Overseeding after Aeration

Discussion in 'Turf Renovation' started by captn, Apr 28, 2008.

  1. captn

    captn LawnSite Member
    Messages: 115

    I have been working OT to get this lawn brought back from the dead.

    It's an 1.25 acre, and looks mostly tall Fescue with 30% KBG. I think this because I keep it long, and portions of the grass lay over unless I keep it less than 3".

    In northern Il, what do I want to overseed with to ensure a nice rich green turf to fill in the decades of neglect now that I've gotten the yard back under control? I plan to aerate and seed towards fall.

    Any best best practices?

    It is also across the street from a farm, and I get alot of Quack grass. Any suggestions for reducing that?

  2. jaybird24

    jaybird24 LawnSite Senior Member
    from midwest
    Messages: 623

    Try one of lesco's KBG blends, we really like the athletic mix, very dark green. As far as the quack grass that stuff is tough, there may be a product out there, but not sure, if its bad we usually gly the area a couple times and then start new. If there is any left it usually comes back. We do a lot of prairie restoration and if there is quack and we don't gly, just cultivate it three times, the stuff will be back in no time.
  3. captn

    captn LawnSite Member
    Messages: 115

    Will Lesco sell to Homeowners?

    Also, the Athletic Mix, what percent KBG is it? I am really interested in this.:weightlifter:
  4. Marcos

    Marcos LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,720

    Aeration, performed by ITSELF.... (no matter how many 'passes' across the lawn with the machine)... cannot be considered to be an adequate base for proper seed germination and growth.

    What consequently happens is that you'll get germination of grass seed...yes...but it primarily happens only in the holes that are created in the lawn...which usually are either too far apart, and / or too DEEP for the newly germinated seed's own good.

    You'd be better off...in my opinion...using some type of slice seeder to do this operation. Slice seeders will cut "vertically" down into the soil about 1/16" to 1/8" or so.
    Going over the lawn with this type of machine, at right angles, will likely prevent the "corn row" look later.

    Now...many times I WILL use an aerator just BEFORE slice seeding...in an effort to "bring up" more native soil to the surface...that I'll allow to "dry down" a little, before slicing right over the cores, and into the ground with the slice seeder.
    What this does is greatly improve the 'seed-to-soil contact %', which, along with PROPER WATERING later, are the 2 most important factors in having a successful seed project.

    Don't forget to mow the lawn pretty 'close' before you get started !
    It's alot easier on the equipment...it helps YOU see what YOU'RE doing better...and it'll help keep the turf from "competing with itself" to some degree...by (hopefully) limiting the existing turf's potential 'smothering' influence on the seed's germination and establishment.


    If you've got quackgrass issues...just keep 'spotting' those areas with glosposate (Roundup)...and as soon as you can...seed it heavily with a fescue / bluegrass mix.
    The only sure-fire way I've found to fight quackgrass, through the years, is to literally 'compete it' into submission. :laugh:


    You say you keep your grass "long.......", but you also say you have a fescue/ blue mix.
    What you're doing is a good practice DURING the growing season.

    BUT...for the LAST mowing of the fall...going into the winter, make sure you lower the (sharpened) blades down to 2.25 to about 2.5" for a "mixed" cool season lawn like that.
    Doing this help allow for better air-flow through the turf's crown for the winter period...and allow for the bluegrass component of your lawn to have a chance to "catch a breath" and thus, have an opportunity to spread its rhizomes... while the fescue component is in a 'not-so-dominant' position, for the very-limited time that this occurs (in the early spring and late fall).
  5. Marcos

    Marcos LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,720

    Yes they will...

    But.... cha-CHING !!

    Homeowners pay quite a bit more there, than those in the green industry...and rightfully so.
  6. captn

    captn LawnSite Member
    Messages: 115

    How much $$$ are we talking to overseed 30k square feet of lawn?

  7. Marcos

    Marcos LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,720

    Pricing always varies from region to region..even for the "pros", this is true.
    You can call a Lesco around your area and find out.
    Just go to lesco.com and enter in your zip code...it'll pull up the nearest store automatically.

    I do know that the Lesco mix that is mostly (3 or 4 types) turf-type tall fescue...with 10 to 20% ky bluegrass...is called their "Tuf Turf" mix.

    Or...if you have a tremendous amount of barren soil to work with there...you probably would want to go with "Team Mates Plus" mix; which is (ususally) 70-80% t.t.t. fescues, ky. bluegrass and a little perennial rye (only 10% or so...to act as a 'nurse grass' while the other seed is filling in).

    "Overseeding" 30,000 sq ft with Tuf Turf...
    I'd recommend a rate of at least 5 pounds per 1000 sq. ft.
    So that's 150 pounds, or (3) 50# bags.

    Ask for three bags of starter fert too...but don't apply that until just after you start seeing some seed germination, for best results !
  8. Mr. Force® Billy Goat Industries

    Mr. Force® Billy Goat Industries LawnSite Senior Member
    Messages: 511

    I've got hand it to Marcos. His is exactly correct on when to overseed. So many people try to accomplish more than one thing at a time when it isn't necessary.
  9. captn

    captn LawnSite Member
    Messages: 115

    So I called Lesco. They have a store right down the street.

    They said they have 2 mixes that are most popular here in northern IL.

    They both have KBG blend and Ryegrass. One is 60%-40% the other is 70%-30%.

    I've seen Rye Grass lawns and it is not pretty. And is there anyone out there that can really see the difference between 30% and 40% Rye blend in a lawn?????? Really? :confused:
  10. Marcos

    Marcos LawnSite Gold Member
    Messages: 3,720

    Wow...that IS alot of rye !

    I thought you said your lawn was mostly "tall fescue, with a little bit of bluegrass in it" ?!?

    I can't BELIEVE they wouldn't carry SOMETHING with a majority of fescue in it !

    Maybe it'd be wise to cut out 1 or 2 saucer-sized "sod samples" of what you've got in your lawn...complete with soil... put them in 'double-bagged' moist paper sack, and haul them over to the Lesco for an I.D. check !

    (When you get home you can just "stamp" them back into the lawn and water them...they'll grow back!)

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