Pac. NW lawn renovation...

Discussion in 'Homeowner Assistance Forum' started by Dellinger327, Sep 23, 2013.

  1. Dellinger327

    Dellinger327 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 8

    Ok, so plug aeration it will be.

    Going back to my original post... I'm trying to renovate the lawn without killing off everything with a chemical and tilling it up and re-seeding. I'm trying to renovate what is existing, now that I have some time to focus on it. That's ultimately what I'm trying to accomplish.

    So... that was the meaning of the What should I focus on 1st. I assumed it was the moss, since it was probably hindering any feeding of the existing grass, it was slowly killing the grass, and any efforts to over seed would have been fruitless with its existence.

    There will be a sprinkler system installed before next spring, so my efforts shouldn't be entirely in vain.

    I'm trying to do the right thing here and in my limited knowledge of 'lawn care', I came here.
  2. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,082

    I would scrape up the moss, then plug aerate(really chopping the ground in areas that have little grass), then seed...
    Remember your climate is very different from mine so the "Timing" needs to be addressed by wise local individuals... PLUS you'll be messing around with it again after the put in irrigation... Compost next Spring when everything starts growing again and work on Soil Structure with favorable watering techniques...
  3. Dellinger327

    Dellinger327 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 8

    So, I got the soil analysis back...

    Soil Texture: Medium (loam)
    PH- 5.4
    Organic Matter- 9.8
    Phosphorus- 25
    Potassium- 269
    Magnesium- 147
    Calcium- 1689
    K to Mg Ratio: .5
    Sodium Base Saturation %- 1.4
    Caution Exchange Capacity- 13

    Turf Revolution did the analysis. All #'s above in PPM.

    Noted problems by analysis:
    PH (low)
    Sodium (high)
    Potassium-Magnesium Imbalance

    I don't get why sodium is high? The immediate lawn is 500 yards from a road. My drive is asphalt and I do have quite a few cement walkways. How do I correct high sodium?

    I've already applied lime @ 60lbs. per 5,000 squ. ft.

    I suppose I need a 0-0-X fertilizer to help with the K-Mg imbalance?
  4. Ben Bowen

    Ben Bowen LawnSite Bronze Member
    from PNW
    Messages: 1,181

    Hmmm- I thought 0%-5% potassium was considered "normal". But I am not a turf guru.

    I have, however, rehabilitated a bunch of lawns in the PNW. You are pretty much doing it right though. Kill the moss, remove most of the moss, prevent moss with lime, overseed perennial rye, fertilize.

    You need to seed really soon- we are running out of warm weather! The JB seed available at HD is a good choice, and probably the most economical available to you.

    If you decide to go all out next spring, check out RTF at Kuenzi Nursery. It's a fescue that is far superior to rye for the PNW. It will cost more up front, but uses much less water and fertilizer. It tolerates low ph and out competes weeds better- even POA.

    Feel free to DM with any landscaping Q's. I am based in PDX.
    Posted via Mobile Device
  5. Dellinger327

    Dellinger327 LawnSite Member
    Messages: 8

    headz- thanks for the reply. Good to hear from someone in the area.

    I'm not overseeding this fall. You know that bad windstorm we had a few weekends ago? Well, my internet was just restored... so I think I missed the window. I'm afraid frost will be here before the grass is established.

    I'm at about 1,000ft. and I have seen frost on my vehicles for the past few mornings.

    Anyway... I did pick up a two bags of the JB seed. But I will keep the RTF at the mentioned nursery in mind.

  6. Smallaxe

    Smallaxe LawnSite Fanatic
    Messages: 10,082

    If your soil actually freezes you could Dormant Seed accordingly...

    Yes, it is good to have someone from your climate to talk with... :)

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