbs/acre
    March: Gallery + Dimension or Gallery + Simazine(not if Simazine used in both fall apps)

    I know that seems complex, but it seems like an effective schedule for controlling poa annua and crabgrass in centipede with the least invasive root pruning. Thoughts?
  10. greendoctor

    greendoctor LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,860

    Actually, Dimension is more of a root pruner. Moderate rates of Barricade are the least. This is related to how far down an application leaches into the soil. This is based on a slide show the guys from BASF presented. If I remember rightly, Pendulum and Surflan go the deepest and offer the strongest weed control. They are also the most severe root pruners. Dimension is in the middle. Barricade is the least. Such that Barricade can be used when establishing Bermuda fairways and roughs from sprigs. No other pre is suggested for that usage.

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