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paver hammers?

steveair

LawnSite Bronze Member
Location
morristown, nj
Ok, been pretty quiet here for the last days so figured I'd ask a simple question.

What are you using for mallets on your paver jobs?

I prefer deadheads over rubber mallets and steel mallets. Been buying estwings, as they seem to hold up the best. They have a wood handle version (think 2 lbs) and a plastic head/handle (one piece construction) that I use to use, but found the wood hand version holds up just as long and is half the price.

Also, anyone have the 'paver persuader' from probst. Been a few jobs where it would of come in handy, but I hate to see the price on the thing. Looks handy to use on both pavers, and also for walloping wall block down to level for cap. I saw a plastic 'deadhead', long handled 8 lb sledge the other day that looked like it would of done the same thing, and it was only 15 bucks. Should of bought it just to try it out I guess.

steveair
 

Lanelle

LawnSite Bronze Member
Location
No.VA, zone 7
What type of pavers are we talking about here--interlocking concrete or clay/brick pavers? Not much mallet work for the interlocking concrete ones. In fact industry experts recommend not using mallet setting because it can create such a tight fit that the flexibility of the interlock is lost.
 
OP
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steveair

LawnSite Bronze Member
Location
morristown, nj
Lanelle, concrete pavers.

As for what the experts say, I'll say this.

Any paver job I do, there are always 1 or 2 pavers/spots that are a little high/low after compaction. Now, if you think I am going to pull one paver out and take sand out from under it, then reset it instead of just wacking it a few times to level it out, the experts are nuts.

Also, I guess the mallet is needed for spots that the compactor just doesn't get, like against walls/steps, or in areas that a compactor can't be used, like in stair treads and what not.

steveair

 

Stonehenge

LawnSite Bronze Member
Location
Midwest
If I have to tamp inidividual pavers, I use a 8"x8" hand tamper. I do have uses for mallets, and use the rubber headed ones. Not fond of the 'persuader' - if you watch the Probst video, you can see it leaving black scuff marks on the faces of the pavers. If you want to tap the sides of the brick, a steel toe works great!
 

paul

Lawnsite Addict
Location
Chicago,Ill.
We got rid of our rubber hammer a long time ago, we do use a steel spade to straighten out a line of brick every now and then but hammers no!
 

cuttingedgeland

LawnSite Member
Location
New Jersey
We use an 18" heavy duty Tire Hammer which you can find in Gemplers catalog. It has a replaceable rubber head on one end and metal on the other side which adds some weight to it.
 

stoneseller

LawnSite Member
Location
MD Z7
Try rawhide mallets. They are heavier than rubber mallets, about 4 lbs IIRC, and the rawhide striking ends are replacable. All my big paver customers buy them like crazy.
 

neighborguy

LawnSite Member
I just saw something on DIY Network show called Cool Tools. They highlighted a set of rubber hammer head covers that essentially convert any standard hammer into a rubber mallet by use of a head that fits over the hammer head. The product is called MalletHead. It is relatively inexpensive for a set of three different hardnesses. Just curious if anyone has tried it or not. I have used my fair share of normal rubber mallets and like everyone else is scared of the Probst Persuader pricing.
 

Critical Care

LawnSite Bronze Member
Location
Central Oregon
Hmm... Anyone use the Halder Simplex mallets? I picked one up with red (hard) and black (medium hard) inserts but haven't had a chance to use it, or hit anyone with it.
 
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