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Discussion in '<a href=http://www.lawnsite.com/buttons/jump.php?i' started by vipermanz, Jul 29, 2002.
does anyone have tips on achieving a high gloss finish after a piece is done being fabbed??
I worked in a bodyshop as a painter for seven years. Check your yellow pages for an automotive paint store. You can get by with a paint gun from Sears if you don't have access to a top of the line. Get all your paint supplies from the same jober and he should be able to steer you right on what you will need.
Prep is very important. Your metal need to be CLEAN. You need a good primer. You'll need to let the primer dry and sand it. A good acrylic enamel will give you a good gloss. Use a high gloss hardener, it's worth the money. He will have chip books so you can select any color you can imagine.
Like anything else it takes a little practice. Play with the adjustments on the gun. There are two. One is for air the other is for material. Read the manuel for the paintgun. For a regular gun about 30lbs air at the gun is a good place to start. If you are using an HVLP, (High Volume Low Pressure) you use less, around 10 to 15 lbs. Mix your paint exactly to manufacturers specs on the can. If the paint is looking dry, you need to put it on a little heavier. Don't be afraid to lay it on. But of course there is a fine line between running it off on the floor. I like to set the gun fo maximum material with a fan about eight to ten inches. Hold the gun four to six inches away from the work. To far and you will have dry paint.
Good luck and if you have more q's just ask.
A couple more things. Keep the gun moving past the end of whatever you are painting. Stop even for a half second over your work and you will have runs.
Make very sure there are no open flames nearby such as pilot lights to waterheaters etc.
And finally, WEAR A MASK! The new stuff can be LEATHAL as in DEADLY! You don't want that stuff in your lungs. Wear long sleeves and pants and tape your cuffs closed. Also wear a hat unless you want blue hair. Goggles are also a good choice.
i always use mineral spirits to clean, is there another option??
The main thing when using quality automotive paints is that all the materials are compatible. I don't know for sure, but I wouldn't use mineral spirits. Your paint jober will have the stuff to use and it's not real expensive. Something like pre-clean or final clean. It is excellent for removing grease and oil. You can even use the same brand material and it's not necessiarily compatible with each other because there are different kinds of paint. If you go to a shop that deals exclusively in automotive paint the jober can steer you right. I'd stay away from automotive parts stores that also sell paint, unless they have a guy that really knows his stuff. Good luck.
I airspray rustoleum thinned with mineral spirits onto my trailers. Nice and shiny and tuff too.