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Organic Fertilizing Program (DRAFT)

godjwood

Inactive
Location
RI
Hi,

So I am trying to put together an organic fertilizing program. My local extension didn't help me and the store I buy fertilizer from wasn't all that helpful either. So I figured I would see what you guys have for input.

The information I gathered was based off the local seed store I buy fertilizer from (this wasn't a home depot guy or anything like that).

Basically, I was told there is the Organica four step program, and he also mentioned Milorganite. He had recommended that I put down Organica Lawn Booster once a month, despite their recommended 2x/year. He suggested I put down milorganite once in the early spring. He also told me I should put down Organica Kelp Booster 2x/year despite their recommendation of 1x/year.

I was attempting to put together 2 programs, one organic with non organic weed and insect control. The other fully organic (I was told fully organic products have poor insect and weed control).

Here is a rough rough draft of what I was thinking. Do you have any input or suggestions? Thank you.

Organic Program 1:
Organic fertilizer combined with more effective methods of weed and grub control.
March/April- Milorganite/Kelp Booster
May- Lawn Booster
June- Lawn Booster/Merit preventative grub control application
July- Kelp Booster/Lawn Booster
August- Microbial Soil Conditioner
September- Lawn Booster
Solucal Limestone- Fall
Weeds sprayed with triplet as needed each visit.

Full Organic Program
Promoting a thick, green yard using 100% organic methods.
March/April- Milorganite/Kelp Booster
May- Lawn Booster
June- Lawn Booster
July- Lawn Booster
August- Microbial Soil Conditioner
September- Kelp Booster/Overseed/DOUBLE core aeration
Brown Pelleted Limestone- Fall

Optional- Milky Spore for grub control
 

starry night

LawnSite Platinum Member
Take a little more time studying the various products for inputs and suppliers for these. While Organica may have OK products, they are geared toward the consumer side with their pricing. I priced them wholesale and the price per 1000 sq ft of application would be way high. Read more on this forum for various kinds of inputs or ask us some more questions. You will find that our goal is to minimize inputs. Your program is making organics more complicated than it needs to be.
 

Kiril

LawnSite Fanatic
Location
District 9 CA
My advice ..... don't take advice from suppliers, vendors, and dealers who's sole purpose is to move product. I don't know what type of soil you are dealing with (I hope you do), but IMO there seems to be A LOT of unnecessary crap.

You need to understand what the soil and turf needs are on each site before you can construct a viable approach. You may be able to get away with a generic program for similar sites, but that is something you need to determine, not assume.

My 2 cents.
 

Landscape Poet

LawnSite Gold Member
Location
Oviedo/Orlando
Take a little more time studying the various products for inputs and suppliers for these. While Organica may have OK products, they are geared toward the consumer side with their pricing. I priced them wholesale and the price per 1000 sq ft of application would be way high. Read more on this forum for various kinds of inputs or ask us some more questions. You will find that our goal is to minimize inputs. Your program is making organics more complicated than it needs to be.
This is what I was thinking when I read this list. I was like wow that is way more complicated that I thought a organic program needed to be.
 

ICT Bill

LawnSite Platinum Member
Location
Howard County MD
I know it may sound really simple, but what about just adding a good compost to start?
If you can find some good to great compost I think you will be amazed this time next year how well the sites do. In your sandy to light clay soils it will improve many things, especially soil structure which leads to healthier soil, better drought tolerance, better root mass
If you are handy and can build an extractor for the compost you could then spray it on multiple times through the year
an extractor is basically an auger to pull the compost up a tube where there spray tips at high PSI, the water spray knocks the small stuff into a container
make 100 gallons, mix it 2 to 1 with water and go spray 90,000 to 100,000 sq ft

Barry uses a ball valve at the end of his hose and just turns it a bit and gets a nice pattern, open it more if you want to drench something
you can't do it wrong, you can just do it better
 
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Landscape Poet

LawnSite Gold Member
Location
Oviedo/Orlando
If you can find some good to great compost I think you will be amazed this time next year how well the sites do. In your sandy to light clay soils it will improve many things, especially soil structure which leads to healthier soil, better drought tolerance, better root mass
Bill,

Found a good source - check out there video. I did not even know that they were down here. I am trying to work with the Regional salesmen now and he seems eager to help, as they only sell truckloads at a time, mainly to Golf Courses and Athletic fields, and with no larger than I am I can not take a semi at a time. Wish me luck or if you know of any other people in the Orlando area that give me a good quality product let me know.

The compost I put down in my own lawn recently, well I got the lab test for it finally, :hammerhead::hammerhead::hammerhead: how they are allowed to call something like that compost I do not know!
 

Landscape Poet

LawnSite Gold Member
Location
Oviedo/Orlando
ahhh - just found out that Orange County - next county over has been doing their own composting since 1992 with lawn scrapes. Best part is that is free and described as resembling peat. Intersting right? How large can the profit be on free product? LOL
 
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